• Don't miss out on all the fun! Register on our forums to post and have added features! Membership levels include a FREE membership tier.

05 Fusion VR removal/install

S
Oct 3, 2008
352
109
43
54
Quebec, Canada
Anyone have any tips for VR removal/install?

It looks like it bolts on from the bottom of the tunnel.

Can I access it if I put the sled on the side or do I need to drop the skid?
 
S
Oct 3, 2008
352
109
43
54
Quebec, Canada
still looking for the info if someone has it out of curiosity but I've validated that the VR isn't my problem. I unplugged the old VR, plugged in the new one without actually mounting it and found that my problem wasn't resolved....Back to the drawing board.

I imagine that you are now wondering what my problem was....well sled starts and runs great but has no electronics (i.e., no lights, mfd, hand/thumb warmers). I ohmed out the stator and other than getting 0.3 across the charge coils vice the manual identified readings of 0.13 ohms +- 10% everything checks out. I have another stator and got the same measurements so despite being out of tolerance, I do think it works. I also checked all connections and everything looks ok. If i put voltage to the light diagnostic plug, all lights/mfd work so I'm ruling out a short or bad wiring.

Next I'm going to open the stator and have a look. Apply 12 V to the lights diagnostic and check voltage at VR plug to see if voltage is there; if so, then maybe something is up with the stator.

If anyone has any other suggestions please provide them.
 
S
Mar 21, 2011
61
13
8
Did you try applying external 12 volts to the lights while the sled was running? the relay in the loop may be isolating a short when when the sled is not running... Just a shot in the dark...

Still waiting on my regulator to arrive, I'm curious as well hot best to remove the old one, mine is riveted in there is and no way to get a drill near the rivets...
 
S
Oct 3, 2008
352
109
43
54
Quebec, Canada
FYI...just applied voltage to the light diagnostic connector and found the following:
1. it bypasses the relay because lights function without the relay
2. it won't work without at least some of the VR connections made (not sure which one)
3. I do read a voltage on the orange plugs that provide the brake lights power (not terribly surprised since the brake light works)


I'm going to try the relay in another sled to verify operation prior to opening the stator up.
 
S
Oct 3, 2008
352
109
43
54
Quebec, Canada
wrt VR removal, I'm pretty glad I don't appear to have to do it! It looks like you need to drop the skid, pull the track out of the tunnel and you might be able to get at the rivets! Guess it's not designed to fail!

Looking to hear from anyone that has done this before.

Shum - I highly recommend plugging the new VR in prior to verify it's the weak link prior to changing it
 
S
Oct 3, 2008
352
109
43
54
Quebec, Canada
put the relay from the sled that is down into another sled and no lights! swapped the original relay back in and lights! It appears that the relay is bad! I wish I had known the light diag port bypassed the relay....I figured it went through the relay which led me to believe the relay was good.

Now I'm going to put the sled with the bad relay back together and try the good relay. I'm optimistic that it will work...
 
S
Mar 21, 2011
61
13
8
Awesome, glad you got it fixed... wanna come work on mine now :)

I planned on testing out the regulator before I tore the old one out... If it isn't the regulator though It is a short somewhere on the chassis, I have already replaced everything else...

There is a test for the relay if you don't have a second one handy... Disconnect all connectors and test for ohms 85 to 86, check both polarites as it should be the same. Check ohms between 87 and 30, should be open. Apply 12 volts to 86 and ground to 85, check ohms between 87 and 30, should be close to zero, some resistance is OK, but not too much. You might not hear the click of the relay, but you should be able to feel it from holding on while you attach ground.

Glad your back running.
 
S
Oct 3, 2008
352
109
43
54
Quebec, Canada
thanks for the heads up re: the relay test. I'll keep that in mind. My fundamental mistake was to assume the light diag port would use the relay....

I'm fortunate (some people might view this differently) that I have 5 05 900 fusions kind of....I have one, I've got a buddy who keeps his at my house. I've got another buddy that I work with and ride with regularly (it's his that I'm working on now) and my brother has two.

For you nay sayers against the 900, the one I'm working on now has over 10k km and this is the first issue we've had (faulty relay).

I got mine with a new engine at about 700km and I'm just coming up to 10k km now. I've a few issues with mine along the way...some resulting from murphy's law, some from faulty workmanship and some from 900 issues. I think I've got it pretty much in order now. A summary of my issues include:
1. recoil bolts backed out causing recoil to come off and get chewed up requiring another one (use locktite on 900 bolts)
2. broke a belt at WOT and the belt got wedged in behind the primary breaking the PTO seal resulting in high idle. Drove for another 400km that weekend and then broke it down and replaced the seal.
3. flywheel separated taking out the stator. New stator and used epoxy on the flywheel to prevent from happening again.
4. loose suspension bolt resulted in wearing a hole through the upper spindle bolt hole. New 2010 dragon spindles....
5. changed TPS and TPS harness as precaution...no issues
6. relay was corroded and lost lights...cleaned and put back in...no further issues
7. brake light switch went once
8. white connector coming from relay on sled side uses compression fit to provide power to brake light and was corroded....removed, cleaned and re-installed. no further issues.
9. Fuel rail developed a crack in a weld due to missing bolt and 900 vibes....new fuel rail installed, replaced bolt and no further issues.


That's it.
 
Premium Features