deflection?

9071000 · Mar 13, 2012

i may be beating a dead horse here but my brain is running overtime on the belt issue.lets just say i waisted 1000.00 on clutching and the whole issue is the moter flopping around.many of us have posted the the deflection is changing during a ride,belt getting tight for me.one of the 083 belts i blew in 10 miles i had my deflection tight.then i spent the money on clutching and left my deflection as loose as possible with out loosing performance,no blown belts.so maybe under load the moter is streching the belt to tight.im turning into a post whore but i love the proclimb and having the time of my life on this chasis.just trying to help with suggestions cause cat doesnt want to hel[p so we got to fix it ourselves.deflection is a easy test also.and free:rockon:

geo · Mar 13, 2012

Same findings. Cooler with deflection loose???

nosajlleb · Mar 13, 2012

head on over to HCS theres a guy with a thread over there that is talking to cat and posting his findings. http://www.hardcoresledder.com/foru...83147-wtf-where-did-catf1000sp-thread-go.html

hope it helps seemed very interesting but see for your self.

Kbakbmr · Mar 13, 2012

At first I ran my deflection normal, bout bottom of the top cogs, then after 2 blown belts I started running the deflection where the belt is flush wit top of sheave and my belt lasted twice as long. After having about 100 miles on belt 3 I changed the deflection back to stock setting and within minutes i pulled a cord so I loosened it back up and haven't messed with it since. Correct me if I'm wrong but once you have your clutches alligned, If you mess withe your deflection doesnt it throw the alignment off?

RACINSTATION · Mar 13, 2012

Once the clutches are aligned they are aligned. The deflection can be changed with no effect on the alignment.

Kbakbmr · Mar 13, 2012

K thanks guy

9071000 · Mar 13, 2012

so i havent pulled my belly pan but i hear there can be some adjustment in the moter mount bolts when loose from the chasis.maybe i can loosen them and force the motor over tio the pto side to get what team wants for off set.1.455 is what i was told from team and i cant get that even without any shims and im still wearing harder on the outside of the belt.GEO,i feel your withholding info on this subject:whip:

Going West · Mar 13, 2012

I couldnt get any movement. They were just loose with allowed the motor to move alot. Have you set you jack shaft up to the proper specs outlined in the jack shaft up date notice.

9071000 · Mar 13, 2012

yes jackshaft is updated and tight.but i can grab the primary and move it easily with little effort,witch moves the tcl,witch moves the secondary,witch changes offset and deflection.so im thinking if i can pull it up what stopps it from going down tightening the belt.example in aksnopro's pic in motor mount thread

geo · Mar 13, 2012

I've always set my alignment using magic marker on the clutch sheaves.

On my sled wide open (1 to 1 and up) is pefect with the original alignment advise from Team ( stock clutch set to factory 1.485, subtract .020" shims and add .040" float). That's close enough to what you are saying they told you.

My alignment is way out (according to the magic marker) at part throttle (below 1 to 1). Adding float improved it to a point. The part throttle alignment improved adding .075" float towards the outside. Adding more did not chage it any more and it still shows 5/16" out (a lot).

I don't know why I can't get it any better (below 1 to 1 alignment). I have gone around the world with helix's and springs. I am now using 140-200 and a straight 57 with the MDS weights and performance is excellent but heat is still a issue. Would like to get a straight 55 to try and use the 100-200 for my tree crawling, but it may be too soft initially.

So there, not holding anything back.

I have seen at lot of effort to stabilize the engine and primary clutch ( like the old days). In my mind, it is the snakey jackshaft that needs to be stabilized. I have better alignment at full throttle than part throttle according to my magic marker marks.
With a solid mounted jackshaft the engine was pulled out of alignment. With the TCL "who's pullin who".

9071000 · Mar 13, 2012

geo said:
I've always set my alignment using magic marker on the clutch sheaves.

On my sled wide open (1 to 1 and up) is pefect with the original alignment advise from Team ( stock clutch set to factory 1.485, subtract .020" shims and add .040" float). That's close enough to what you are saying they told you.

My alignment is way out (according to the magic marker) at part throttle (below 1 to 1). Adding float improved it to a point. The part throttle alignment improved adding .075" float towards the outside. Adding more did not chage it any more and it still shows 5/16" out (a lot).

I don't know why I can't get it any better (below 1 to 1 alignment). I have gone around the world with helix's and springs. I am now using 140-200 and a straight 57 with the MDS weights and performance is excellent but heat is still a issue. Would like to get a straight 55 to try and use the 100-200 for my tree crawling, but it may be too soft initially.

So there, not holding anything back.

I have seen at lot of effort to stabilize the engine and primary clutch ( like the old days). In my mind, it is the snakey jackshaft that needs to be stabilized. I have better alignment at full throttle than part throttle according to my magic marker marks.
With a solid mounted jackshaft the engine was pulled out of alignment. With the TCL "who's pullin who".

so being simple minded like i am,how did we get away with belt life on the older solid mounted secondary and the motor torging every wich way changing alignment and deflection all the time.i am having a hrd time with the theory that the jackshaft is the issue. i can wrap my mind around the belt getting tight under load or poor machining of the clutches,too much spring presure.i dont have alot of book smarts but usually can diagnose a problem and attack it.such as belt heat should be simple but its not.if not for the helpfull comments of a few on here i wouldent be as far as i am.so lighter springs,new secondary,and loose deflection have gotten me 600 hard miles on a belt.at my age and stamina the hcr runs beeter than expected.but for othes who are still blowing belts i feel the need to contribute and help resolve the problem.thats the reason for the rush of posts lately.i feel motor mounts are the next area to look at.thanks to all who post helpfull comments and i feel for the ones who are frustrated with cat.i really feel the fix can be found if we all keep sharing with our findings.

Kbakbmr · Mar 13, 2012

I think the 09 m1 used 60 Duro motor mounts if you feel like pulling your motor and swapping them

OLD SCHOOL · Mar 14, 2012

I just received a new 60 duro mag side motor mount to try, has anyone done this yet, and was there a noticeable change in motor movement?

Going West · Mar 14, 2012

Heres what I did, The motor is now very solid, about the same as my M1000 was with extra mounts. It did not help with belt life or belt temps. Posts #5 and #7

http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=306357

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deflection?

9071000

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geo

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nosajlleb

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Kbakbmr

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RACINSTATION

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Kbakbmr

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9071000

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Going West

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9071000

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geo

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9071000

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OLD SCHOOL

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