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Stripped splines....

Z

zr900turbo

New member
Sep 21, 2009
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6
Stripped the splines in the outer sheeve on the secondary on my king cat yesterday. The splines on the jackshaft also got stripped a bit, anyone seen this before?
 
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orange 1

Member
Oct 31, 2009
23
5
3
Grande Prairie A.B.
My clutch splines look like they will fail at any moment as well, shaft splines look good, not sure what is going on here, I have same model and about 1200 miles, clutch has only been off 4 times for cleaning and inspection, and only re assembled with a calibrated torque wrench. Clutch bolt has never been loose either. Clutch material looks too soft for the task! What to do now? Kinda pissed about it as I don’t even have a tune in it yet!
 

1Mike900

Well-known member
Premium Member
Dec 5, 2007
996
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43
Bellevue, Wa
Are we talking aluminum splines? If so they will not take the torque! If Titanium then for a few yrs. You want heat treated splines on both id/od splines to last for ever! They should make a heat treated insert on the clutch id that is molded to the aluminum, and a heat treated spline on the shaft for max. life? Guess today is min. weight? Mike
 

kanedog

Undefeated mountain clutching champ of the world.
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Oct 14, 2008
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Would you mind posting spline pics? Thx

Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk
 
F
Feb 3, 2017
47
16
8
Did you take off the sheave half lately?

If so you didn't properly torque the bolt. If you torque it up with the belt in/on, you need to rotate the driven clutch to get the belt to backshift and retorque the bolt a couple of times.
 
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orange 1

Member
Oct 31, 2009
23
5
3
Grande Prairie A.B.
Ya it has been off recently, I am aware that the bolt cannot be torqued with the belt in the way, thanks, and great point to mention!

Yes Mike, all aluminum for the outer sheave splines! I agree should be an insert or similar to the inner sheave with what appears to be a hardened steel hub!

I will post my pics when I figure out how to resize them!
 

jakey-boy

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Jan 10, 2009
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I went through three of these on my 16. The issue as mentioned is not being able to torque the bolt correctly. I finally started using blue loc tite and ensuring it was torqued to spec. Haven't had an issue since. My plan was to do a team tied swap if I lost another one because they have a different design. Not sure what it would take to do that on a king cat tho. That is what I would look into if you are worried about it. They are definitely a pain when they fail.
 
F
Nov 5, 2017
136
54
28
Nevada
They definitely got loose on there!
Did your install the washer between the two sheaves, then tighten the bolt?

I wouldn't hesitate to run it, but I would use a loctite on the splines for sure.
 

kanedog

Undefeated mountain clutching champ of the world.
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Oct 14, 2008
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Thank you for taking those excellent pictures. It gives a good perspective on what is happening with the splines.

Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk
 
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orange 1

Member
Oct 31, 2009
23
5
3
Grande Prairie A.B.
Sounds like a dealer response! It has never ran loose or been loose, ever! If it was ever loose i would think that the contact pattern where the bolt and washer capture the clutch would also show signs of fretting, wear, ridges etc, no sign of that. I would have noticed that the bolt was loose when removing it! Yes shims installed in between sheaves before torquing. I check offset every time.
 
F
Nov 5, 2017
136
54
28
Nevada
I wasn't insinuating that the bolt came loose.. You can CLEARLY SEE that the splines got loose / were rocking on the shaft.
I wonder if there were a few that were out of spec on the O.D of the splines. Or shaft splines to small. Either way it is self machining and will fail. I'll measure my jack shaft ect if you want to compare. Let me know
 

Anylizer

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May 17, 2005
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Top 'O the Great Basin... almost
IMO... the shim between the 2 sheaves is incorrect. This causes the deflection bolt to carry excess load and constantly putting the outer sheave in a bind causing uneven stress against the splines...
had it occur on customers '16.. shim and adjust. no more excessive wear.
 
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