Boondocker Turbo thread

VOHK · Nov 28, 2007

Felt it would be advantagous to have a useful thread for BD TM10/TM8 customers to communicate. As we encounter install or tuning challenges, or just plain breakthroughs we will all be serverd best by posting our findings.

Air........if you don't have it make it!

911 · Nov 29, 2007

This would be a good to get going. Has anyone recieved there kits yet? I was told that they were going to start shipping them this week.

speeddemon · Nov 29, 2007

kits

911 said:
This would be a good to get going. Has anyone recieved there kits yet? I was told that they were going to start shipping them this week.

there are several M8 and M1000 kits out already this season and installed sounds like they run and work great . good luck everyone
mike

mtn mike on boost · Nov 29, 2007

just wanted to turn the tables on you bd guys, and jump in here praising the new aerocharger. HA! now i feel better

speeddemon · Nov 29, 2007

mtn mike on boost said:
just wanted to turn the tables on you bd guys, and jump in here praising the new aerocharger. HA! now i feel better

SOOOOOOOOO SAD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! LMFAO !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! J/K mike
mike

Hairy Mark · Nov 29, 2007

mtn mike on boost said:
just wanted to turn the tables on you bd guys, and jump in here praising the new aerocharger. HA! now i feel better

you will feel better until you come up against one on the hill lol.

mt st helens · Nov 29, 2007

Is anyone making a innercooler upgrade for us old BD guys. To do it through BD is ALOT of money.

HobDog · Nov 29, 2007

I just got my tm8 up and running today. I used the old boondocker turbo setup from last year, but the boondockerbox is the new program which could make it tricky to get tuned since I am having to start from scratch. I am having electrical issues I think. Looking for some help. I had the old wiring harness and box that used the rectifier and compacitor. I ended up wiring it this way. I took power off of the black red wire; that the current boondocker kits take power for the new oil pump; for the secondary injectors, the egt's and the msd fuel pump. I origanaly also had my a\f ratio gauge on there to, but it was drawing so much that the egt's would not work. So I ran it today, and the egts quit working sortly after running some. The sled when just crusing seemed to cut in and out, and would not hold a consistant rpm around 5000 to 6000. When the boost came on it would pull real hard and clean, up to about 8 to 9 lbs. and then fall on its face like someone turned the sled off. No popping or blubering like lean or fat, just stoped pulling all together. Anyone have any insite to this. It seem eletrical to me, but may be the knock sensor is making it do this? I am going to check the nos plug tomorrow at idle to see if the secondary injectors are working. Are the secondary injectors that are running on the converted dc power not supposed to be dc power and need to go to the ac or what? Any comments would be great.

tm8 · Nov 29, 2007

Take your knock sensor out and ground it some where that may be your problem. I have heard that they are very sensitive and can cause trouble.

Sparkey · Nov 29, 2007

HobDog said:
I just got my tm8 up and running today. I used the old boondocker turbo setup from last year, but the boondockerbox is the new program which could make it tricky to get tuned since I am having to start from scratch. I am having electrical issues I think. Looking for some help. I had the old wiring harness and box that used the rectifier and compacitor. I ended up wiring it this way. I took power off of the black red wire; that the current boondocker kits take power for the new oil pump; for the secondary injectors, the egt's and the msd fuel pump. I origanaly also had my a\f ratio gauge on there to, but it was drawing so much that the egt's would not work. So I ran it today, and the egts quit working sortly after running some. The sled when just crusing seemed to cut in and out, and would not hold a consistant rpm around 5000 to 6000. When the boost came on it would pull real hard and clean, up to about 8 to 9 lbs. and then fall on its face like someone turned the sled off. No popping or blubering like lean or fat, just stoped pulling all together. Anyone have any insite to this. It seem eletrical to me, but may be the knock sensor is making it do this? I am going to check the nos plug tomorrow at idle to see if the secondary injectors are working. Are the secondary injectors that are running on the converted dc power not supposed to be dc power and need to go to the ac or what? Any comments would be great.

do not run your sled with out checking the nos button to make sure the 2nd inj come on. this is way way way inportant if they do not come on you will burn down, not a good way to start the year. sound like you do not have the new injectors working.

1.I have the same set up on my m7. Just got my box back reprogramed. the first ride it did the same thing as yours is doing i had to turn off in the box the control for the ex valve (EXV) and all so the (RPM) then it would run 10 lbs of boost but not feel clean. after talking with rocky jr at bd we decided that the fuel was bad and had lost octane and was having detination.

2. the votage off the cap and rec are to run the fuel pump and the oil pump if you have the new electric. The aux power plug that is by the key swiotch will run the box and your egts

what are you running on the cap and recifier.

Just my 2 cents hope it helps

Carl

D_EDGE · Nov 29, 2007

I had the same issue with mine cutting out in that rpm range too. I know it wasn't fuel becasue I drained the tank and filled with fresh 110. My aux injectors are working too. I don't think it would be a lean/rich spot because the power cuts off so quickly. Once it gets past that rpm range though it starts pulling again. So hopefully somebody has some info on this issue.

HobDog · Nov 30, 2007

Sparkey said:
do not run your sled with out checking the nos button to make sure the 2nd inj come on. this is way way way inportant if they do not come on you will burn down, not a good way to start the year. sound like you do not have the new injectors working.

1.I have the same set up on my m7. Just got my box back reprogramed. the first ride it did the same thing as yours is doing i had to turn off in the box the control for the ex valve (EXV) and all so the (RPM) then it would run 10 lbs of boost but not feel clean. after talking with rocky jr at bd we decided that the fuel was bad and had lost octane and was having detination.

2. the votage off the cap and rec are to run the fuel pump and the oil pump if you have the new electric. The aux power plug that is by the key swiotch will run the box and your egts

what are you running on the cap and recifier.

Just my 2 cents hope it helps

Carl

My sled is a 07, so the converter (rectifier) is the silver box, I am not sure what year of sled you have, or if your sled converts ac to dc on it's own. I will check to see if the aux. injectors are working tommorow, that should tell some of the story. As for the knock sensor, I would hate to unplug it, that was one feature of the 800 that I was happy about coming from the 700. Not to mention I have two 800 running well right out of the box, so the knock sensor is not causing problems there, which tells me there is something else going on. I am suspecious of my fuel pump. I am still looking for a answer on the aux. power plug near the steering post. What are the plugs wire colors? I got this sled used, and a tether cord has been installed so there are no power plugs not used, just curious to get the correct one, I would assume I could tap into this for my aux. injectors.

tm8 · Nov 30, 2007

The turbo dose strange things to your knock sensor. It will give you greif.dont un plug it just take it out and ground it some where. I am not sure if this is your problem but it wouldnt hert to try it then you will know.

fastgas · Nov 30, 2007

hobdog - you need to call boondocker and figure out how to convert your wiring from an m7 to an m8 (a harness and diagram should be available). The rectifier and capacitor aren't used, use power from the red/black wire for fuel pump/oil pump, and the accessory plug is used for the aux. injectors.

Don't disconnect the det sensor on the M8's - it is your friend. If you get severe detonation, the engine light will flash (whatever the code is for det sensor) and the engine will go into a default mode (runs bad) until you restart the sled.

I believe an incorrect ExV (exhaust valve) setting was given out (85, it should be 140). For initial tuning I would turn it to OFF, then once fuel tuning is OK for full-throttle on boost, you can use it for part-throttle tuning. Its purpose is to add a little fuel to cover the lean-spot that can occur before the exhaust valves open (this isn't too bad on the '07 M8, the '08s are probably leaner and could need more fuel).

Jonce · Nov 30, 2007

Hairy Mark said:
you will feel better until you come up against one on the hill lol.

Those BD kits look nice. Maybe I will have to build another sled next year with a BD kit to compare. From what I hear, it sounds like they are working real well this year.

doughboy · Nov 30, 2007

tm8 said:
The turbo dose strange things to your knock sensor. It will give you greif.dont un plug it just take it out and ground it some where. I am not sure if this is your problem but it wouldnt hert to try it then you will know.

Dido..Take the knock sensor out of the motor but do not unplug it. Ground it to the bulkhead behind your wiring cover plate. I believe that the instuctions on the new kit tell you to do so.

HobDog · Nov 30, 2007

Thanks for the advice guys. I would have to be very convinced that the knock sensor is really messing things up in order to pull it off, like I said I have two that are done that run great with the knock sensor in them. Apperently I have other issues. I pulled it off the trailer this morning and fired it. It had a hard time starting, which it never does. After it started, it idled real rough, I thought I had stuck a piston the way it was acting. Eventually it died and would not start. I pulled the pipe to look through the y pipe to check the pistons, and thank god they looked fine!!! Tommorow I am going to reconnect the stock injectors plug to eliminate the boondocker box and see if it will run. I was going to check to see if the secondary injectors were working, but it would not run long enough to for me to check them. Anyone else have any other ideas that I am possibly missing?

Warrior67 · Dec 1, 2007

Throttle positioning sensor

VOHK · Dec 2, 2007

Having just finished my 14th BD turbo install I still have not found the easy button. I have several hundred miles on several different units and have managed to get along with the knock sensor but its tricky. I tic wrong either direction and 21 or worse 23, but it is possible. And is easier at sub 13 psi.

VOHK · Dec 2, 2007

Anyone try an internal stinger, sure quiets them down. The stock pipe seems to like around 6" of 2". Doesnt seem to effect performance. Tetsed 2 units, one with, one without, rode all day, other than quieter and a touch more responsive no real differance.

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