Broken T-Flex motion.

broken t-flex motion

this is what i,ve been holding back from buying myself one, it justs looks to me that this would be a week spot.I am not an engineer,but I do some heavy welding around my asphalt plant...

Im not at all shying away, ive only heard of 2 issues with this breaking

Before seeing the picture with the red circles, I was looking over my T-motion and to me, those are the two spots that seemed most likely to fail. Either add some weld to the inside of the supports or throw some gussets on the open sides of the supports, OR someone could create a sweet billet full replacement piece (I'd buy it!). That part of the suspension looks like it could take some stress and the stock welds are THIN!

Sunvang said:

Yes I hate my Polaris and im dying to buy a XM.

Or let me think, not!

http://youtu.be/Xmw-bj7FaRE

Click to expand...

Judging by the way you ride, crashing into trees and all the rocks you had to run into in that video. It won't be long and you will have to buy a new sled

Here is a pic of danno2ak57's rear skid failure, looks like the similar issue as the previous one.

sh*t, this has got me nervous

A riding buddy had the same thing happen to him last week.... But to BRP's defense he hit a big rock pretty fast so......

I would think the lower arm section must be binding on the cross shaft instead of rotating.
If it rotates properly the only stress should be compression.
If it does not rotate properly then it will have flex stress at the cross shaft.

Bill

SUMMITREV said:

Where you guys riding in dirt? Haha to hit hard enough to do that definitely did not get any cushion from snow. I have hit some thing super hard. Bashed a stump last year so hard my sled almost endowed when the track hit. Poked a hole all the way threw my track almost ripping it completely all the way (track was garbage) all I broke was bent front shock shaft a little and bent lower mounting bolt up pretty good.

Click to expand...

LOL. Had 2'-3' of snow, but he did hit solid dirt on the creek bank, under a pretty thin snow cover.

Here's a couple of pics. The dirt at the bottom left was point of impact. The other pic, I'm standing at the creek, my buddy is where he landed, and his sled is the one in the distance still running.

Yup, it hurt and still does. It was six days before docs finally figured out it was dislocated and had to put it back in. He had to go for some sort of scan yesterday, they still think something is amiss, and he isn't improving much.

Quote for damages was $2200 with labor. Drive shaft was bent as well. Actually lower then we were guessing.

in addition to beefing up the pivot arm structurally, after looking at the rear suspension parts schematic on Ski-Doo's website, it seems that we should definitely be making sure anything w/ a zirk fitting has ample grease.

I wonder if in the cases where the pivot arm uprights broke off the sleeve if the sleeve for some reason seized on the inner tube?

I'm going to order an extra pivot arm and work with my buddy (welder/fabricator) to reinforce it in the appropriate locations.

happened to me too

i started a new thread before seeing this one. my bad, but here are some pics of mine failing. same thing just a bumpy trail. 700kms on my sled tho

Hello, I have installed a T Motion kit in my 04` Rev Summit X I bought the kit and got a good deal on a set of 08` rails and after buying some components I didn`t have cause I wasn`t starting out with an xp skid, anyway got it all in and close to ready to ride and I have read and kept track of this Thread.

So I decided to add some reinforcement and beef to this back lower scissor mechanism that you all have been breaking so before I even rode the sled I took the lower scissor piece out and added some reiforcement pieces and welded to it.

I first took a floppy disc 80grit grinding wheel and slightly ground down the weld where I have seen in your pic where it been breakin this was just so the added pieces would set more tight agianst the piece I purchased 2 ft of 1/2x1/8 inch flatbar and made 4 pieces to add and weld to the lower scissor part I also drilled 3 holes in each piece to add some plug welds along with other welding, I pit the pieces on the part and extended them down lower than the welds that have been breaking I clamped the pieces on and welded the bottom and the top with some beads and spot weld up the sides inside towards the center of the triangle and to the outer part where the metal lips over probably should of turned the welder down a bit here cause it welded in but also burned some notches out of the outer bent over lip then I plug welded the holes adding 4 pieces total, this should be plenty of reinforcement and hope it doesn`t break, Went out saturday and worked great man this skid addition to my Rev is a huge difference over the stock skid, along with I narrowed my frontend to 35.5 Handled awesome now!!

Here is the part after I sanded the paint off the outer triangular parts and smoothed the lower welds


Here are the flatbar pieces I made I also drilled 3holes down the center of them before welding them on.


Here it after I welded everything together, took my time so I didn`t keep alot of heat in it. did burn some notchs in the outer part but can`t see it when it mostly covered in snow


Here it is all done and painted. Tried to get some good welding all around and below and up the sides of where the factory weld are making it stronger the original welds are still there just leveled off a bit so the added pieces set more flat against so I didn`t have a bunch of gaps to fill


Hope this help anyone out, there are may ways to strengthen this part up and for what I had laying around this was the easiest I came up with to what I already had.


Good Luck, Wildcard

wildcard28 said:

Hello, I have installed a T Motion kit in my 04` Rev Summit X I bought the kit and got a good deal on a set of 08` rails and after buying some components I didn`t have cause I wasn`t starting out with an xp skid, anyway got it all in and close to ready to ride and I have read and kept track of this Thread.

So I decided to add some reinforcement and beef to this back lower scissor mechanism that you all have been breaking so before I even rode the sled I took the lower scissor piece out and added some reiforcement pieces and welded to it.

I first took a floppy disc 80grit grinding wheel and slightly ground down the weld where I have seen in your pic where it been breakin this was just so the added pieces would set more tight agianst the piece I purchased 2 ft of 1/2x1/8 inch flatbar and made 4 pieces to add and weld to the lower scissor part I also drilled 3 holes in each piece to add some plug welds along with other welding, I pit the pieces on the part and extended them down lower than the welds that have been breaking I clamped the pieces on and welded the bottom and the top with some beads and spot weld up the sides inside towards the center of the triangle and to the outer part where the metal lips over probably should of turned the welder down a bit here cause it welded in but also burned some notches out of the outer bent over lip then I plug welded the holes adding 4 pieces total, this should be plenty of reinforcement and hope it doesn`t break, Went out saturday and worked great man this skid addition to my Rev is a huge difference over the stock skid, along with I narrowed my frontend to 35.5 Handled awesome now!!

Here is the part after I sanded the paint off the outer triangular parts and smoothed the lower welds

Here are the flatbar pieces I made I also drilled 3holes down the center of them before welding them on.

Here it after I welded everything together, took my time so I didn`t keep alot of heat in it. did burn some notchs in the outer part but can`t see it when it mostly covered in snow

Here it is all done and painted. Tried to get some good welding all around and below and up the sides of where the factory weld are making it stronger the original welds are still there just leveled off a bit so the added pieces set more flat against so I didn`t have a bunch of gaps to fill

Hope this help anyone out, there are may ways to strengthen this part up and for what I had laying around this was the easiest I came up with to what I already had.


Good Luck, Wildcard

Click to expand...

Not to be a downer, but apparently...., the T-motion will not work in an 08 skid according to others who have tried. In order to transplant it effectively the 2010 or newer skid was needed. There is a detailed thread with specifics over on dootalk in the XP/XM summit section which is titled "Debate the T-motion here Respectfully Please". I'll be interested to hear your feedback if you've had seat time on it already with the 08 skid.

doospunk said:

Not to be a downer, but apparently...., the T-motion will not work in an 08 skid according to others who have tried. In order to transplant it effectively the 2010 or newer skid was needed. There is a detailed thread with specifics over on dootalk in the XP/XM summit section which is titled "Debate the T-motion here Respectfully Please". I'll be interested to hear your feedback if you've had seat time on it already with the 08 skid.

Click to expand...

Your not being a downer to me sorry if your sceptic but I can walk outside right now and look at my 04 Rev with a Tmotion kit installed in 08 rails reason why is I got a great deal on ebay for the rails for $60 shipped The day after I ordered the Tmo kit I was going to install it in my 04 Rev rails and IT would of and can work in those, I had all the measureing set up to do it. but after getting such a good deal on the rails I went an easier route. after I got the kit in I had to purchase about $80 in extra components that I didn`t have cause I wasn`t starting with a complete xp skid, The Rev shocks even transfered over to the tmo kit along with a quite a few other parts, cause the rev and xp summits have the same length shocks up to 2012 Not exactly sure of the 2013 but I would bet they are the same also since other than a summit which it the model offered with a s36 handlin package other xp models still had the wider stance and longer front shocks and shorter rear skid shock not needing the longer shock upgrade etc.. If you already have an xp sled then your set you don`t need the extra components I had to purchase cause they are all on your skid already!!

If you actually look in a skidoo accessories catalog shows the t motion kit for 08` up skids thats what it is offered for. The Tmotion kit works great in an 08` up skid cause I have done it and have had it in the sled for 3 weeks now and went out riding with it last saturday it works great. 2010 they offered a longer front skid shock upgrade and that is cause of the s36 handling package it actualy raised the front of the sled abit so to balance It out they offered a longer front skid shock.
some would just relocate the lower mounting position of the shock to correct this also just had to make sure the front arm would bottom out on the rails before it bottomed the shock which would damage the shock over time.

Here check out my Rebuild thread here on Snowest and check it out I have a probably to long but detailed write up of what I did and what parts swapped from my Rev to the Tmo kit and all the parts I had to purchase, all in all its the Best Mod I have ever done to this sled and its has Alot of mods.

Here is my detail Thread on how it does work!

http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=324220

Trust me I had done a Ton of research before I ordered the kit and started this mod and it was all worth it. I have been strugglin with a few handleing characterstics of this sled and riding it last saturday with the Tmo all those trouble are pretty much gone. read my thread hope you enjoy it.

Wildcard

Notice the xp rails & Tmo in the rear.

The way I see it ,correct me if I am wrong (and I am sure someone will), there is 2 problems here .The first is that when you are going over rough terrain the rails flexxing up and down in opposite directions at the same time is causing a bind or squeeze point on the bolted on part , limiting the amount of rotation .2ndly At the same time you have the ball and joint part may be maxxed out to one side or the other pulling agressively on the welds (particulary the front side )and due to the binding in the lower part it is causing it to crack and eventually break .
On my 12 there is actually a 1-3/4 in. of welded material on each of the 4 corners (where the tm is breaking ) with the prying action on top being nearly 4 inches wide . On my boys 13 , you have only 1-1/4 in. of weld in the same 4 spots with the prying action being centered , not to mention that when the moveing part of the tm maxxes out , it is like takeing a hammer and beating on the welds . This part is probably half as strong on the 13 as the 12 and probably takeing 3 times the abuse from the centered pivot point .
IMO The next potencial spot of failure will be the tops of the bolt holes breaking out where the bolt for the ball joint is bolted on . Also , looking at one tore appart now , the shaft that the bolt on the rails goes through only appears to be ever so slightly longer than the part with the greese fitting on -when it is tightened down , I'm not so sure that there i enough room for movement , this is probably where the squeeking that I have heard about is comeing from .
Just my .02

One other thing that could be a contributing factor here is the 1 3/8 x 3/8 rod that they are using as a upword stop is only welded on one side -( and less than half of that one side is welded ) . That does not tie the 2 halfs together very well , making each half even more vulnerable to breakage .IMO

http://www.pesidaho.com/shop/skidoo-zmotion-rear-link
Just bought one, deadly strong, two birds & one stone.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk