Yeti vs TS weight

Uncle si · Oct 11, 2015

I think he is refering to damaged chain drives limping out of the mountains.

I broke my sub-frame at the swingarm bolt and rode the whole mess out of the mountains with the primary chain holding the kit on the bike.

tillbuilt · Oct 11, 2015

mountainhorse said:
tillbuilt..
Which chain are you referring to? Are you including the Primary chain in that weight or simply letting us know that the chain is installed in the secondary drive?

I am including the primary chain in the weights. You have to. The kit comes with it, and the bike doesn't move with out it.

http://www.snowest.com/forum/image.php?type=sigpic&userid=49251&dateline=1414063337
Toby Till
Timbersled Regional Sales Rep, Henderson, Co. Ph: 720-263-7533. Email: toby@timbersledofcolorado.com
2015 Yamaha YZ450F KMS Turbo TS ST121, 2015 Yamaha YZ450F TS SX LT137, 2014 Yamaha WR450F TS LT 137, 2014 Yamaha WR450F TS ST 121, 2009 Husaberg FE570 KMS turbo TS LT137, 2010 Husaberg FX660 TS LT137

mikew5945 · Oct 11, 2015

summitboy said:
Randy are you talking about the Yeti belt drive or TS failed attempt at belt drive stranding people ? Or belt drive in general ? How could u possibly know whether the Yeti will strand people or not ? Just because your product didnt stand up to your testing doesnt mean someone else cant do it better. Yeti converted a TS kit to belt drive but the kit was so flimsy u could squeeze the belt with your hand and watch the shafts change position.

Yeti tested a 15mm wide belt on a 610 turbo with a 3" track and zero issues. The production belt is 21mm wide. The belt takes 5800lbs of force to break or 6gs of acceleration. These guys brought a belt engineer from Mitsubishi to test with them. This aint no backyard home grown kit.

Who could possibly know if this belt drive will or will not work. It could be a epic failure or it could work. Time will tell. So TS says belt drive is no good ! Better stick with a TS kit fellas.

How refreshing to read real info. Anyone affiliated with TS always says belt drives don't work. When cornered it is because they heard this info from TS.
It is funny how other companies can put a belt drive on a TS and come to the same ends.
The only thing TS people know for sure is that if they hit something hard, something might break.

mtn-doo · Oct 11, 2015

Uncle si said:
I think he is refering to damaged chain drives limping out of the mountains.

I broke my sub-frame at the swingarm bolt and rode the whole mess out of the mountains with the primary chain holding the kit on the bike.

Yes, thanks for not taking a couple of words and running with it out of context. I never said it didn't work? I see a couple of responses that said, and I quote, "belt drives won't work". I don't recall that ever being said? Hmmm? If you go back and read it again, you will see that the alignment issues from impact damage is the post.

As quoted above, Any mis-alignment from impact or damage and you are getting towed out. They don't limp home bent, period... We witnessed it several times last spring. Belt drive is cool for sure!!! I pushed it hard myself, but any minute tweek and you're walking.... Just the facts

summitboy · Oct 11, 2015

The statement "The biggest downfall with belt drive is getting stranded" is based on your testing of a belt drive on your TS kit. It was a failure. So now you blanket statement belt drives implying they will leave you stranded. Chains being superior to belts (in your application of course). On your kit the chain is superior to your belt drive because of the terrible flex that was/is in the TS kit. It was a problem from day 1. Not hard to see why TS went to dual row bearings.

Maybe the belt drive didn't work because the TS can't take a tweak and with the flex included it was too much for your belt drive. Your the one in a Yeti/TS thread talking about the downsides of belt drive. Of course thats not with your kit rather your competitors kit.

I thought i was pretty clear on my comprehension with the first 1-2 questions at the beginning of my last post.

Brand Loyalty !

mountainhorse · Oct 11, 2015

In the end... at the end of this season... we'll all see what works, what doesn't work and what makes the customer happiest...

Ride em hard people... lets get some snow quick!!

.

Hawkster · Oct 11, 2015

I can't believe there is even a conversation about belt drives .

I take it that the majority really don't pay any attention to other models .

The aftermarket snowmobile industry has been running them for years with a heck of a lot more ponies with a larger foot print and a heavier machine .

I've never blown a secondary belt but have stripped a few , self inflicted , road out one and the other it was to deep to get out . Lesson learned I keep a crappy old belt in the back pack and as far as anyone would figure I'd be changing out a primary , that's how easy it is .

Look at some of the aftermarket ones and you'll notice they offer more than just a belt and pulleys , they included a strong plate that works both ways , insurance of a quality product for themselves and the consumer . They are not something just added on as an after thought .

Uncle si · Oct 11, 2015

mtn-doo said:
Yes, thanks for not taking a couple of words and running with it out of context. I never said it didn't work? I see a couple of responses that said, and I quote, "belt drives won't work". I don't recall that ever being said? Hmmm? If you go back and read it again, you will see that the alignment issues from impact damage is the post.

As quoted above, Any mis-alignment from impact or damage and you are getting towed out. They don't limp home bent, period... We witnessed it several times last spring. Belt drive is cool for sure!!! I pushed it hard myself, but any minute tweek and you're walking.... Just the facts

There are a whole lot of single point failures that could result in a machine that won't get home under its own power. I'm not sure how much it is worth trying to avoid each of them individually. Anything that is stronger/lighter/more reliable/less maintenance is good imo. I hope the new kits work out!

Michealmolach · Nov 22, 2019

Taking it oldschool...

My 2moto radix weighs as follows:
10inch T/S backcountry ski and attachment 20lbs
track unit 50lbs
track chassis 60lbs (fit kit included)
Total 130lbs

NB. It would be a bit lighter with the original 6inch ski. These numbers are not super accurate as i used bathroom scales.

I'm impressed that the big kits (T/S and Yeti) are lighter than my wee 2moto kit with its 90 (or so) track length!

Next step will be to weigh the summer parts as i take them off the bike and do the math. I was quite impressed at how heavy the track itself is when i took it off to replace some clips - that is a lot of weight and a lot of inertia to overcome.

byeatts · Nov 24, 2019

Michealmolach said:
Taking it oldschool...

My 2moto radix weighs as follows:
10inch T/S backcountry ski and attachment 20lbs
track unit 50lbs
track chassis 60lbs (fit kit included)
Total 130lbs

NB. It would be a bit lighter with the original 6inch ski. These numbers are not super accurate as i used bathroom scales.

I'm impressed that the big kits (T/S and Yeti) are lighter than my wee 2moto kit with its 90 (or so) track length!

Next step will be to weigh the summer parts as i take them off the bike and do the math. I was quite impressed at how heavy the track itself is when i took it off to replace some clips - that is a lot of weight and a lot of inertia to overcome.

Just weighed the new 2020 129 freeride Yeti on calibrated commercial scale
Rear skid with chain 102 lbs
Spindle with bushings and all hardware 6.5 lbs
Complete ski with mounting bolt 11.5 lbs
I did not yet weight the soft strut
All is photographed and documented .

Search

Yeti vs TS weight

Uncle si

Free Member

tillbuilt

Well-known member

mikew5945

Well-known member

mtn-doo

Well-known member

summitboy

Well-known member

mountainhorse

Well-known member

Hawkster

Well-known member

Uncle si

Free Member

Michealmolach

Free Member

byeatts

Well-known member

Similar threads