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Arctic Cat: TURBO Turbo discussion for Arctic Cat aftermarket turbo sleds
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  #1  
Old 01-30-2017, 10:08 AM
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Default Removing Stinger from stock PIPE for turbo applications

Wondering how many of you guys have done this? Sounds like it is part of the install for a cutler kit but have people tried it with other kits? Mostly wondering if it changed your fuel numbers to do it? Thinking about giving it a try to clean up the bottom end on my sidekick but with no way to monitor air fuel or change tuning I want to have an idea what I am getting into prior.

To me it makes sense why we are having some trouble on the bottom with these kits if there is too much back pressure.
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  #2  
Old 02-24-2017, 01:19 PM
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Yes, get rid of stock stinger. Most kit builders don't do it because it makes install more difficult for the average guy who just wants to bolt up something then take off and sell sled as a stocker at end of season.
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  #3  
Old 03-01-2017, 06:52 PM
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I built my own kit and put a 2 inch stinger in my stock pipe it uses the king cat grafoil seal
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Old 03-17-2017, 11:53 AM
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Can someone post some pictures of this? And what size and length of 90deg bend I would need? Thanks.
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Old 03-19-2017, 12:47 AM
HCR10 HCR10 is offline
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Go to cutlers cox web site and go to instructions you will see tbe instructions to do this to the stock pipe. Its easy took me 2 hours start to finish and you do not need to make/buy another stinger you reuse the stock one.
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Old 03-19-2017, 12:48 AM
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Cutlers cpcracings web site
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Old 03-27-2017, 10:50 AM
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Forgot about this thread. I did this a couple months ago even before I could get feedback on here. Definitely was worth it helped my bottom end a fair amount. I feel like the sled had so much back pressure it was choking until the exhaust valves could open.

Really easy to do just have to be proficient welding.
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Old 09-24-2017, 10:00 PM
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Just thought I would share how I like to remove stinger with minimal welding.
Measure back 5 and 6 inches. Use thin kerf wheel, plunge cut in middle of the weld. This removes weld on inner support. Grind weld where chamber meets pipe enough to free the pipe. Gently twist with pipe wrench to break inner support free. Use jig saw to remove tabs through slot. With tabs removed pull pipe out as far as possible and cut off. This small inner piece that had the support bracket is removed from other end of exhaust pipe. You can see how jig saw blade removed tabs on the interior of the stinger to allow extraction from the other end of the pipe. Weld 2 slots shut and clean off any weld spatter on the inside. (I use a piece of metal as a backer for welding the 2 slots in case of a burn through, that is what the vise grips are holding, then remove the backer metal). Then cut stinger to length and weld in place, leak test and clean and paint and you're done. I am doing a boondocker pro boost from BDX and the pipe needs to modified to fit. This is a nice kit and top components with MTA and TIAL.

Hope this idea helps because it minimizes welding and keeps the interior of the pipe clean. Remember..... anything in the pipe will get blown through the vanes so keep it clean!
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Last edited by Tyshu2; 09-24-2017 at 10:31 PM. Reason: Clarification of wording
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  #9  
Old 12-06-2017, 08:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tyshu2 View Post
Just thought I would share how I like to remove stinger with minimal welding.
Measure back 5 and 6 inches. Use thin kerf wheel, plunge cut in middle of the weld. This removes weld on inner support. Grind weld where chamber meets pipe enough to free the pipe. Gently twist with pipe wrench to break inner support free. Use jig saw to remove tabs through slot. With tabs removed pull pipe out as far as possible and cut off. This small inner piece that had the support bracket is removed from other end of exhaust pipe. You can see how jig saw blade removed tabs on the interior of the stinger to allow extraction from the other end of the pipe. Weld 2 slots shut and clean off any weld spatter on the inside. (I use a piece of metal as a backer for welding the 2 slots in case of a burn through, that is what the vise grips are holding, then remove the backer metal). Then cut stinger to length and weld in place, leak test and clean and paint and you're done. I am doing a boondocker pro boost from BDX and the pipe needs to modified to fit. This is a nice kit and top components with MTA and TIAL.

Hope this idea helps because it minimizes welding and keeps the interior of the pipe clean. Remember..... anything in the pipe will get blown through the vanes so keep it clean!

Just another pic to help understand what is being cut with thin kerf 4" wheel. And tabs to cut off with jigsaw blade
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