2010 M8 (geo mod & ported track update)

elvis1280 · Mar 3, 2010

Shift_Fast said:
Did the geo mod on my 2010 M8 with the shaft collars, worked great. One thing I should say is you better be money on with your measurements, not much room for error.

hey shift, your gonna love it. i would advise you if you didn't to put locktite on the alan screw that holds on the shaft collar. i did it and i just dont want someone to blame me for the over cam if it falls off. another thing i will say is that i dropped the front arm to the lower hole on friday to see how it would ride? holy crap-o-moly, it was perfect. on the trail i couldn't steer at all if i was on the gas, which is my favorite way to ride. and the powder i outclimed my buddy on his stock 10' m8 by 20 yards. i know geo said not to do this, but it allowed me to run less preload on the front shock

WyoBoy1000 · Mar 3, 2010

I hate changing thing on the hill but it sounds like the only real way to know is drill the holes, go up find a hill make three pulls then change one thing after another and figure out the results.

camocat1000 · Mar 3, 2010

So if I have a 08 I do not need the collars?

QUOTE=elvis1280;2208278]So like geo says for either 08-10' Center of the hole is 11.4 mm from front edge of brackett
& 11.4 mm down from the bend on mount.

STOP ON RAILS- the 08' were 7.9 mm down
and 7.9 mm forward from inside edge of original hole. well this makes the new hole so close to the old hole is you ever want to switch it back the original hole will become very weak.
So my solution was to make the hole 10mm down from top of rail and 10mm forward from the edge of old hole. then i went to ace and bought two shaft collars inside dia= 5/8 and outside dia= 1 1/8" and placed them over the stops. once installed the stop rests up against the arms perfect. this is what i did because geo said the 09 & 10 stop was down and forward a bit. this allows me to move back to old hole (not that i ever will) if i want to and have all the strength still.

Very nice transfer and as plush a ride as the valveing allows. "geo"[/QUOTE]

summit-x · Mar 3, 2010

no u do not need the collors on the 08, just the 9 and 10 rails

Shift_Fast · Mar 3, 2010

The only reason for the shaft collars is to be able to drill the new hole a little farther away from the stock hole on the rails. That way if you want to go back to stock there will still be some meat in between the 2 holes. If you dont have the shaft collars you are just driling the new hole a little bit closer to the stock hole and dont have much material on the rail left between the 2 holes. Thats it.

elvis1280 · Mar 4, 2010

Shift_Fast said:
The only reason for the shaft collars is to be able to drill the new hole a little farther away from the stock hole on the rails. That way if you want to go back to stock there will still be some meat in between the 2 holes. If you dont have the shaft collars you are just driling the new hole a little bit closer to the stock hole and dont have much material on the rail left between the 2 holes. Thats it.

this is exactly the reason for the shaft collars. if you use the original "geo" measurments from the 08 rails you using the 7.9mm from top down and from inside edge forward. the actual hole itself is like 7.5 mm and it leaves you w/ nothing between the new and old hole. by doing it the way I came up with myself on the 09-10 rails it allows me to move back and forth. from the others that have done this such as shift fast it is working as well it has for me. thanks shift and others
elvis

RickM · Mar 4, 2010

Tip on using the locking collars

When I was getting ready to install the locking collars. I drilled an indentation into the original alumimun stops with a 1/4 inch drill bit. I only drilled enough for the lock collar set screws to screw into the indentations, I then used locktite on the set screws. This way the lock collar could not move sideways like some had mentioned in earlier posts. I positioned the lock collar set screws to the top so you could have a visual inspection of the them while your doing your routine sled inspections. Hope this may help out. Rickm

summit-x · Mar 4, 2010

im going to do this tomorrow on my 10 m8, hopefully works out good, my buddys did it and he said he loved it so all have to try it out, all tell u guys how i liked it when i ride it

Nubulin · Mar 4, 2010

WyoBoy1000 said:
Mine was done by holz and has the dual spring in on the front skid shock. I care more about on the hill performance, would I benefit. all I can see it doing is preloading the rear shock or is there more to it.

I have the same situation as you. The holz valving made a HUGE difference compared to stock. The GEO had mod worked great before on my stock valved 07 M1000. Now on the Holz valved 09 M8 turbo I think I have too much transfer and I don't notice as much improvement in the ride as with stock valving. I ended up going back to the stock mounting points. I think on a regular M8 or stock M1000, the GEO mod would still improve the trail ride a bit, but anything hotter than that it would give too much transfer for me.

WyoBoy1000 · Mar 4, 2010

Kinda what I was thinking, the only thing I am curious about is if it would help in the trees. Plenty of transfer up the steep as it came over before,

mtn mike on boost · Mar 4, 2010

Nubulin said:
I have the same situation as you. The holz valving made a HUGE difference compared to stock. The GEO had mod worked great before on my stock valved 07 M1000. Now on the Holz valved 09 M8 turbo I think I have too much transfer and I don't notice as much improvement in the ride as with stock valving. I ended up going back to the stock mounting points. I think on a regular M8 or stock M1000, the GEO mod would still improve the trail ride a bit, but anything hotter than that it would give too much transfer for me.

just to chime in here, i have an 09 m8sp 153 w/ the holz revalve. i love the set up, it feels almost perfect to me. well boredom set in the other day, and i did the geo mod. i hadn't seen him talk it up much on the newer m's, that's probably why it took me so long to finally do.

well we just got a fresh dump ( a real rarity this season ) and i got out and tried it. i cant say for sure yet, but i think its even better now. this weekend i am going to switch back and forth on the hill, but i am pretty sure this mod is going to stay.....mm

summit-x · Mar 4, 2010

well i did the mod to my 2010 m8, it works great, but i have a question on what psi u guys are running in the float shock? im 145-150 with clothes on, i put in 90 but it sat to low so i bumped it to 100 still sat a little low then i bumped it to 115 and it sits great, so any opinions on what i should be running? thanks guys

STORMY · Mar 5, 2010

how much is "to low" I'm assuming you took measurements, i'm 160 w/o gear and at 90lbs I had about an inch of sag which means I could go lower yet

Shift_Fast · Mar 6, 2010

bump

more info on what guys are running for shock psi with the geo mod. Also do you set your sag in the garage or on the trail?

av8er · Mar 6, 2010

no i wasn't kidding on the 1.5" holesaw

ported track1.5" behind each paddle, worked well

newtrout · Mar 6, 2010

Shift_Fast said:
bump

more info on what guys are running for shock psi with the geo mod. Also do you set your sag in the garage or on the trail?

On my 2010 162", I'm running 90 psi right now. I'm about 175 without gear.

Shift_Fast · Mar 6, 2010

newtrout said:
On my 2010 162", I'm running 90 psi right now. I'm about 175 without gear.

Thanks newtrout, Im about 180 w/o gear (solid muscle, haha) and I have yet to ride since I did the mod. Did you set that pressure on the trail? I know psi will change with the temps. I have a 100psi in the rear in my garage and have zero sag so i know I could go a lot lower but am gonna wait till Im out riding to set.

Uh oh this thread is getting to the point almost where i wont be able to view anymore.:rant: We should start a new thread.

summit-x · Mar 6, 2010

yeah this paying to view thing is kinda bs. but anyway im about 145 with gear and im running 87psi and thats when the tracks lifted off the ground

elvis1280 · Mar 7, 2010

summit-x said:
well i did the mod to my 2010 m8, it works great, but i have a question on what psi u guys are running in the float shock? im 145-150 with clothes on, i put in 90 but it sat to low so i bumped it to 100 still sat a little low then i bumped it to 115 and it sits great, so any opinions on what i should be running? thanks guys

summit, i am prettty sure if you did the holes correct and everything is right at 150 lbs you shouldn't even be able to budge the rear of the sled w/ 115 psi on the geo set up. I am 197 lbs w/ seat full of crap, no gas or bag though and mine w/ my geo type set up at 95 psi. i first rode it at 110 psi and it was just as stiff as the stock set up at 145 psi. but comparing to my other 10' m8 in my shop at 145psi stock set up, mine at 95 has the exact same height to the floor, and w/ me on both sleds has the exact same sag of 1.5".
so i would tell you to go out and ride w your pump and start out at 115psi then lower it to 85-90 psi. one more example summit is my dealer weighs 240 lbs + 2.5 gallons of gas + the largest bag made for m's and his is at 110psi w/ 3" of sag.
elvis

Crusty82 · Mar 10, 2010

I am going to the geo mod on my 2010 m8
I`m also considering to drop to the lower hole in front.

You seemed happy about moving to the lower hole elvis. Are there any other people her that has experience on doing both mods??

Does it increase the risk of stabbing the track?

Is there anything i must do when i droppe to the lower hole other than lose the bolts-drill- re mount?

sorry for my bad norwegian english

2010 M8 (geo mod & ported track update)

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