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Any buddy on here ever try any other products for belt life an engine stability?
One stop performance belt life products?
- Thread starter powerstroke 350700
- Start date
I tried the js support and engine snubber last year. Helped some, not a fix all.
D
im running the new dayco belt and new clutch and clutch cover and im having better success evo tcl delete is pretty much theway to go
S
I have their engine snubber, jackshaft support and manual chain tensioner. They seem to be helping but I didn't have a serious "belt blower" like some people.
I will say I had issues with how the block for the manual tensioner fits in the chain case. took three separate tries and a trip to the machine shop before my chain case would stop leaking. I talked to OSP about it and they said they were going to change the way they build the block so it wouldn't happen again. overall I think its a good product however I spent enough to be half way to a Evo kit which is by far the best solution available right now.
S2H
I will say I had issues with how the block for the manual tensioner fits in the chain case. took three separate tries and a trip to the machine shop before my chain case would stop leaking. I talked to OSP about it and they said they were going to change the way they build the block so it wouldn't happen again. overall I think its a good product however I spent enough to be half way to a Evo kit which is by far the best solution available right now.
S2H
I have OSP
I've got the manual tensioner. Same prob. Had to grind sh!t so the cover would fit tight and seal. I find the engine snubber and TCL bracket did nothing... maybe put my clutches further apart. I neglected to check my C-C before I installed it. I'm 11 5/8". Now I've blown (2) belts? F#@k! This thing is most likely going to Gene's mechanic in the summer. I love this thing... but really! Yamaha has been putting in to the ground HUGE for a number of years. They never had this prob! Frustrated M1100T owner. I also have the Belanger HD jackshaft and heat shield.
I've got the manual tensioner. Same prob. Had to grind sh!t so the cover would fit tight and seal. I find the engine snubber and TCL bracket did nothing... maybe put my clutches further apart. I neglected to check my C-C before I installed it. I'm 11 5/8". Now I've blown (2) belts? F#@k! This thing is most likely going to Gene's mechanic in the summer. I love this thing... but really! Yamaha has been putting in to the ground HUGE for a number of years. They never had this prob! Frustrated M1100T owner. I also have the Belanger HD jackshaft and heat shield.
I'm not bashing OSP
I thought I should make that clear! I could have it all messed up. I'm an Automotive Mechanic. I don't claim to know everything though. I'm sure there are numerous factors I just don't know about.
I thought I should make that clear! I could have it all messed up. I'm an Automotive Mechanic. I don't claim to know everything though. I'm sure there are numerous factors I just don't know about.
There's quite a few guys on HCS that are using their alignment tool. Lots of guys are saying forget the tcl deletes and other bandaid type fixes. Start with the OSP tool then see if that fixes the problems. It seems like a pretty nice tool. Here's a good thread on it.
http://www.hardcoresledder.com/foru...7-belt-blowing-issue-fixed-thank-you-osp.html
http://www.hardcoresledder.com/foru...7-belt-blowing-issue-fixed-thank-you-osp.html
Get the tool
I never ble w belt on my 2013 till I hit 600 miles..then I have gone through 3 of them..
Bought the tool and my CTC is to long, and the parallelism is ove .60 out an all three measuying points...
So it time to pull the motor mounts/ and get some adjustment going on..
The tool from OSP is the first step- quit throwing more money at belts- this toll is almost the cost of one belt so-that said it is well worth the investment..
Pulling the motor mounts are no joy either-:frusty: quite a bugger but can be done by most shade tree wrenchers....
I never ble w belt on my 2013 till I hit 600 miles..then I have gone through 3 of them..
Bought the tool and my CTC is to long, and the parallelism is ove .60 out an all three measuying points...
So it time to pull the motor mounts/ and get some adjustment going on..
The tool from OSP is the first step- quit throwing more money at belts- this toll is almost the cost of one belt so-that said it is well worth the investment..
Pulling the motor mounts are no joy either-:frusty: quite a bugger but can be done by most shade tree wrenchers....
Good so far
I have OSP polyurethane engine mounts, JS support and engine snubber on my '12. So far I have gotten over 500 miles on the machine that used to blow a belt every 150 miles. I also have a Team secondary, Belanger clutch guard and lots of venting. My motor is pretty solid now.
If you go this route make sure your C to C is as close to 11.5" as you can get it. Also make sure you have the clearance behind your secondary to the OSP JS support. The back side of the secondary can contact the support at full open. You have to grind the OSP support to get it to go over the bearing housing far enough to get the clearance.
I have OSP polyurethane engine mounts, JS support and engine snubber on my '12. So far I have gotten over 500 miles on the machine that used to blow a belt every 150 miles. I also have a Team secondary, Belanger clutch guard and lots of venting. My motor is pretty solid now.
If you go this route make sure your C to C is as close to 11.5" as you can get it. Also make sure you have the clearance behind your secondary to the OSP JS support. The back side of the secondary can contact the support at full open. You have to grind the OSP support to get it to go over the bearing housing far enough to get the clearance.
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I posted pics of the mods that had to be done to the OSP enclosed JS brace to work with the Team last winter. Many of you that have contacted me since that tool has been made available I have strongly recommended the purchase of the tool before bolting any of the parts on. I have sold tools to almost all the Evo dealers because without that it is very hard to duplicate the measurements consistently. I stock the drivetrain OSP parts at the shop including the tool. Email me if you are interested in getting one. As someone said above the tool isn't much more than a belt and if you have an 1100 good chance you know someone with one. Share the cost.
W
anyone in the portland oregon area with the tool i can rent from them??
I'm getting the tool from Gene
I'm positive I've made this thing worse. I asked to have my name put on an alignment tool when WKM receives their shipment. Unless someone in Alberta has one they want to sell me? It will be interesting to see how bad it is!
I'm positive I've made this thing worse. I asked to have my name put on an alignment tool when WKM receives their shipment. Unless someone in Alberta has one they want to sell me? It will be interesting to see how bad it is!
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What about the bolt eccentric!
Does it come with the tool? I sure hope so.
Does it come with the tool? I sure hope so.
re: eccentric cam
Bendy, it doesn't come with the cam. I wasn't aware Gene was brining any in, as I ordered mine direct from OSP - should have it by the weekend. Jim @ OSP suggested I order two eccentrics, as the mag mount can also be corrected if need be.
Bendy, it doesn't come with the cam. I wasn't aware Gene was brining any in, as I ordered mine direct from OSP - should have it by the weekend. Jim @ OSP suggested I order two eccentrics, as the mag mount can also be corrected if need be.
You are correct Karl-I have the other for the mag side and inital measurments I will probally end up needing it.. Got the JS out finally but buggered up the threads on the bearing on the chain case upper bearing where the lock ring goes...I checked the service manual today and nothing was noted about removing or caution on the knock sensor.....
What kind of tool can I use to hammer out the bearing on the chain case instead of pulling it.. OSP web is using a old JS but unfortinally I am reusing me old one..:doh:
S/C
Use a heat gun...
Joe, heat the chain case around the bearing until the residual oil starts to smoke - the bearing will pop out with the use of a pick, or you can strike it from the inside out with a kingpin from an old ford (still have to use heat). I never liked the idea of driving out a press fit bearing - I feel that you may damage the case doing so.
P
What keeps the concentric from turning in the hole that you drill?
????
question for you guys using the osp setup. So your ctc is supposed to be 11 1/2" but if your at 11 5/8" and your pushing the engine "snubber" till the bolt comes out easily. you would technically be increasing that distance. so am I missing something in this process or it is what it is?
question for you guys using the osp setup. So your ctc is supposed to be 11 1/2" but if your at 11 5/8" and your pushing the engine "snubber" till the bolt comes out easily. you would technically be increasing that distance. so am I missing something in this process or it is what it is?
