Robbed of Power

JohnnyH said:

Would you expand on a correct set up

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Lots of good setups out there but some things are basic and simple things that a rider can do to make there sled run better.

1. Engine : correct jetting for your altitude, plenty of air flow as well if your deep powder rider.

2. Clutching : correct clutching lots of good setups so find 1 yer going to like. It's all about the correct pinweight unless your setup is way out of whack for the elevation you ride at. Relying on your tra clickers imho is a bad habit setup yur clutch correctly and your clickers will rarely get used. when it comes to clutchng. Again lots of goodie setups. Im running HC center roller in the primary and a 44/42 44/40, S44, S42 in the secondary & they all shine on any given day....Clean clutches every third ride if you ride hard .... The TRA like to be clean.

3. Suspension : Setup your suspension for your weigh and riding stlye. adjust your limiter strap setup your shocks for your riding style if your a heavy rider you will benefit from heavier torsion springs in the rear to prevent the sag that will occure. Both stock XP shocks are marginal at best also.

4. Track : It's important to have the correct track tension.....With the track saging at the center of the "rail" you should be able to fit 3 finger between the bottom of the hyfax and the track.

It take all the above to have a good running sled that makes consistant trackspeed.

OT

shoppingcart111 said:

I posted this on Doo Talk aswell. So I bought a new 09 xp154 last year and it ran fine for about two trips then while in chappel after a huge dump of fresh the thing was bogging on hills. First I thought it was fowlled plugs but that wasnt the case, intake plugged, not the case, and the clutching was fine as far as I could see. It would run fine except while trying to pull a hill, it would bog and wouldnt let me make the climb, had to run the lake for a while then it worked fine except when I tried to pull a hill, same thing. Im leaning towards the overheat issue when the ecu retards the timing. Has anyone else had this isssue? The dealer tested the dpm etc and found no codes and everything to be working fine but that's at the dealer not on the hill. They want to send me to the hills with a new ecu and dpm to try if I have the same issues. HELP.

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Does your sled try to CREEP along after you engage the primary? I had 5 or 6 guest come out with 09 XPs, the primary bushings to tight, I had to pull there clutch and actually use a drill size sanding wheel and take the bushing down a little. I would try a 42/46 secondary. It made a huge diffenence in high alt. pulling. I would record my climb with stock, just as I was pulling out you could see my rpm dropping. After install of 42/46 I would not loose any rpm at turn out, and gained 5mph track speed. Big change. I alway set my primary up at elevation and leave it! Ride easy on the way home as/ high RPMs and avoid rev. limiter.

Everything clean is a huge deal, I at least blow my clutches out every ride, and pull with full inspection and soap clean every 5 rides.

So many variables!!!

Good post Summitinn.....cleaning with compressed air often gets rid of the abrasive grit that accelerates wear.
I have found some tight spring cap bushings....even a new cap off the shelf that would't fit over the main shaft. Just something to be aware of.
Since we're on the subject, another thing I've seen guys do is remove either/both the primay spring guide sleeve and the "hockey puck" shift limiter thingy.
Both are critical.....removing the spring guide allows the spring to bow to the side and rub on the spring cap, causing aluminum to wear off and puts all that abrasive material into the clutch (accelerated wear)....and the shift limiter thingy keeps the sheaves from banging together and damaging the area that holds the c-clip/bushing on the movable sheave....have seen that worn so much that it knocked the bushing out.

I had an issue with the same symptoms you are describing. It took me a few months to figure it out. I found that while chugging through deep pow I would get a "rich bog". What I found was that exhaust was creeping back inside the chassis after it would exit the exhaust port and would be sucked into the intake relief valve when the outer intake was clogged. The reason this happens is because there is no rubber seal on the exit port of the exhaust like there was on the rev chassis. I sealed the space around the exit port and drain hole right behind the port with silicone and and the problem went away. Don't know if this is your problem but it wouldn't hurt to try.

rabbi said:

I think that you are right on the money with this statement. Now, like i said , I dont know a lot about clutching, so does anyone know a good "clutch man"?

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You were talking to the "clutch man"....aka winterbrew. Order up his xp package and go riding.

Rt

I dont know what if Johnny H has any aftermarket parts but my sled acts the same way. I have an MBRP aftermarket can and I dont know what jets i am running. I thought the DPM was suppose to take care of jetting issues. I ride in Idaho and Utah, anywhere from 6-12k in elevation. Just like we have both said, the sled boggs under a load, most of the time the throttle is pinned and the power will slowly come and go. On the same climb my rpms will drop and peak 2-3 times? I also have a boondockers nitrous kit( dry shot intothe airbox) and even the nitrous wont give back the rpms! I am leaning towards primary clutch components, it seems like the problem has arrived as parts have worn out because if it was a "set up" issue , then it never would have run as good as it did for as long as it did.

rabbi said:

I think that you are right on the money with this statement. Now, like i said , I dont know a lot about clutching, so does anyone know a good "clutch man"?
I work on cars boats and motorcycles all the time, and i would love to be able to work on my own sled, is this something that i can figure out? I live in Southeastern idaho and if needed i will take it down to Utah somewhere, but i need some recomendations! I have worked with BoBs Intermountain in Pocatello but they havent really mentioned that this could be the issue and they sold me a DPM that didnt fix the problem. so if anyone needs a DMP, let me know. other than that i think i would like to give another dealer a chance. ANY IDEAS??????? Thanks again everyone.

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Winter Brew is your " clutch expert " you need to give him a call and get his clutch kit on your sled. My 09 had the same drop in RPM's, after the kit I had to clicker from 5 to 3 and it runs like a dream. It honestly woke my sled up. It sounds like you live near me, when snow flies you can ride my sled so you can feel the difference in Winter Brew's kit compared to yours, it really does run that much better then stock.

As for dealerships in N. Utah, go to Frank May Ski-Doo in Honeyville. They are a little dealership that is family owned and will help you 100%, I have bought two sleds and a wheeler from them and they have been nothing but excellent in the purchase and taking care of sled issues to sleds wrapped around trees They are about 30 minutes from the state line.

rabbi said:

I dont know what if Johnny H has any aftermarket parts but my sled acts the same way. I have an MBRP aftermarket can and I dont know what jets i am running. I thought the DPM was suppose to take care of jetting issues. I ride in Idaho and Utah, anywhere from 6-12k in elevation. Just like we have both said, the sled boggs under a load, most of the time the throttle is pinned and the power will slowly come and go. On the same climb my rpms will drop and peak 2-3 times? I also have a boondockers nitrous kit( dry shot intothe airbox) and even the nitrous wont give back the rpms! I am leaning towards primary clutch components, it seems like the problem has arrived as parts have worn out because if it was a "set up" issue , then it never would have run as good as it did for as long as it did.

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I have a Super Q can, RKT 14:1 head, 440 mains, DJ's clutch kit, and plenty of vents.

If my sled is not fixed after a new top end than I would have no clue what it would be. But one would think that a 20% difference in compression would cause a problem.

My fingers are crossed