CRANK'N my 06 900

Royal Purple

POLZINHUNTER said:

Dan ,
Any opinion on Royal purple brand it is a synthetic but, i have used there products in tons of industial rotating equipment and it suceeds where others fail its really quite remarkable stuff run it in my 900 and it runs better that ever. I will be sending you my bottom end in the spring .I guess you can evaluate it at that point. I would bet good money its the best syn. out there likley better than conventional
.

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Sounds Like you found a good product, I have heard good things about Royal Purple. I can only speak from what I have used & Done over a long period of time ( It kills me how some of these people jump on a oil promotion wagon based one or two years of riding. ) I have been watching this VES Gold sense it came out and guys that run sleds hard in Mountain conditions it does not fair well. I don't count trail riding as hard riding. There is no test like pulling a 159 X 2 inch track for months at a time.

Ricta - I can't answer your questions about your crank, To many ( Ifs ) I have changed my tactics completely this year for the good of my customers. I make all the desisions and I rebuild the cranks & Crankcases to what I want to do and then I warranty it with a warranty above and behond anyone else. My warranty is transferable to a new buyer as long as the invoice from me goes with the sled the crankcase serial number and case date is on the invoice. This protects me and the customer. There has been a few motors sold out there with Indy Specialty listed as the rebuilder only to find out I have never worked on the motors and unbenouced to the owner they were sent out to a lower bid. Twice in the last month this happened. If there is no invoice don't buy it without notifiy me.

a complete bottom-end for you sled is $1365.00 as listed in my ebay store - The ( 700/800 ) TorqueMaster Listing explalins everything in great detail and leaves no questions unanswered.

Thanks, Dan

Dan,

It was good to talk with you on the phone yesterday...Thanks for taking the time to share your expertise with me.

You will be seeing one of my motors here soon.

Great work on these setups!!

I swear by Royal Purple oil. I have been running it in all my toys for years. In my drag car, Harley, quads, and and sleds. I could felt a seat of the pants change going from VES gold to RP in my 900 RMK. Temps are cooler in my Harley, quads run smother. I will use nothing else.

Thanks Dan,
Just got back from the shop and the outside PTO side bearings are bad, nothing wrong with my case and I'm not sure if they welded to the PTO side shaft. I would like to just replace those bearings and maybe the shaft if needed. What would be your suggestion?

Changing Oils

Can anyone tell me what I need to do to safely change from Polaris Gold oil to a petroleum based oil? Do I have to remove all the oil from my tank? Or can I wait untill it gets low and mix them? I have always had good luck with petrolium based oils and would just as soon run them if they are better oil.Thanks,storyboy.

It would be a good idea to drain the oil it would likley be fine but best not take a chance I would say .

The royal purple oil sounds promising. I posted earlier in this thread. I have the two new rebuilds, top and bottom. Would you use the royal purple for break in?

Dan is on to something here......... I lost the crank in my 72 TX 500 due to storage corrosion. My Dads 73 TX500 was stored next to with polaris Blue. That was the last time I put Klotz in anything. My 03' SKS800 has 9800 miles on it and has a steady diet of Citgo sea&Snow or Yamalube 2s. I never have to clean the valves and my crank is still in one piece. I tried Polaris VESII and I suddenly encountered dirty valves. I went back to what I was using after trying several oils documenting valve cleanliness. BTW All I do for storage is add stabil in the gas and park it. I try to start it up once a month and that is it. No issues with anything.......

As for the walmart supertech, I wouldn't use it in a Poo VES motor. The valves will get dirty fast and with a very hard to clean substance. Just my 0.02 and these results may not be typical however I still have 3 or 4 gallons of VESII oil in the shop if somebody wants it.

indydan said:

My warranty is transferable to a new buyer as long as the invoice from me goes with the sled the crankcase serial number and case date is on the invoice. This protects me and the customer. There has been a few motors sold out there with Indy Specialty listed as the rebuilder only to find out I have never worked on the motors and unbenouced to the owner they were sent out to a lower bid. Twice in the last month this happened. If there is no invoice don't buy it without notifiy me.

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Dan,

While I am thinking about it.....I sent my 800 VES to you in Aug/Sept. of 2006 to get the crank and cases trued, big bearing upgrade, new pistons/rings, and balance primary clutch. I was just wondering if you have that information in your books or on your computer so that when I sell the sled there is proof in case the buyer wants it. If not no problem, my dumbass should've kept the receipt.

Another thing I was wondering is do I need to adjust the oil pump at all when switching from VES Gold to the green Castrol? I have it adjusted to Polaris specs right now.......the line on the pump arm and pump housing are lined up at idle. Do you suggest I set the pump to Polaris specs, give it more oil than Polaris specs.....or dare I say less oil than Polaris specs?

Your knowledge and work does not go unappreciated here:beer;.....Thanks.

06 Dragon said:

The royal purple oil sounds promising. I posted earlier in this thread. I have the two new rebuilds, top and bottom. Would you use the royal purple for break in?

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I would say "NO" to this as they do not recomend there oils during break in because it limits friction so well your rings will not seat properly I would run at least a few tanks w/ the polaris blue Dan recomends and stricly follow the heatcycling procedure explained earlier in this post I put a new engine in my 900 this summer and got it up to operating temp probably 10 times befroe I got it above engaugement rpm and the let it cool. this is an entirely different sled than it was. the only problem I have is that it make so much more power than before I have clutching issues and am not quite sure what to do .I have never had this problem before .

So back to switching oil. Mine is set up premix, would it be a problem for me to switch oils when i have a 1/2 or 1/4 tank of fuel already in the sled that is mixed with Poo Gold?

Questions for Dan

Can you still run your stock clutch?

Do you offer your own BB kit with it?

I was told by a Polaris Dealer that the 06 cranks were much improved over the 05. Is this true?

likinit2 said:

My 03' SKS800 has 9800 miles on it and has a steady diet of Citgo sea&Snow or Yamalube 2s. I never have to clean the valves and my crank is still in one piece. I tried Polaris VESII and I suddenly encountered dirty valves. I went back to what I was using after trying several oils documenting valve cleanliness. BTW All I do for storage is add stabil in the gas and park it. I try to start it up once a month and that is it. No issues with anything.......

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I too switched from synthetic to mineral a couple years ago. I honestly think the valves are cleaner running Citgo S&S (Yamalube and Polaris Blue are the same) than with the VES II or VES Gold. I too had a crank bearing fail for no known reason part way into the season, and was running synthetic. My 660 Fusion has only been fed a steady diet of Citgo. So far, so good. I am very impressed with how clean it burns. Piston domes, heads, and valves are very clean. I just got tired of paying top dollar for hyped up oil.

i use citgo s&s in all my old sleds, made a big difference over the old tcw3 being a partial synthetic. didn't use it in my 03 because it didn't say it was for ves systems. used vesII and now i had to get it rebuilt by dan.

dan what about snowmax its a cenex product, synthetic, says its good for all makes with ves systems. or should i just run citgo in every thing. my new dragon i am going to run the ves gold, but its under warranty, or do i have too??

Ves Gold

Tony, I don't know about Polaris and what their warranty says i will check it out and get back to you. you never know about them.

run citgo in your 800.

Big bore. 05 / 06 cranks

diamonddave said:

Can you still run your stock clutch?

Do you offer your own BB kit with it?

I was told by a Polaris Dealer that the 06 cranks were much improved over the 05. Is this true?

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I do not offer any big bores for the 900, Carls cycle makes a great kit.

the 05 & 06 cranks are the same.

the 07 crank ( never made it to the line ) is suppose to be better and has a bigger PTO-end - 33mm

Dan

Joel Spaans

shortstop20 said:

Dan,

While I am thinking about it.....I sent my 800 VES to you in Aug/Sept. of 2006 to get the crank and cases trued, big bearing upgrade, new pistons/rings, and balance primary clutch. I was just wondering if you have that information in your books or on your computer so that when I sell the sled there is proof in case the buyer wants it. If not no problem, my dumbass should've kept the receipt.

Another thing I was wondering is do I need to adjust the oil pump at all when switching from VES Gold to the green Castrol? I have it adjusted to Polaris specs right now.......the line on the pump arm and pump housing are lined up at idle. Do you suggest I set the pump to Polaris specs, give it more oil than Polaris specs.....or dare I say less oil than Polaris specs?

Your knowledge and work does not go unappreciated here:beer;.....Thanks.

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Hi. if your crank was done in 06 I didn't offer the 3 year warranty. it was 1 year then. the Torque Master bottom-end is the only 3 year warranty for the 800 motor.

I will see what I can find.

Dan

Yes, I realize it was only a one year warranty.

Let me know if you find the billing information on your computer.

Thanks,

Joel

Dan, I have a couple of questions for you...

What if any, are your feelings on a low ash vs. ash free oil formula???

Second, my crank bearings went bad (have a feeling they have been going for a bit), and the case halves have some light marks in the bearing journals. The shell of the bearing still fits snug (can't quantify with a measurement). What are your thoughts on using a small (read light skiff) of retaining compound on the case halves when I go to reinstall the crank into the case to help ensure that the bearing stays put?

Hey guys sorry I haven't been able to respond for awhile my room mate didn't bother paying the cable bill at the house so I haven't had internet in about a week.

Anyways ..

Dan I should have asked you about what to do for proper break-in on the motor. I have the Polaris VES oil in the oil reservoir and I dumped a quart in the gas tank as well. I will empty that out and go back to the dino-oil Blue stuff or the Castrol, whichever I can find.

I am hoping this won't be an issue as I don't even have 30 (like less than 4 hours running time I'd say) miles on the sled yet because my TPS sensor is hosed.

Anyways ...

I did get the sled out a little bit yesterday in some fresh snow ... due to the TPS sensor being hosed it was idling really low, but I let the sled sit there and idle for about 15 minutes before I hopped on it and started riding.

Apparently the dealer (should have known better ... *uhg*) I had put this back together for me pinched some wires because my temperature sensor is all over the damned place now too, as well as the TPS sensor being hosed .... The sled runs fine at half to wide open throttle, but anything below that it just cuts out at.

Anyways ... Everything as far as the motor goes I think is working really well .... Sled is holding 7800-8000 RPM at WOT on the trail and in the pow ... one thing I did notice however is my belt and clutch sheaves are getting REALLY hot. Clutch side of the sled is vented front and back ... SLP vents. I also noticed my top-speed was down from where it was last year to only about 75 mph, I could top the sled out on the trail at about 85 last year. Keep in mind this is still stock gearing.

I am thinking that perhaps the clutch is not fully shifting out and/or I need to run a different width belt, but I still have not had a chance to check the belt-to-sheave clearance or clutch alignment or anything. Hopefully this weekend.

I think probably before I put any more miles on the sled I'll follow the recomendation about the VES oil and get all that out of there then I might try to find a real sled shop around the Salt Lake City area that I can take the sled to and have them go over it and see what they can do, I really should have known better than to have a dealer put this back together for me. I thought they did good work but apparently I was wrong .... there is no reason at all this sled should have had any electrical problems whatsoever after I got it back from them.

Anyways, as soon as I can get the new TPS sensor in (it's ordered already) and installed (gonna go to radio shack today to get parts to make the tester) I'll work on the rest of it.

I don't think it's gonna take much to get everything working again ... I'd probably already know exactly what was going on with the clutch if the damned TPS sensor wasn't messed up

Anyways I'll let yall know how it goes ....

Wow speak of the devil I'm about ready to hit reply and Dan calls me ... .haha

Anyways I'll keep yall updated.