Another Yamadoo

Turbo11T · Jun 27, 2010

Yes. . . . Takes longer than you can imagine.

JTAB said:
I agree lots of things will come up steering, intercooler, oil tank etc motor fit is easy the rest is the hard part. But it all can be done, and it works this sled will be a blast to ride. :smile:

Jtab, Definately agree. . . . It is the small stuff that takes the longest. And these are the things that most guys underestimate. Some times the easiest things are take the longest and may have a guy scratching his head and also these are the final fit and finish things that set the build apart from others builds.

As for me I am far enough in. . . this chassis a triple. It had a triple 2 stroke sitting in it last summer and that project got halted from buying the vector, this chassis just wanted a triple, turns out it wanted a turbo triple 4 stroke.

Wheel House Motorsports · Jun 27, 2010

really liking your mounts, my rear ones are nice and small, just needs a little squaring up and beefin up, BUT< the front mounts look 10x nicer then mine. I am also working on a torque arm type deal.. who knows thought, as far as gettin into it, i stared at JTAB's stuff and carbondaddies for a couple months non stop before things got going on it. and still I keep looking at them and trying to refine things. Mine was easy to get into, then you start putting in the wiring harness, oil, coolant lines, turbo stuff etc etc.. it gets to be a jumbled mess!!! I think I moved my wiring around 2 or 3 times before I was happy with where it ended up, and more is getting moved now that im back into it.

either way, Im thinking the way your building this thing its gonna be AWSOME!! Again, you should swing it out to MT this winter and we can go play...

Wheel House Motorsports · Jul 11, 2010

any forward movement on the buggey??

Turbo11T · Jul 11, 2010

nope

Been on vacation, and racing lawnmowers so I have not had any time to work on it. I hope to get back to it this week a little. I am starting a new job in a couple weeks back where I used to work and have availabilty to a full machine shop, sheet metal fab shop, powder coating and tig welder. So this should really help the project move forward faster.

Turbo11T · Jul 12, 2010

Mower Racing ya dont say.

Here is a little lawnmower racing from this past weekend. It is a very small town festival. We only do it once a year and it is a good ole time.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QUjy37lP5Z8

Turbo11T · Jul 16, 2010

Sick

I am finally healing up after a week of being sick. Hoping to get a little time in the garage this weekend. I was just doing some reading about av gas again and dreaming of bigger boost numbers. Was thinking 16 lbs with the head shim would be sweet on av gas.

Wheel House Motorsports · Jul 16, 2010

that would be a LOT of fun.. my wastegate port was to small early season so when I took it out one day and got the tuning on I was creeping up to 16#... even with my poorly efficient setup, its a LOT faster then 10... thats right around what I want to run this year.

and with a shim and you run a pretty large intercooler, that should be plenty safe on straight avgas.

Turbo11T · Jul 18, 2010

boost

Ski-Dooin it said:
that would be a LOT of fun.. my wastegate port was to small early season so when I took it out one day and got the tuning on I was creeping up to 16#... even with my poorly efficient setup, its a LOT faster then 10... thats right around what I want to run this year.

and with a shim and you run a pretty large intercooler, that should be plenty safe on straight avgas.

Yeah, most definately. I would run that out west. most i would run here in mn is probally 12. And at 12 it is far to much power hear for the riding i like to do.

I am dealing with a abcessed tooth so I once again didn't get any time in the garage this weekend. I will get back to the project eventually though.

Turbo11T · Jul 27, 2010

Update

Last night I put the motor back in the chassis and found that the way I had it sitting before was not the best and have found a better angle. Before I was having an issue with the turbo hitting the pyramidal frame. I didn't wanna change the header so that was not an option. Probally will have to redo the front mounts I had cut out but o well.

Also today I came home to my "new" to me track. 162 powderclaw. Got a great summer deal on it. Am pretty excited about it since i hear it is the cats meow. Should sure be better than the attack 20.

Hope to get a few pics up in the coming days.

Turbo11T · Jul 28, 2010

So tonight I had the motor in and out once again. I ground the nubs off the bottom front of the oil pan to allow for the motor to drop lower in the bulkhead by probally an inch. I am now even more happy with how it is in there. I am remaking the front mounts tommorrow. Hopefully will get them mocked up tommorrow night. I am going to be doing my mounts much the same as JTAB did on his nytrex. He was definately getting way more hp and they ahve worked for him.

Wheel House Motorsports · Jul 28, 2010

the stupid ribs on the bottoms of the motor for whatever yamaha had attached is a PAIN, mine cleared them the way I mounted mine, but its still an annoying thing that just gets in the way. I like the way Jtab mounted his, the reason I went my way is the RT has big cast in thread deals by the chaincae mount, and on the secondary for the stock motor, so I already had nice attaching points.. should work out good for you, the lower and farther back you can get the motor, the better, you will really like it come time to install an intercooler... etc. lots more room on the front, and nice to have the turbo not hitting things~!!!

looks good so far.. once you get the motor in it all goes pretty easy then. It took me like 2 months to figure out how to get mine in from when I started laying it in the chassis to my mounts I ran last year.

Turbo11T · Jul 29, 2010

Intercooler

Ski-Dooin it said:
the stupid ribs on the bottoms of the motor for whatever yamaha had attached is a PAIN, mine cleared them the way I mounted mine, but its still an annoying thing that just gets in the way. I like the way Jtab mounted his, the reason I went my way is the RT has big cast in thread deals by the chaincae mount, and on the secondary for the stock motor, so I already had nice attaching points.. should work out good for you, the lower and farther back you can get the motor, the better, you will really like it come time to install an intercooler... etc. lots more room on the front, and nice to have the turbo not hitting things~!!!

looks good so far.. once you get the motor in it all goes pretty easy then. It took me like 2 months to figure out how to get mine in from when I started laying it in the chassis to my mounts I ran last year.

Yeah definately looks like I may be able to fit the intercooler directly below the carbs behind the steering post in a vertical postiion. I got the front mounts cut out at work this morning. Went with 1/4 alu rather than the think ones I had cut out before. And will run a cross shaft between the front ones. The rear mounts will probally end up being steel though for now. I would really like them to be billet alu but I don't have a big enough chunk of aluminum to mill them out of right now and don't wanna spend the money to buy one.

Th turbo clears the pyramidal frame now so that is all good. Also will be running a HKS or synapse BOV this year to get rid of the compressor surge that I had last year. I cannot have that.

I jsut recently went back to a company that I worked for in the past. I have a great machine shop, welding shop, sheet metal fab equipt and can powder coat stuff here so i am very excited to have this avail compared to my cousins shop 50 miles away. Should make the project come along better.

Wheel House Motorsports · Jul 29, 2010

might be worth a shot, but could you use your current IC/airbox with just some 45 or 90* silicone bends to attach it vertically?? seems like it would be nice not to half to hack the crap out of the thing and start over

and it sounds like your current job is pretty slick. I would like to work for somewhere with that kinda equipment!!

Turbo11T · Jul 29, 2010

IC

Ski-Dooin it said:
might be worth a shot, but could you use your current IC/airbox with just some 45 or 90* silicone bends to attach it vertically?? seems like it would be nice not to half to hack the crap out of the thing and start over

and it sounds like your current job is pretty slick. I would like to work for somewhere with that kinda equipment!!

As far as using the Ic the way it is will not work. The middle carb sits in line with the steering post. And if I went to a straight post then it would be to close to the mouth of the carb. If it was a 4 cyl I am sure that I could use the IC with a little different plumbing to the carbs and a straight post.

I am not going to cut my current IC apart. I will use a different one. Thinking of mounting it in the nose of the sled like the ski doo1200 kits are doing. I have a plenum from when I bought the sled that will work with some 90 degree silicone bends. So that is likely the route I will take for now. I actually think that plenum may be more efficent than my IC setup as far as air delivery to the carbs.

As for the job, the shop is great the only thing I would change is that we have a lincoln tig welder. It is only a few years old but I just cannot get used to it. I prefer a lincoln tig welder.

Turbo11T · Aug 1, 2010

Straight or not!

Hmmm. I put my front motor mounts in tonight and I decided that getting everything aligned at final assembly will be fun. The bulkhead is not very square. I don't find this hard to believe though. I am very happy with the front mounts though. Should work well. I think the way to make it perfect would be to have 2 3/16 plates cut, identically with motor mount holes and then have cross shafts to bolt them together. Then slide them over the sides of the bulkhead and align them to the jackshaft and bolt them to the bulkhead. This would be accomplish what yamaha did on the nytro and phazer. Right now I am going to make work what I have, and it will work but will take some work to get the clutches aligned.

Wheel House Motorsports · Aug 1, 2010

haha.. welcome to what Im facing doing it again for round two. My goal is to get the rear mount as dialed as possible as it is the one most aligned with the jackshaft, the bulkheads are so flexabile on DOO's ( with the steering supports off Mine I can twist the crap out of the chassis by hand) so I know even if the front ones rock, the thing is still soft, so the back ones need to be dialed in for square, then the front more or less to keep it all pretty close.

and its funny, looking back, this thread is basically me and you chatting, these things are fun, lots of hurdles, but they are SOO much fun to ride, and always fun to chat about with folks as well

Turbo11T · Aug 1, 2010

Wait, wait

I was sitting here after working on it tonight and thinking. . . . . . . I am happy with my front mounts but I think it could be better. And I thought to myself. . . . Why not make it the best right away cause after you drive 1000 miles to ride you don't want a broken motor mount to stop you from enjoying the sled. So I just ordered a pc of 3/16 aluminum. I figure It will a few lbs but in the end be wicked strong and keep it from being a belt eater.

Of course this will set me back in time a bit but luckly it is just aug 1. Haha.

Turbo11T · Aug 1, 2010

Structural

I will be running a few structural braces between the two plates as well.

Turbo11T · Aug 3, 2010

few pic to show what I am talking about. Everyone likes pics right, I sure do. These are the front mounts right now that I don't think are strong enough.

Thunderguy BOOSTED · Aug 3, 2010

I LOVE THESE BUILDS!! I might try it when i get a little bit more experience with turbos and boost etc!!

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