I have an 09 M1000 with 750Km, it was new (old stock) this year, anyway it's stock except for some vented side panels. It runs fine on the hill, but on the trail ( I know but I have to ride the trail to get to the Pow ) If I'm riding at say 80 Km (50Mph) constant throttle, it's about half to 2/3 throttle, all of a sudden it will go completely off song, almost like it runs on one cylinder. If I go to full throttle it is still flat and will only pull 6400. If I blip the throttle about 4 to 6 times it comes back to life, if I stay at full throttle no problem, but if I back off it will do it all over again. I thought it could be water in the fuel so put de icer in no change. I check piston wash it looks good about the size of a penny. Any thoughts would be great. Thanks.
Strange problem 09 M1000
- Thread starter El Gringo
- Start date
Are you running 87 octane.
I've ran one tank of 87 and one tank of 91 since the trouble started. no difference.
A
Sounds to me like it is getting over fueled when the ECU dumps in the fuel at the time the Power valves open.
Typically you don't see this on a stock sled, with stock fuel pressures etc. But it really sounds like it is over fueling.
I had the same symtoms on my 07. I was running a Y pipe and a can. But it would really load up when the power valves opened. I had to run a control circuit with my BD box to get it to clean up.
Again exactly the same. I could go from a dead stop and nail it and it would pull right through. But if I was at a average load and just worked it through the instant the PV's opened it would fall on it's face. It wouldn't clean up until I darn neared stopped and started over.
Something to check.
Thunder
Typically you don't see this on a stock sled, with stock fuel pressures etc. But it really sounds like it is over fueling.
I had the same symtoms on my 07. I was running a Y pipe and a can. But it would really load up when the power valves opened. I had to run a control circuit with my BD box to get it to clean up.
Again exactly the same. I could go from a dead stop and nail it and it would pull right through. But if I was at a average load and just worked it through the instant the PV's opened it would fall on it's face. It wouldn't clean up until I darn neared stopped and started over.
Something to check.
Thunder
Put new plugs in it, check the baro tube, make sure its clear. Maybe try routing it in a warmer location. Make sure the oiler alignment marks are lined up right. Are you using APV oil
that little tube off the ecu and what description gringo is describing is exactly what the symptoms were and cause was a plugged baro tube.
both cylinders would load but one was at least 200-300 f worse. hold it wide open throttle it would go. but temps were still like 250 lower than what they should be, after i got it thawed it ran perfect like it always has. definitely something to check
Thanks for the suggestions will check the Baro tube, oh and yes I am running the Cat APV oil.
9
Just my .02 cents but 2 stroke motors don't like to be held at one constant throttle position for long periods at a time, especially 2 stroke sleds. Get in and out of the gas and constantly blip the throttle as your cruising along. Holding it at one constant place for a long period of time is just asking for a burn down.
B
you r using apv oil so u really u need to clean your power valves at 400-500 miles it will be gumed up for sure consider changing to a cleaner burning oil apv is bad for power valves i changed oil and get 1000 miles before i need to clean them, start here as they r not opening if u r only getting 6400 rpm,also yes burp the throttle a little more often n get the valves opening and closing more too this will also help u,and yes it will sound like going down to one cylinder if they r sticking pump throttle it will come back to life but soon it wont cause they will be fully stuck also when u r taking time to clean adjust to proper spec this will help too if this is not it check tube n reroute to along the oil tank do this anyway
Last edited:
I have 2 sleds running on APV with about 1800 miles and never had to clean power valves, I check and adjust them every 3-500miles. if you had a problem then changed oil and it fixed it you may be burning oil that burns leaner and could cause a burn down issue, truth is oils don't make much difference I have heard different people say the same good and bad things about oils enough to the point it cancels out all of them on some level.
B
i have over 2000 miles on the new oil no troubles and yes it does burn cleaner and like i said u will need to clean every 500 miles with apv just like u do :face-icon-small-win and also i did more testing to this tried running brothers apv oil as it was a new jug that he did not need anymore and yep valves got stuck in just over 300 miles so keep burning apv if u want to clean your valves every 3-500 miles but i will not be burning it inless i get it for free.but this is jmo
I have never had to clean them, re read what I wrote, I adjust them and check to see if they need it.
B
im not trying to pick a fight with u here but i call bull sh!t on the no cleaning of your valves in 2000 miles come on man really in less u have a oil injection delete witch will change everything or turned your injection way down witch now makes your sled nothing like his stock sled so hmmm what is it.if u were running stock set up like we r u would know that apv is junk and would not say stuff like oil does not make a diff come on man but lets get back to topic here anyway,:wave:any updates on anything yet
Clean oil
if you run like APV you do not need to clean them
if you run like APV you do not need to clean them
i have never pulled my PV's on my 1000 in over 2100 miles. of all my PV cats everytime i pulled them using Cat APV i have never had gummed up valves. so i never even bothered on my 1000. never had one issue with the PV system. just adjusted cables a few times in that mileage. thats it.
I havent had to clean them, you can say what you want. My oiler is adjusted right and I don't idle around everywhere.
Mine has 2000 miles and never needed cleaning.
Sounds like a crazy lean bog to me. You really really have to watch 5000-5500rpm on the 1000s from what I understand. I would pull your plugs and inspect them. Make sure they are not white.
Also, easiest way to look in the motor is through the power valves. There are (2) 10mm bolts holding them on. Undo the bolts and have a peek at the cylinders and the piston skirts for scoring. Make sure you know what side is up and what side is down when putting them back in. If the valves are all gummed up, clean them with a scotch bright pad or like a toothbrush with some brake cleaner.
Also, easiest way to look in the motor is through the power valves. There are (2) 10mm bolts holding them on. Undo the bolts and have a peek at the cylinders and the piston skirts for scoring. Make sure you know what side is up and what side is down when putting them back in. If the valves are all gummed up, clean them with a scotch bright pad or like a toothbrush with some brake cleaner.
M
What clutching are you using? My stock '09 was slightly used when I bought it, 300 clicks, and factory clutched for higher elevation riding than where I live. i.e. <3000'. My machine unfortunately suffered from the exact situation you described, the result being it bogged at the worst possible time, and caused me to roll right at the pinnacle of a climb. After major work to replace the hood, steering post and bars, etc., my dealer changed the weights and spring in the drive clutch which resulted in trouble free riding this year. I still don't think the machine has the snap it should, but at least the bog is gone. Not exactly sure but I think the weights were 85 gr with a purple spring. I can check later and advise if you think this will help.
