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Kurt's Polaris Gear Down Kit?

Reg2view

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OEMs run big gears on normally aspirated prod sleds since they have to be able to run at sea level with much more hp. Gearing down at higher elevation works with less hp.
 

800poodragon

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The new gear down kit we tested today is a ratio of 2.41 combo. That is currently the only available combination for this system. It produced significant temperature drop in both the primary/secondary drive belt and as Keith stated in his prior post a 30 - 40 degrees to the quick drive system.

Now many will be quick to state that is way to low of a gear ratio but we have tested many sleds side by side. This gear down system will keep your pro motor pulling consistent RPM's whether your taking deep powder pulls up hill, or tree flossing your way across a hillside. We even made multiple speed passes side by side with a stock pro 163 to Kurt's Polaris geared down pro 163 sled and found them to be vary close. Kurt's geared down pro had a much faster hole shoot and very snappy throttle response making quick rpm increase. (Almost like having a pipe).





I hope this answers a few of your questions.

But I assume that since you said " faster hole shoot and snappy throttle" it was slower still in the top end? That is gearing down quite abit. That can be good in "concrete" snow conditions but could be a sacrifice in lite powder in overall track speed? :crazy::typing::gossip::argue:
 

dktraw

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how much track speed are you guys wanting to see? if your wanting 60mph plus...put a turbo on....most N/A sleds are lucky to see over 50mph on steep and deep climbs anyway. so why not keep belt temps down and have instant throttle response. were riding mountain sleds after all not asphalt drag sleds. JMO i guess
 
P

pura vida

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Keith Curtis here.... after an entire day of testing Kurt's Polaris gear down kit on the 2014 PRO RMK here is what I found.

There were two sleds I tested. One was a 2014 PRO RMK 163 bone stock and there was another 2014 PRO RMK 163 with the Kurt's Polaris Gear down kit.

The strongest selling point of the gear down kit is belt cooling. After using a temperature laser gun the bone stock sled's drive belt and quick drive belt were anywhere from 40-90 degrees hotter after pulling the same side hills as the sled with Kurt's gear down kit.

The gear down kit also offered much quicker acceleration and the track speed was incredible while cutting across gnarly side hills!

In the end, Kurt's Polaris gear down kit works like a dream and it will extend the life of both belts by keeping the belts running cooler, plus adding performance to an already awesome sled.

Regards,

Keith

Excellent info. Thanks for actually post actual temp differences between the two different setups. Sure wish we could find those numbers for the blowhole...

PV
 

Scott

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I thought it was seely lake mt. Search time


Same dealer.

Seeley is the original store...Missoula is the second store, but much bigger and more flashy.
I use both stores, but honestly, I've had better luck with my friends at the Seeley shop. And that's where I take my boat for anything.
 

Scott

Scott Stiegler
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Keith Curtis here.... after an entire day of testing Kurt's Polaris gear down kit on the 2014 PRO RMK here is what I found.

There were two sleds I tested. One was a 2014 PRO RMK 163 bone stock and there was another 2014 PRO RMK 163 with the Kurt's Polaris Gear down kit.

The strongest selling point of the gear down kit is belt cooling. After using a temperature laser gun the bone stock sled's drive belt and quick drive belt were anywhere from 40-90 degrees hotter after pulling the same side hills as the sled with Kurt's gear down kit.

The gear down kit also offered much quicker acceleration and the track speed was incredible while cutting across gnarly side hills!

In the end, Kurt's Polaris gear down kit works like a dream and it will extend the life of both belts by keeping the belts running cooler, plus adding performance to an already awesome sled.

Regards,

Keith

Keith, were the two 2014 163s clutched the same? Only difference was gear-down kit?
 

Scott

Scott Stiegler
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But I assume that since you said " faster hole shoot and snappy throttle" it was slower still in the top end? That is gearing down quite abit. That can be good in "concrete" snow conditions but could be a sacrifice in lite powder in overall track speed? :crazy::typing::gossip::argue:

These things are geared in theory to go about 86mph on flat ground on a groomed trail (with supposed 21/44 gearing). WHO sees that track speed in the steep and deep? Let's say you geared it down (to 20/45) so that they only go 80mph...there are going to be HUGE bonuses...cooler temps, longer belt life (BOTH belts) and better grunt on the bottom. Easier to get and hold optimum RPM.

I see the value in gearing down and getting away from the 2.09 gearing. I've always been a fan of the 2.23 or so gears.

I'd like to hop on a Pro that's geared at 2.41.

You know what they say about the two bulls up on the hill watching the cows down below. Gearing down is like the old bull...takes longer to get there, but sure gets the job done a lot better.


Download this...you can change the variables in the blue boxes to get optimum track speed.
http://www.snowest.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=221037&d=1387155266
 
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Scott

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These things are geared in theory to go about 86mph on flat ground on a groomed trail (with supposed 21/44 gearing). WHO sees that track speed in the steep and deep? Let's say you geared it down (to 20/45) so that they only go 80mph...there are going to be HUGE bonuses...cooler temps, longer belt life (BOTH belts) and better grunt on the bottom. Easier to get and hold optimum RPM.

I see the value in gearing down and getting away from the 2.09 gearing. I've always been a fan of the 2.23 or so gears.

I'd like to hop on a Pro that's geared at 2.40.

You know what they say about the two bulls up on the hill watching the cows down below. Gearing down is like the old bull...takes longer to get there, but sure gets the job done a lot better.


Download this...you can change the variables in the blue boxes to get optimum track speed.
http://www.snowest.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=221037&d=1387155266

And to add to that...let's say you used the 21/44 gears, went with 7t drivers in a 3" pitch. You are only losing 1 mph to end speed (78.7mph)
 
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Scott

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How many teeth are in stock gearing? 21-43?

What gear combo gets you to 2.41?
 

800poodragon

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These things are geared in theory to go about 86mph on flat ground on a groomed trail (with supposed 21/44 gearing). WHO sees that track speed in the steep and deep? Let's say you geared it down (to 20/45) so that they only go 80mph...there are going to be HUGE bonuses...cooler temps, longer belt life (BOTH belts) and better grunt on the bottom. Easier to get and hold optimum RPM.

I see the value in gearing down and getting away from the 2.09 gearing. I've always been a fan of the 2.23 or so gears.

I'd like to hop on a Pro that's geared at 2.41.

You know what they say about the two bulls up on the hill watching the cows down below. Gearing down is like the old bull...takes longer to get there, but sure gets the job done a lot better.


Download this...you can change the variables in the blue boxes to get optimum track speed.
http://www.snowest.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=221037&d=1387155266


I do agree about gearing it down and believe it helps. I just geared down my 12 to 2.25 with the TKI belt drive. Hope to try it Friday.
 

BlowinSmoke

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So I have posted a picture to show some differences between the OEM Polaris quick drive gears and Kurt's Polaris gears.

Let's start with the OEM gear setup. Now if you will study the OEM quick drive pulley and belt. You will see the cogs are large with a separation between them of around 11mm. This only allows 28 belt cogs to make surface contact with the bottom pulley when install on a pro rmk chassis.

Now let's study the photo with Kurt's gear down pulley system. You will notice the belt cogs are smaller with a much smaller separation between them. By doing so, this allows 38 belt cogs to make surface contact with the bottom pulley when installed. This is a more efficient way to transfer power through the drive system reducing friction which translates to heat.

This is only a small part that completes this system and it's purpose. We all have to realize that gearing a chain case system and a belt drive system is in theory accomplishing the same thing but do to less rotating mass and friction that is not actually the case. ( In my opinion it's like comparing a team 04ss clutch with a team tied clutch. They both us different helix angle to accomplish the same end result)

I hope this helps and thanks for looking....

image.jpg
 

Scott

Scott Stiegler
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So I have posted a picture to show some differences between the OEM Polaris quick drive gears and Kurt's Polaris gears.

Let's start with the OEM gear setup. Now if you will study the OEM quick drive pulley and belt. You will see the cogs are large with a separation between them of around 11mm. This only allows 28 belt cogs to make surface contact with the bottom pulley when install on a pro rmk chassis.

Now let's study the photo with Kurt's gear down pulley system. You will notice the belt cogs are smaller with a much smaller separation between them. By doing so, this allows 38 belt cogs to make surface contact with the bottom pulley when installed. This is a more efficient way to transfer power through the drive system reducing friction which translates to heat.

This is only a small part that completes this system and it's purpose. We all have to realize that gearing a chain case system and a belt drive system is in theory accomplishing the same thing but do to less rotating mass and friction that is not actually the case. ( In my opinion it's like comparing a team 04ss clutch with a team tied clutch. They both us different helix angle to accomplish the same end result)

I hope this helps and thanks for looking....

Have you revealed how you achieve the 2.41 gear ratio?
 

Old Scud-doo

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well a 17 x 41 gives you a 2.41 ratio.

My question.....and I know this is a mtn. sled...but if top speed is calculated at 73.02 mph with the 2.41 and almost 84ish with stock. How does it go down the trail? Unless you are lucky like a few people on here you have to ride trails into where you play. That can be tough if you are running really high rpm's.

So instead of saying it's too low I would like to hear from somebody that has had it on the trail.
 

Teth-Air

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well a 17 x 41 gives you a 2.41 ratio.

My question.....and I know this is a mtn. sled...but if top speed is calculated at 73.02 mph with the 2.41 and almost 84ish with stock. How does it go down the trail? Unless you are lucky like a few people on here you have to ride trails into where you play. That can be tough if you are running really high rpm's.

So instead of saying it's too low I would like to hear from somebody that has had it on the trail.

I had 2.42:1 on the trail and it felt like my 14 163 was over revving and it felt slow. Maybe more clutch weight would have fixed this but going back to 2.25:1 felt much better.
 

Old Scud-doo

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That's kind of what I was thinking it would be like. I am sure it performs well in the application it is designed for. It's a lot of $ to lay down to find out you are running pretty high r's on the trail getting to the play areas.
 
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