in need of help with 99 rmk 700

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tonybalony

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Jan 11, 2008

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• Jan 12, 2013

• #1

i have 700 that ran great as a 136,when i converted to 151 it developed a problem.only thing diff was i didn't put a taillight on it yet.
it fires up cold great, always,but riding down the trail it feels like it shuts off,but will idle fine.if i let it idle-it will take off great for 30 seconds then do it again.
i cleaned water out of the tank the first time this happened-had tank all apart checked in tank filter(screen),line,vent,new inline filter,dismantled pump-no crap in it.
unplugged temp sender-unplugged accs lines,no change.
i,m gonna check stator resistance values and install a taillight-anything else to look for?thanks in advance!i've learned a ton on here and appreciate it.

 

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flyguy_17

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Jun 7, 2008

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• Jan 13, 2013

• #2

I believe an unplugged temp sensor is the same as if its reading over-temp and puts it in "limp mode"... I think you have to jumper the sensor wires to test...they sell one @ startinglineproducts.com, some guys on here might have better insight than me so good luck

 

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tonybalony

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• Jan 13, 2013

• #3

thanks,the slp one seems to be 2000+ ,i better figure out how to check temp sensor.

 

vwsprite

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mazama, wa

• Jan 13, 2013

• #4

the temp sensor in the 99 only turned on the light, what do your plugs say? sounds like bad fuel or clogged main, that water might be in the carbs

 

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tonybalony

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• Jan 14, 2013

• #5

carbs have been off about a hundred times,pilot,main,needle and seat all are clean-thanks for info on temp sensor

 

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sykosledhead

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Nov 26, 2007

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Dayton, WY

• Mar 8, 2013

• #6

Paddle clearance

This sounds crazy but I do know if the clearance of your paddle is too little, it will feel like you hit the brakes. I had this happen to me. I had to R&D the chaincase to increase clearance.

syko

 

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FEZ

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Minnesota

• Mar 9, 2013

• #7

stator

 

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retiredpop

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• Mar 9, 2013

• #8

Problem with fuel pump impulse line.

 

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tonybalony

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• Feb 13, 2019

• #9

still fighting with the 700,rebuilt fuel pump,went thru clutches-prim needed weight bushings and pins,new spring.still lays down after riding for a bit,but idling is affected,it will clean up after a bit(30 secs?)then run great.float bowls emptying out,then refilled?primary clutch hanging up,then releasing?what does an ACCS act like when it goes bad?thanks for help and patience!

 

Last edited: Feb 13, 2019

05rmksteve

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• Feb 14, 2019

• #10

I'm kind of having the same issue with a 99 rmk 700. Runs great for a few minutes then acts like it's dropping a cylinder. I've cleaned carbs, checked reeds, changed stator, changed cdi/coil, new plugs, fresh gas, by passed accs and primer still same issue.

 

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tonybalony

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• Feb 23, 2019

• #11

how did u bypass accs?-rejet?

 

05rmksteve

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• Feb 23, 2019

• #12

Plugged the port on the mag side carb. The one that goes to the bottom port on the accs valve. Then remove the hoses at the t. Left the 2 lines that come from each side of the carb hooked to the t. Did that to both carbs the ports are vents so they shouldn't be plugged.
If you run it like this for a period of time than yes you should rejet. But running the accs bypassed just for testing I wouldn't worry about rejeting.

 

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rdr99

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helena, mt

• Feb 27, 2019

• #13

Gas tank venting properly?

 

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zilla

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• Feb 28, 2019

• #14

kill switch ? lol

 

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jim

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Boise

• Mar 11, 2019

• #15

Sounds like overheating limp mode. Check to see if the thermostat is opening...that era used cheap thermostats that easily failed. I rebuilt my buddies 2003 800 and when we started it up, could not get the coolant to flow. We figured it was an air lock. Turned out it was a stuck/bad thermostat. This could explain why it limps until it cools back down.

Did you drain the coolant for any reason? Air lock or bubble?

Also, sometimes to water pump belt will fail...and there is no coolant flow...same outcome.

Check the tunnel and make sure the coolant is flowing...it should be warm through the tunnel coolers. And check the head...if the coolant isn't flowing, the head get really hot.

 

frntflp

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• May 7, 2019

• #16

Sounds like my 98 700. Idled fine, bogged out at speed after a short distance and somewhat random. Eventually found that one of the float pins had worn its hole in the float support post, oblong or out of round. This caused the pin to sit offset, and the float at an angle such that it couldn't move up and down correctly. In my case, float didn't drop to allow enough fuel when under power. Took a while to figure out, but after taking a carb from a fully running, same motor and putting into mine, problem found. Apparently Keihin carbs had a reputation for this issue. New/used carb and good to go.

 

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retiredpop

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• May 7, 2019

• #17

Yeah, Keihin carbs were noted for wear issues after a lot of use. Not one of Polaris' best ideas to use them instead of Mikunis.