Water to air intercooler......... Closed loop

kingkat1150 · Dec 11, 2011

sno pro build

I will check my notes and check with my machinest and get back to you.

Cheers:face-icon-small-hap

Vertical-Extreme · Dec 12, 2011

awesome Idea!

Boyko · Dec 12, 2011

kingkat1150 said:
Sorry for the delay I just got a chance to post some pic's.

Wow

that is some fine work!

you set up a cnc for the pump?

spoon · Dec 12, 2011

billet pump

Come up with a cost for that pump and I am sure you would sell quite afew. I would take 2.

kingkat1150 · Dec 12, 2011

pump

Well I just talked to my mechinist and he said he will Email me a price so the more I buld the cheeper I can sell them for so I will post some costs in a day or so when I hear back.

Cheers

harf69 · Dec 12, 2011

Id take one

catmanm7 · Dec 12, 2011

Are these going to work on the m7, m8 and m1000. Are they all the same bolt pattern?

kingkat1150 · Dec 12, 2011

pump

The m7 has 2 little case nubs on each side of the oil pump that are not used for anything so a person would have to cut down the first one on the mag side closest to the oil pump. The m8 & 1000 have two motor mount studs on the mag side also but the pump will clear them but you may have too relocate the motor mount that just bolts on. :face-icon-small-hap

catmanm7 · Dec 13, 2011

If the price is right, I would take one. I hate electrical and dont want to wire up my bosch.

Vertical-Extreme · Dec 13, 2011

catmanm7 said:
If the price is right, I would take one. I hate electrical and dont want to wire up my bosch.

same here, my electric pump is working good, but if i could get rid of it for a Mec pump I would

rusty rider · Dec 13, 2011

kingkat1150 said:
The m7 has 2 little case nubs on each side of the oil pump that are not used for anything so a person would have to cut down the first one on the mag side closest to the oil pump. The m8 & 1000 have two motor mount studs on the mag side also but the pump will clear them but you may have too relocate the motor mount that just bolts on. :face-icon-small-hap

Any Idea how much this pump actually flows? Especially at wide open throttle. Like you said above a guy may have to put in a valve or orifice to slow it down a little.

kingkat1150 · Dec 13, 2011

pump

I hope to get some pricing soon so I can fill you all in. When I put this pump together I set up a drive shaft to run off
my dewalt 18V cordless drill and on high speed it shot out a solid stream 1/2 dia about 10 feet and washed down my posters on the wall :face-icon-small-hap. I know it was not a technical test but with that volume I think it will be fine for what we want it for.

Cheers

catmanm7 · Dec 13, 2011

How fast does the oil pump spin? Oil doesnt come gushing out when that is running, because I have mine oiling my turbo. Also, I am assuming the shaft has a small propeller on it to move the water? Maybe different sizes/ designs of the propellors may work?
And I think you may want a bigger cooler to help with heat transfer, it may not be the speed of the flow but surface area. It looks like your cooler is just a single run of aluminim pipe?
What size are the electric pump inlet and outlets?
What size are your inlet and outlets? 1/2"?

Let us know as soon as you get an answer, hopefully before some vendor uses your idea and marks it up...

kingkat1150 · Dec 13, 2011

pump

The pump is a direct drive to the oil pump. I have my oil pump running my turbo oil supply also so the pump drives at the stock RPM. As far as the flow and heat exchanger the one I use is to a 500 snopro so if it keeps a 500 engine cool it should work fine for the intercooler. I am going to install a valve to modulate the water flow until I find a temp I want to run and then install a flow orifice and yes they are 1/2". should work.

Cheers:tea:

rusty rider · Dec 13, 2011

catmanm7 said:
How fast does the oil pump spin? Oil doesnt come gushing out when that is running, because I have mine oiling my turbo. Also, I am assuming the shaft has a small propeller on it to move the water? Maybe different sizes/ designs of the propellors may work?
And I think you may want a bigger cooler to help with heat transfer, it may not be the speed of the flow but surface area. It looks like your cooler is just a single run of aluminim pipe?
What size are the electric pump inlet and outlets?
What size are your inlet and outlets? 1/2"?

Let us know as soon as you get an answer, hopefully before some vendor uses your idea and marks it up...

I work with hot water heat systems and on demand water heaters quite a bit, the key to good transfer of energy is piping that doesn't hold a large volume of water along with good pipe surface area. If I were to make a custom exchanger I would use 3/8 O.D. soft copper and make loops that go above track from front of tunnel all the way back to factory cooler. I would then t drill into the side of 1/2 L I.D. copper and braze all 3/8 loops into it. There would be a feed and return to exchanger. You would want enough loops so that the inside volume of the 3/8 O.D. soft copper combined would at least add up to the 1/2 L I.D. volume so not to constrict over all flow of the system. But I would jam as many loops as humanly possible in tunnel so the coolant or whatever you want to use will be as cold as possible going to inner-cooler . The reason I asked about flow amount is because with copper you can actually wear the pipe out from the inside if flow goes over 10ft per second. This usually happens in say like hotels if the water mains are undersized with a lot of water usage. Just my thoughts, take from it what you will.:face-icon-small-win

rusty rider · Dec 13, 2011

kingkat1150 said:
The pump is a direct drive to the oil pump. I have my oil pump running my turbo oil supply also so the pump drives at the stock RPM. As far as the flow and heat exchanger the one I use is to a 500 snopro so if it keeps a 500 engine cool it should work fine for the intercooler. I am going to install a valve to modulate the water flow until I find a temp I want to run and then install a flow orifice and yes they are 1/2". should work.

Cheers:tea:

All of these systems over all are only as good as their exchangers, transfer of energy is going to be key to cool charge temps. I would definitely gives yours a shot and just see how it works.:tea:

kingkat1150 · Dec 13, 2011

pumps

I to work with radiant heat and cooling through ground source and also do HVAC. I have been working with this set up and I totally agree with you about heat transfer. That being said I am working with parts mainly like the 500 sp tunnel cooler for cost if I want to produce these sleds and they do work quit well for this build. Time will tell just how well but I am sure I will be very pleased:face-icon-small-hap

Tonysnoo · Dec 13, 2011

kingkat1150 said:
I hope to get some pricing soon so I can fill you all in. When I put this pump together I set up a drive shaft to run off
my dewalt 18V cordless drill and on high speed it shot out a solid stream 1/2 dia about 10 feet and washed down my posters on the wall :face-icon-small-hap. I know it was not a technical test but with that volume I think it will be fine for what we want it for.

Cheers

A few years ago, I did some oil injection pump testing for my turbo with my drill. I also counted the teeth on the drive. I think it came out as a 2:1 ratio so your pumps should be spinning half of engine rpm.

rusty rider · Dec 13, 2011

kingkat1150 said:
I to work with radiant heat and cooling through ground source and also do HVAC. I have been working with this set up and I totally agree with you about heat transfer. That being said I am working with parts mainly like the 500 sp tunnel cooler for cost if I want to produce these sleds and they do work quit well for this build. Time will tell just how well but I am sure I will be very pleased:face-icon-small-hap

Keep us up to date on the build, and also on the custom water pumps:face-icon-small-coo

Ken Climb · Dec 14, 2011

Why are some peeps running the sleds cooling system through the water /air cooler rather the a separate/Divorced system?
The separate (closed loop), with a heat exchanger under your tunnel would cool your charged air much better, no?
I can't see it being a "too cold" issue?
Maybe to much fluctuation in charged temps for the fuel box to keep up?
Maybe more consistent temps with using your engine cooling system?
Doesn't make sense to me. The engine coolant runs pretty damm hot to be cooling your charged air, no?

Water to air intercooler......... Closed loop

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