Primary Clutch Sticking

TPredator · Nov 15, 2009

Sled: 05 900 King Cat Early build, no engine mods

Issue: Last season I was making a hard turn and laid the sled on its side, but the gas was still at high RPMs when BOOM the belt exploded. The clutch was stuck engaged and I couldn't get another belt on. I used some brake cleaner and got it to disengaged.

Every time I go out and ride I have to rev the engine to 5000 RPM to get the primary clutch to engage. Once it engages, it becomes stuck and the engine dies. To get it going again I have to pull start it and have the sled roll forward as I start it. 100% of the time this lets the clutch loose and I can ride mostly normal all day.

Sometimes going down a steep hill and I do not have the engine up to RPMs the clutch will get stuck and die in mid motion.

Question: What do you think is the issue with the clutch and how should I remedy it?

mtn mike on boost · Nov 15, 2009

bad roller in spider or bad primary weight?
that will cause the weight to stick and keep you "in gear"

Pedersen · Nov 15, 2009

Stuck primary

A couple of years ago I was sidehilling in a tight spot, with very low speed, lost my balance and fell of sled. The sled slided against a rock while engine was at idle, not hard but hard enough to push the bellypan into the primary. Had the same problems you have. Had a spare primary, but wanted to find out where the problem was, so tried to change one by one piece. problem solved when the stationary sheeve was replaced. Guess it was bent enough to make the movable sheeve or the spider to get stuck, but not enough to see with my eyes.

corncrackerjimmy · Nov 15, 2009

The bushing on the moveable sheave sometimes gets corrosion on it. Take the spider off and clean the shaft and the bushing with fine emery cloth.

m_beeson · Nov 15, 2009

I know the 04's had a weak spider gear. It was prone to cracking. From what I have heard, it also took out the movable sheve posts with it.

Check for cracks, you may be getting some strange flexing going on.

An other thing that comes to mind is the movable sheve race may have some belt residue stuck in it and causing it to bind.

*One thing is for sure, I wouldn't run it up while standing over it with the belt cover off...

Perk · Nov 17, 2009

Your spider is probobly cracked. Look at where the spider threads onto the shaft, you will see cracks around the base. The moveable sheave cannot return to open the clutch when rpm's drop. Even if your spider is not cracked, I'd say there is something going on with your clearances between the spider and the towers, It is binding effectively keeping your sled stuck in gear. I'm betting your starter rope is getting very stretched by now if you are starting it with it stuck in gear. Also, this is putting a lot of stress on the recoil assy when you pull it over in the "stuck" situation.

This is a very common failure on this sled. Personally, I'd just buy a new primary and be done with it.... at least, that is what I did last year.

Good luck to you, and for those that have not had this happen on your old king, it likely will at some point.

Cheers!
Chris

spomey · Nov 17, 2009

good luck sounds like a broken spider - you can get a new clutch for under $300 and a few places on lilne.

another thing to check is if your flyweight bushings are so bad that the weights are hanging up in the spider, you will see wear grooves from the tips of the weights.

spomey

Rixster · Nov 17, 2009

Yeah, broken spider, I have one just like it if you need another broken one. Mine was doing the EXACT same thing.

rcditchpickle · Nov 18, 2009

x2 x2 x2
I have spent a lot of time on this primary clutch and have found all of this to be true. save your time and frustrations, Its time for a new clutch.

TPredator · Nov 22, 2009

OK - I am going to take a look today to see if the spider is cracked. If this is the case..

Register said:
Yeah, broken spider, I have one just like it if you need another broken one. Mine was doing the EXACT same thing.

How much would you want for it?

Pedersen said:
A couple of years ago I was sidehilling in a tight spot, with very low speed, lost my balance and fell of sled. The sled slided against a rock while engine was at idle, not hard but hard enough to push the bellypan into the primary. Had the same problems you have. Had a spare primary, but wanted to find out where the problem was, so tried to change one by one piece. problem solved when the stationary sheeve was replaced. Guess it was bent enough to make the movable sheeve or the spider to get stuck, but not enough to see with my eyes.

I have not taken a clutch a part before. I have the bolt puller for this clutch, but would love a litte guidance in how to take it all apart. I am planning on removing it today.

spomey · Nov 22, 2009

mind you I have not done this myself but I wish I would have last time. look on the end of the puller you bought, is there an indent for a steel ball say 1/4 in diameter? if you put one in then the puller it will alighn all the forces you generate straight down the puller. I didnt do this and literally I bent my puller (arctic cat brand) and noodled the darn thing, when I had to remove it it was so bent it rolled all the threads and I had to use a tap to chase them. total PITA>>>>>>>>>... really think befor you put alot of force into it.

another trick is to fill the cavity with grease and use "hydraulics" to help push off the clutch, dont know if it helps. I do it and it sure gives you some good cleanup time!

and still another tick is to "load" the clutch using the puller then pour boiling water on it and it will help release it. havent done it, just heard about it.

Another tick is to load the puller good and tight then give the end of the puller a decent "smack" with a hammer to help "shock" it off. be very careful here many people say dont do it as all kinds of bad things can happen to the crank, but the only realistic problem that I have heard of is that you can knock the magnets off the fly wheel. this is how I usually wind up removing every clutch?

good luck

spomey

TPredator · Dec 7, 2009

So i finally got a big *** ratchet to use with my puller. I noticed something that that every revolution at a secific spot it was much more difficult to turn the clutch. Do you think something internlly to the morter is bent and if so do you think this is a big issue.

On the flip side, I put a crap load of force into the ratchet, but the clutch will STILL not come off. Do i just put focre on the puller until the clutch pops off? I am worried about bending something else.

Rixster · Dec 7, 2009

Tip the sled on it side. fill the clutch bolt hole with water. Wrap the puller threads with teflon tape. then pu the puller in and the clutch SHOULD come off. The water creates hydraulic pressure pops it off. I have had to use this trick 3 times and it works every time. Also make sure you put some grease on the end of the puller to help it turn against the crank shaft.

TPredator · Dec 8, 2009

Rixster said:
Tip the sled on it side. fill the clutch bolt hole with water. Wrap the puller threads with teflon tape. then pu the puller in and the clutch SHOULD come off. The water creates hydraulic pressure pops it off. I have had to use this trick 3 times and it works every time. Also make sure you put some grease on the end of the puller to help it turn against the crank shaft.

DO you think I could have already bent the crank shaft? It is 8 degrees right now so I will have to wait to get a propane heater to try that trick!

m_beeson · Dec 8, 2009

TPredator said:
DO you think I could have already bent the crank shaft? It is 8 degrees right now so I will have to wait to get a propane heater to try that trick!

Once you get the clutch off, you can use a dial indicator to check your crank runout. Attach the base to the engine block (this way you will get a true reading), then remove the spark plugs,and pull the engine over while watching the dial indicator. This will tell you if your crank is true or not.

gibsonman · Dec 8, 2009

TPredator said:
So i finally got a big *** ratchet to use with my puller. I noticed something that that every revolution at a secific spot it was much more difficult to turn the clutch.

More than likely you are just hitting compression which is making it harder to turn the engine. You could pull the plugs out then rotate it and see if your hard spot is gone.

When I pull clutches off I put a decent amount of force into the puller then tap the puller head with a hammer and the clutch usually pops off. You don't want to hit real hard, I would say about the force of driving a nail into a board. I haven't had to use either the water or grease methods yet.

Good luck

scoop · Dec 9, 2009

clutch stuck

you said its 8 degrees, perfect time to use the boiling water trick. use lots of water and pour it over the center of the inner sheeve, and over the top of the inner sheeve, get it as hot as you can with the water, do this with lots of pressure already on the puller, then give it a tap with a hammer and it will come off usually. It seems I have to do this every time!

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Primary Clutch Sticking

TPredator

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mtn mike on boost

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Pedersen

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corncrackerjimmy

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m_beeson

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Perk

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spomey

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Rixster

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rcditchpickle

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TPredator

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spomey

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