• Don't miss out on all the fun! Register on our forums to post and have added features! Membership levels include a FREE membership tier.

Another Yamadoo

Wheel House Motorsports

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Nov 27, 2007
29,933
5,968
113
34
SW MT
I honestly think the front mounts will work out fine.. as long as attached well, I still stand by my opinion that good rear ones trump front ones. althought a small torqe are from the front cluch side mount down to say behind the steering arm area would be awsome as that would pull directly agains the back/twis thing the motor is pretty set on doing.
 
T

Turbo11T

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2007
3,062
751
113
Lake Crystal, MN
I honestly think the front mounts will work out fine.. as long as attached well, I still stand by my opinion that good rear ones trump front ones. althought a small torqe are from the front cluch side mount down to say behind the steering arm area would be awsome as that would pull directly agains the back/twis thing the motor is pretty set on doing.

When u see what I am going to do you will say "that is definately the way to make a very strong mounts". I promise.

The plates will create a new engine cradle that CANNOT bend and really cannot flex either. It will brace off the chaincase and clutch side jackshaft bearing and possiblely the clutch driveshaft bearing as well. This is the way to go. It will be built strong.
 

Wheel House Motorsports

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Nov 27, 2007
29,933
5,968
113
34
SW MT
alright.. I think I have a strong Idea of what your building, and a lot like what my first Idea looked like, but the RT isnt the nice stamped level peice like the Rev, is, either way, I think that will work awsome and should really help deal with the strength issue on the chassis. The weak link, and the biggest issue with these motors in the rev/RT is the narrow bottom of the bulkhead below the motor and the only thing that really gives it strength is the steering loop assembly, building another plate linking front and rear mounts and alos just stiffening up the bulkhead would be the best case situation. Again, due to some differences in chassis, I think the Rev is better suited for your style of plates. keep up the good work, and pics are always welcome, they inspire ideas as I start to really look at what im doing with mine.
 
T

Turbo11T

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2007
3,062
751
113
Lake Crystal, MN
Templates ready

got my templates cut out. Hope to get the aluminum cut today. Here is a couple pics of the poster board templates.

MagSideOutside.jpg
MagSideInside.jpg
ClutchSideOutside.jpg
ClutchSideInside.jpg
 
M
Feb 8, 2008
63
13
8
44
hey i did an rx-1 into a rev chassis and built full side plates and they work good and made the front end super strong. go to ratsled.com and look under project revolution theres some pics of it and how we did it. looks good and will be lots of fun!!!
 
T

Turbo11T

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2007
3,062
751
113
Lake Crystal, MN
REVelution

hey i did an rx-1 into a rev chassis and built full side plates and they work good and made the front end super strong. go to ratsled.com and look under project revolution theres some pics of it and how we did it. looks good and will be lots of fun!!!

I have seen that one as well. I would love to see more pics and here more about that build. If you have any to share or other ideas please contact me.
 

Wheel House Motorsports

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Nov 27, 2007
29,933
5,968
113
34
SW MT
shoot moustrap, aka kyle a PM, hes been super helpful with mine on the propane hting.. he his setup ran 22#, so I bet his mounts would handle the power JUST fine.

I was curious if you had any plans of running the braces along the top like I am doing on my setup? from jackshaft area up to shock tower. I really like it as it squares off the whole bulkhead deal above the motor, minimizing bulkhead flex under full power as I know its not unreasonable for the whole deal to torque under load and allow the motor to move back a hair. Im really happy with how my new mounts came out. there not light, but they work damn nice and should hold a lot better thne last time.


On your rear mounts, what are you planning on doing for supporting the throught bolt between the two mounts as I notices that if you dont have it supported inside and out of the motor mounts it still allows the whole setup to tweak under load, not much, but it all adds up, and after my belt excapades last year, im all in on motor mounts now.
 
T

Turbo11T

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2007
3,062
751
113
Lake Crystal, MN
Braces

I am not sure if I will run braces. I am pretty sure that I have the flex issue taken care of with my full plate. I will be able to tell once I have it mounted in. As for the support for the cross bolts. I am going to get the side plates bolted up then I will be adding the bracing that will go between them and the motor mounts. The will brace to the front of the bulkhead and to the plates and then to the top of the tunnel roll and to the side plates. This will make it strong. I would really like to have some adjustment like the yamaha had with little screw deals but I don't think I will have that luxury. It will probally be spacers. I posted some pics on ty4 of my recent progress last night. I am without internet at home for now so it is hard to post pics with my phone and am to busy to do it at work right now.
 
T

Turbo11T

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2007
3,062
751
113
Lake Crystal, MN
update

Just took a few good pics of the new engine cradle. This just needs to be mounted in the chassis now and holes drilled through it for mounting the chaincase, and ect. I am thinking I may build a top brace for both sides as well. this can be a afterthought though as it can be added easily. it would just run up over the mag housing and over the water pump housing and connect the two mount locations to eachother for more strength. I guess I will jsut have to see how strong everything is when together. I think it will be like a rock already.

DSCN5407.jpg

DSCN5408.jpg
 

Wheel House Motorsports

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Nov 27, 2007
29,933
5,968
113
34
SW MT
NICE!!! those things looks saweeeett!!! I guess it must be nice having the technology to build the right stuff... You might be alright with no top brace, that setup looks STOUT. Cant wait for you to get it all in place and install it with the motor, should work awsome.
 
T

Turbo11T

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2007
3,062
751
113
Lake Crystal, MN
technology

I do have nice equiptment at work, but I did do this with a vertical band saw. I am pretty sure that most of this could be done with a jig saw and file. Would it be alot of fun, NO but it could be done. Btw skidoonit your front mounts look alot better than before.
 

Wheel House Motorsports

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Nov 27, 2007
29,933
5,968
113
34
SW MT
I think a bandsaw trumps a sawzall and a chunks of road sign being cut up in the alley.

Thanks, Im really stoked, they may not look pretty, but they hold the thing in a LOT better, and square. SO all in all it should work out much better.

It may be the same with you, but once I got my motor mounts done and figured out, I really got a LOT more motivated to work on the rest of the project, before they get done I just find myself kinda indiferent to the project, once the motors locked in, its game time! its a nice solid reference to work from then you can work on all the other stuff, running lines etc.
 
T

Turbo11T

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2007
3,062
751
113
Lake Crystal, MN
progress

Well I have the motor plates bolted in the chassis. The motor is bolted in for now as well. This this is rock solid now. The motor is extremely rigid and the chassis is also much more rigid as well. Now I need to get the oil tank mounted, intercooler mounted and shorten the heat exchanger. That should be the majority of the cutting drilling and grinding. I think I will all come together relatively quickly now.

front spacers
IMG_0593.jpg

Rear Spacer
IMG_0592.jpg

IMG_0591.jpg

IMG_0587.jpg

IMG_0586.jpg
 
Last edited:
T

Turbo11T

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2007
3,062
751
113
Lake Crystal, MN
Well it may have seemed as though this project has fallen off the face of the earth. Well here is an update. I am just finishing up the motor work. I lowered the compression and did the cam timing as well as installed a nytro oil pump. Then I will be putting the motor back int he sled for good. I will update the pics next week. I still have a few things to build. A new steering postn charge tube, downpipe and gas tank. These things shouldn't take to long. And thebn getting the wiring in the sled and all.
 

Wheel House Motorsports

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Nov 27, 2007
29,933
5,968
113
34
SW MT
sweet.. yours was kinda like mine.. no snowest updates.. but more stuff is getting picked away at.

always lots of stuff that doesnt look that impressive, but takes lots of time to get just right. good job and keep up the good work.
 
T

Turbo11T

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2007
3,062
751
113
Lake Crystal, MN
Some pics

Intercooler.
SDC10506.jpg

SDC10507.jpg

summit width a-arms Colbalt Blue and simmons skis
SDC10495.jpg

yep thats not dirty that is really metallic. Can't wait to see it in the sun.
SDC10496.jpg

motor compartment nearly ready for motor.
SDC10499.jpg

motor ready for chassis(compression lowered, cams timing done, nytro oil pump, ARP Head studs)
SDC10501.jpg

SDC10502.jpg


I did the motor work myself. It was pretty straight forward. I just followed the shop manual. I did alot of reading to get the cam timing right. I checked and rechecked it over and over again. I am very excited to see how much different this motor performs in the new chassis with the cam timing. It is a huge change from stock.

I am going to be getting rid of all the yellow on the sled. It just does not match the colors I want to go with. Also the rears suspension arms will be powder coated the same color. I have a idea for the side panels I bought at haydays as well but I want to wait till i do it to share it.

Next thing will be to get the hole in the bottom of the bulkhead so I can change the oil and filter. And then get the area that the stock front cooler was closed up. Then I will be putting the motor back in and get it lined up perfectly. I borrowed a square broach for the carriage bolts it was sure alot easier than filing the hole square.
 
Last edited:

Wheel House Motorsports

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Nov 27, 2007
29,933
5,968
113
34
SW MT
haha... good call on the square holes.. there a PAIN to make with a square/triangle file.

that thing looks sweet. I like it. the colors of the a-arms are cool.. but come on, at least pull the rod ends out of the upper A-arms out and polish em up a bit.. anyhting is better then RUST!!!!

the sleds are FUN, with the proper skid setup, they shouldnt feel much heavier then a normal stock rev... and the power is somewhat better(I think??)

looks good.. getting it better.. Im looking forward to seeing that thing.. we need to do a comparo this winter sometime.
 
T

Turbo11T

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2007
3,062
751
113
Lake Crystal, MN
haha... good call on the square holes.. there a PAIN to make with a square/triangle file.

that thing looks sweet. I like it. the colors of the a-arms are cool.. but come on, at least pull the rod ends out of the upper A-arms out and polish em up a bit.. anyhting is better then RUST!!!!

the sleds are FUN, with the proper skid setup, they shouldnt feel much heavier then a normal stock rev... and the power is somewhat better(I think??)

looks good.. getting it better.. Im looking forward to seeing that thing.. we need to do a comparo this winter sometime.


I know i need to do something with that ball joint but If I clean up the rust it will just rust again. And I can't powdercoat it because it can't handle the heat. I agree it looks bad.

Yeah I agree The motor doesn't weigh that much more and the weight is actually centraliexed further back. I am excited to ride this as well.
 
T

t_thall

Member
Oct 22, 2008
131
13
18
did you use someone's jig for the cam timing or set it to your own specs?
 
Premium Features