1996 Polaris xcr 600 121-144 Gearing

19 top 39 bottom is a great mix of performance and low end. I think you can squeeze a 19/41 in your chain case can't remember off the top of my head. To figure out your chain Is it 9 plates wide or 13 wide? I will look at my gearing chart when I am at my shop tomorrow. Mostly depends on which chain case you have old style (stamped steel cover) or newer style (cast aluminum) I may have the gear and chain combo you need in my shop, I'd make you a great deal on the stuff you need as all my sleds run HYVO so it is just collecting dust...

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A '96 XCR should also have Hyvo gears in it. My '94 XLT did anyway.

I would look for something similar to the 19:41 although my gearing chart suggests that it is NA - I think the chain is super tight. With a looser chain it may work fine. The triple motor likes to rev so gearing it lower allows that motor to get up on rpm's a bit faster keeping the fun in it.

I believe you have no gear change options if you have mechanical reverse. Trade-off I suppose. You should have the HYVO chain and gears but it could be a 15 plate chain if not the 13.

Hey man post up a picture of your chain case. That will help out a ton. I can tell you that sled should have borg silent chain in it as the HYVO did not start until the 97 and newer sleds.
It however is available as an upgrade through WPS. if you post a picture of your chain case and the chain inside I can clear up the answer fast for ya.

I forgot I misstated about the chain width should be 11 plates or 13 plates. some sleds had 15 plates wide.

Some reason my mind was thinking way old snowmobiles :face-icon-small-con with the 9 plates wide...

just guessin but if you have a dealer installed reverse it could be this one.

http://www.babbittsonline.com/oempa...case-xlt-touring-european-xlt-touring-e963357

19/39 is a great combo for a 2"+ track with 8 tooth drivers. you might be hosed if the reverse case doesnt have options though. lighter clutching and the 8 tooth drivers should keep it revvin good in the deep if thats what youre doin.

96 600 xcr sp with stock triple pipes and dg can was my very first sled and boy did it rip!!! Whow does this bring back memories. Also put in Hot Seat hi compression heads and the slp lightweight skis that looked like a snowshoe with a small plastic runner......cant even remember what they were called. If i recall i had extended to the monster super long 136 which i think was the longest track in the industry at that time. without having to grab a new chanin I would target a gear ratio of about 2.25. i found both gear and clutch adjustments were necessary to prevent smoking belts when boondocking through the trees and up hills. if i recall the 96 600 xcr sp had the keyed shaft and old button clutch with straight angle helix so you should look to get a Team roller clutch with helix and spring setup for the genii or edge 700 cause if your off trail boon docking i suspect you will need more grip from the secondary clutch that the old stock setup will provide.

tremendously fun sled. good luck with it all. Fuji motor i believe??

I'm making a few assumptions - from the original post - we are talking about the XCR600 and NOT the XCR 600 SP. Meaning that you have a XLT type motor and single pipe. Traditional Indy Wedge Hood. White hood with purple graphics (I had one for 3000 miles, loved it) - XCR SP version was a triple triple, more like a reborn Storm motor with triple pipes, right from the factory, black hood.

That said, your ask about where to find specs/ideas. Forums are great, but sometimes it gets confusing. My recommendation is to start with factory info on similar sleds. go to www.polaris.com - replacement/service parts and look at the replacement parts breakdowns - they are all on line. For example, the '97 XLT RMK would have same chassis and suspension, its a 136 (so close), same motor (maybe smaller carbs, don't remember) and see what they used for factory gearing. And the chain length required for those gears. Compare chain PN's and you will get some reassurance that you can/cannot use your original chain. Do the same for other parts, like your chain case). When I put a 144 track on my 08, I had the same tunnel and xtra 10 as your 06. So I looked at a 08 RMK - again, same tunnel, but had a 136 ext bolted on. Compare mounting points for the rear arm (function is the same, but rear is pushed back). You would also notice that you can/can't put a 2" track under the tunnel because it will rub. So you lower the mounting holes, or choose a shorter lug track )

In the end, this method takes a little time. But the factories are pretty smart on this kind of stuff. Plus you learn a ton about your sled.

You get the idea. Once you have the factory info as a baseline, then there will be literally hundreds of different opinions available on how to make it match your personality. I have found the factory recommendations to meet 99.9% of my needs.

Have fun !

Yup, you're right.......NOT SP. My bad.

These may be helpful.

click on the pdf at this link for the entire 1996 Polaris Snowmobile Shop Manual which has major information on your stock gearing, clutching and pretty much everything. Between the Shop Manual and the Aaen Carb Tuning Handbook and Aaen Clutch Tuning Handbook you would be on your way to knowing a whole bunch about sleds.


https://www.google.com/webhp?source...TF-8#q=1996 polaris snowmobile service manual

Look at your "not recommended" chain size difference. If it is small like the 0.005" difference with a 19/41 in a 6.625" center to center chain case. You are Ok to use a "used" chain in there. A used chain that has been stretched a little will fit but the gears have to be lined up well when installing them. I did it on my old wedge chassis before I did a drop and roll using an edge chain case.

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