I have not done this on a PRO yet, but on some of the older sleds, I've run some cardboard between the driver and the track. That way at least you are not fighting the drive lug to track interface. With the belt drive it should be far less of an issue, as you have no seal to worry about. The other thing that gains you some room is to pull the lower snap ring and remove the bearing on the QD side. That will gain you almost an extra inch of room. You can also pull the whole case / bearing plate and re-glue it after reassembly.
Glad to hear you got it, wish I had seen the post earlier. Could have saved you uttering a string expletives.
Good method for oversize involute drivers. Makes it too easy for normal clearances. I use a piece about 14" wide and long enough for the OD of the drivers or more of "super slider" (kids rollup toboggan thingy). Roll it on and zap strap it for installation and roll it in and zap strap it for removal. Works well with the Poo center driver too.
Also use the track rigidity to pressure up into the tunnel front. Raise the sled high with a track stand. Drag the track under (for installation, for removal remove suspension then start)), grab the track with 2 tie-downs on the top about the correct point to make a 2' loop and pull the track towards the spindles, attach tie -downs to spindles and tighten the fold until the track end of the tie-downs is past the driveshaft holes in the tunnel.
Drop sled down (track actually supports the sled usually, sometimes it helps to put in more fuel, 4 strokes may force you to still use the track stand to support lol).
Do the two things and it's one man operation that goes like buddar.
