Fogging Axys RMK 800 Engine for Summer

lanark_lad · Apr 8, 2016

Can anyone explain how to fog the engine of the Axys for summer storage. I've been on ETECs for 7 years, which have auto-fogging for summer so its been awhile since i've done this. In the past, i believe i just sprayed the fogging oil into the air intake but it was an older sled and a long time ago.

I checked the manual, which says to refer to the fogging oil bottle for instructions. So I've got the polaris fogging oil and it says to spray directly into the carb but i'm very unsure on how to do this.

Also, is there anything else i should do for summerization? Its stored in a garage and i block the exhaust off so mice don't get in.

Any pictures would help alot as well. Thanks in advance.

LongHorn XC · Apr 9, 2016

lanark_lad said:
Can anyone explain how to fog the engine of the Axys for summer storage. I've been on ETECs for 7 years, which have auto-fogging for summer so its been awhile since i've done this. In the past, i believe i just sprayed the fogging oil into the air intake but it was an older sled and a long time ago.

I checked the manual, which says to refer to the fogging oil bottle for instructions. So I've got the polaris fogging oil and it says to spray directly into the carb but i'm very unsure on how to do this.

Also, is there anything else i should do for summerization? Its stored in a garage and i block the exhaust off so mice don't get in.

Any pictures would help alot as well. Thanks in advance.

Getting to the throttle bodies is way more difficult than prior with the air boxes. On my pro, I drilled a hole in the side of the airbox (capped it with grommet) and would use 2 hoses to the throttle bodies. This worked good. For my Axys, I've just decided to start it every month. I store all my sleds (all motorized equipment) with 110 octane fuel. This fuel does not break down like 91 and lower. Lower octane will gum up jets and injectors (personal experience). I have done this all the way back to the carb years and have never had one problem. Engine builders love it when you use stabil, it brings them more work. I hear about engine failures and tend to believe it's because how they store their sleds with bad fuel and internals rust.

lurkcity · Apr 10, 2016

lanark_lad said:
Also, is there anything else i should do for summerization? Its stored in a garage and i block the exhaust off so mice don't get in.

The manual also mentions greasing the suspension

sledheader · Apr 10, 2016

LongHorn XC said:
Getting to the throttle bodies is way more difficult than prior with the air boxes. On my pro, I drilled a hole in the side of the airbox (capped it with grommet) and would use 2 hoses to the throttle bodies. This worked good. For my Axys, I've just decided to start it every month. I store all my sleds (all motorized equipment) with 110 octane fuel. This fuel does not break down like 91 and lower. Lower octane will gum up jets and injectors (personal experience). I have done this all the way back to the carb years and have never had one problem. Engine builders love it when you use stabil, it brings them more work. I hear about engine failures and tend to believe it's because how they store their sleds with bad fuel and internals rust.

Do explain how stabil causes issues....

Drewd · Apr 10, 2016

Do tell about Stabil. A double dose of stabil in my chain saw's allowed it to start/run with 2 year old fuel.

A double dose of Stabil is what I use on my sleds, UTVs, lawmowers, chainsaws, weedwackers, motorcycles and have never had a problem once.

squidbrain · Apr 11, 2016

Take out spark plugs, make sure piston is at BDC, I use a hose on the end of the fogging can, fish it through spark plug hole to the transfer port. (easier with one one of those snake cameras so you can see) give it a good spray. Do the same with the other piston. Put plugs back in and start the sled for maybe 10 seconds or so. If you want, repeat the procedure and just spin the engine over by hand a few times with primary clutch (no start). That will ensure you have lots of oil in your crank.

Red Mtn · Apr 11, 2016

LongHorn XC said:
I hear about engine failures and tend to believe it's because how they store their sleds with bad fuel and internals rust.

On the Axys there is no fuel that goes through the bottom end. How would "bad fuel" cause rust? If anything you are telling us it would leave a varnish, or is that just in the carbs/injectors.

Fuel is in the tank. It has almost no bearing on the engine when not running.

Red Mtn · Apr 11, 2016

lurkcity said:
The manual also mentions greasing the suspension

Should be done every few rides and at the end of the season.

Red Mtn · Apr 11, 2016

squidbrain said:
If you want, repeat the procedure and just spin the engine over by hand a few times with primary clutch (no start). That will ensure you have lots of oil in your crank.

The Axys uses an electric oil pump. I do not think that turning the engine over by hand will pump any oil.

Hardass · Apr 11, 2016

Red Mtn said:
On the Axys there is no fuel that goes through the bottom end. How would "bad fuel" cause rust? If anything you are telling us it would leave a varnish, or is that just in the carbs/injectors.

Fuel is in the tank. It has almost no bearing on the engine when not running.

No fuel goes through the bottom end of this motor? What?

Sage Crusher · Apr 11, 2016

Red Mtn said:
The Axys uses an electric oil pump. I do not think that turning the engine over by hand will pump any oil.

He was conveying how to distribute the oil/fog he just created by spraying into the transfer ports through the piston @ BDC.

sledheader · Apr 11, 2016

My plan, beings these are my first fuel injected sleds: Start them about once a month and let them come up to temp and shut them off again. Start of next season I'll siphon the old gas out and insert new gas....run it.

Murph · Apr 11, 2016

Curious if anyone else is thinking about using the manual oil prime procedure to flood motor with injector oil-- similar to what etecs "fogging mode" ?

G-Force · Apr 11, 2016

Seafoam in the gas (94 oct) and start them every 3-4 weeks. Keeps the smell of 2 stroke in the air the whole year :face-icon-small-hap.

lanark_lad · Apr 12, 2016

thanks for all the advice everyone, learned some good things. Wish the procedure was as easy as the last sled but oh well.

Cerialsledder · Apr 12, 2016

Put some SeaFoam in the tank. Rock the sled side to side and slosh the tank around to get it mixed in well. Start up the machine and let it get up to running temp and put it on the rack, set an alarm on your phone for a day to start it up once a month and call it good. Grease the front and rear of the sled and don't forget the jackshaft and you will be golden. I use to fog my machines until it became too much of a PITA to start them come the following season. I have been doing the seafoam technique for the last 6 years and no failures yet except for my 900 but that's because its a 900 haha.

Reg2view · Apr 12, 2016

Murph said:
Curious if anyone else is thinking about using the manual oil prime procedure to flood motor with injector oil-- similar to what etecs "fogging mode" ?

Done it with the hood off and a coat hanger on the pros, especially if the sled will be sitting for a month or two, but don't want to fog. Wouldn't do it to park for a full season with full synth like Gold, doesn't have the same corrosion protection from my experience (inhibitors and pools too easily).

I would not both manually prime and then fog the cylinders through the plug holes - no place for the oil to go - and they can hydrolock from tooooo much lube.

Didn't MH do a post a few years back on storage with full synth vs. dino vs. fogging? Something like that.

Ride_The_Rockies · Apr 12, 2016

Here is a list of things I do before I put my sleds away for the summer. I am not sure if this is the best way or not but I have done it this way for many years with no issues.

1. Add double dose of fuel stabilizer to gas.
2. Fill gas tank completely full of ethanol-free gas. (Full tank helps prevent condensation.)
3. Start the sled and let it run for 5 - 10 minutes.
4. Pull pipe and clean it, my sleds with a ceramic coated pipe I use Mothers wax to help prevent any rust.
5. Pull Spark plugs and dump a cap full of 2-stroke oil in each cylinder.
6. Turn off key and pull the sled over 10 - 15 times to make sure the oil coats everything.
7. Pull Exhaust valves and clean them.
8. Grease the suspension and everything that has a zerk.
9. Clean both primary and secondary clutches.
10. If sled has a chain case or diamond drive I change the oil. (I don't want any moisture that my have gotten in to sit there all summer)
11. Use a track stand or 2x4 to lift the track off the ground
12. Cover it up and wait for snow.

When snow flies I drain the old gas and put fresh in.

njk4o5 · Apr 12, 2016

Heres what I do for my sleds during summer:

Nothing

sledheadd · Apr 12, 2016

Ride_The_Rockies said:
Here is a list of things I do before I put my sleds away for the summer. I am not sure if this is the best way or not but I have done it this way for many years with no issues.

4. Pull pipe and clean it, my sleds with a ceramic coated pipe I use Mothers wax to help prevent any rust.

A little off topic but What do you use to clean your ceramic coated pipes?

Fogging Axys RMK 800 Engine for Summer

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