If you don't mind me asking, why did you have to clicker down one? Or didn't you have to?
HPS can
- Thread starter KLD
- Start date
If you don't mind me asking, why did you have to clicker down one? Or didn't you have to?
M
Love my new hps can on 850. Installed in 45 min and i have no mechanical skills. Sounds great.
To drop RPM down.
clickers do not work like that on the pdrive...no effect on top rpm
courtesy of rotaxkid and dynamoe joe
Dynamo Joe's found the same results via his website -
Clicker position is NOT for changing engine speed at full throttle
(NOTE - I will post force diagrams of different clicker positions to show what the positions do on the upshift and "Track speed" (shift ratio) AND engine speed change)
The clicker only changes the way the clutch pushes off the very bottom end.
You can make the clutch feel "revvy" or "less revvy" being more aggressive.
You must change engine speed with pivot bolt weight - THEE END
The clickers are NOT there to change engine speed like the older TRA.
If you put the clicker down to #1 it will be the most revvy....and still 7900-8000
If you put the clicker up to #5 it will be the least revvy, most aggressive...and still 7900-8000
If you are running say 8100 with 14.7 grams pivot then no matter what clicker you are on, you must add 1 full gram and go to 15.7 grams pivot to push the engine speed down to 7900
QUOTE BRP MANUAL
In position 1 and 2 the engine will reach its peak power rpm very quickly with some overshoot. This means that the drive clutch will apply less pressure on the belt in its transition between engagement speed and peak rpms. This could be desirable in fluffy snow conditions that offer little traction.
Position 3 represents a good all-around position where there is only minimal rpm overshoot. This position should give good vehicle acceleration in the normal snow conditions.
In position 4 and 5 the clutch will clamp the belt very early after engagement, slowing down the climb in rpm. This can be beneficial in wet snow where a lot of traction is available.
Definitely not trying to burn you at the stake here...new design, new quirks..we're all learning something each time we go out and I'm sure the P85 guys are laughing at our revelations! ALl about generating more conversation so we can all learn.
Dynamo Joe's found the same results via his website -
Clicker position is NOT for changing engine speed at full throttle
(NOTE - I will post force diagrams of different clicker positions to show what the positions do on the upshift and "Track speed" (shift ratio) AND engine speed change)
The clicker only changes the way the clutch pushes off the very bottom end.
You can make the clutch feel "revvy" or "less revvy" being more aggressive.
You must change engine speed with pivot bolt weight - THEE END
The clickers are NOT there to change engine speed like the older TRA.
If you put the clicker down to #1 it will be the most revvy....and still 7900-8000
If you put the clicker up to #5 it will be the least revvy, most aggressive...and still 7900-8000
If you are running say 8100 with 14.7 grams pivot then no matter what clicker you are on, you must add 1 full gram and go to 15.7 grams pivot to push the engine speed down to 7900
QUOTE BRP MANUAL
In position 1 and 2 the engine will reach its peak power rpm very quickly with some overshoot. This means that the drive clutch will apply less pressure on the belt in its transition between engagement speed and peak rpms. This could be desirable in fluffy snow conditions that offer little traction.
Position 3 represents a good all-around position where there is only minimal rpm overshoot. This position should give good vehicle acceleration in the normal snow conditions.
In position 4 and 5 the clutch will clamp the belt very early after engagement, slowing down the climb in rpm. This can be beneficial in wet snow where a lot of traction is available.
Definitely not trying to burn you at the stake here...new design, new quirks..we're all learning something each time we go out and I'm sure the P85 guys are laughing at our revelations! ALl about generating more conversation so we can all learn.
According to the dealer the clickers change max RPM's by 200 per position, so when i saw 8450 recorded on my gauge i did a little test. My experience was max recorded RPM in position 4 was 8450, in position 3, dropped almost exactly 200 RPM, in position 2 dropped almost exactly 200 RPM to 8050. For most accurate results, test was done at 2800', on groomed trail, and RPM zeroed out each time. Multiple runs done at each setting. I don't care what anyone tells me, the clicker setting does change max RPM.
I
Re
Max rpm, and your running rpm are completely different. Find a safe stretch you can watch your gauge while wot. Max rpm is honestly a worthless feature.
Max rpm, and your running rpm are completely different. Find a safe stretch you can watch your gauge while wot. Max rpm is honestly a worthless feature.
P
Max and running RPM should be close or your clutching is way of , usually you have a bit of a spike especially on trails.
You two seem to talk past one an other a bit, he did multiple runs testing different clickers. The read out will still show Max RPM at 8450 unless you clear your ECU . I Doubt it clears every time you shut down your engine. What I cal max RPM is where it shifts out at wide open throttle on a long pull--not the spikes you get when the track spins out on ice.
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I
Re
All I can say is trust me! Just watch the rpm gauge for yourself when safe to do so. I have experience with three so far that are all very close to 150 rpm shy of what the max shows on a pull. Every CVT clutch slips to an extent. It wouldn't be able to shift otherwise.
All I can say is trust me! Just watch the rpm gauge for yourself when safe to do so. I have experience with three so far that are all very close to 150 rpm shy of what the max shows on a pull. Every CVT clutch slips to an extent. It wouldn't be able to shift otherwise.
R
Max RPM
Yes Max RPM on the gauge is not right! Look at the RPM as you run.
Yes Max RPM on the gauge is not right! Look at the RPM as you run.
Post #25
Owners manual page 142 states that "the adjustable drive pulley allows setting maximum engine RPM to maintain maximum engine power. Ramp cams should be adjusted so that the actual maximum engine RPM matches the maximum horsepower RPM."
Shop manual Rev G4 section 06 subsection 2 adjustment bottom of page 314: "The adjustable drive pulley allows setting maximum engine RPM in the vehicle to maintain maximum power. The adjustment has an effect on high RPM only".
This info should be in a clutch thread but it is relevant to adjusting RPM. Since the engine has to operate at different elevations and it loses power with an elevation increase it would make sense that the manufacturer would design a clutch that could be adjusted to keep the engine at 7900 +/- 100 RPM. Last week I dropped my sled (which is still in break in 59% remaining) from clicker 3 to 1 and the clutch held engine RPM steady at 8000 RPM WOT from about 20 km to 122 km at an elevation of 700m/2300' on two back to back runs on a frozen river with just enough snow for traction and lubrication. The sled was not taken any higher speed wise because of safety, not top end. Primary clutch used all except the top 1/2" of the pulley as scribed with a black marker, no rubber from the belt.
The clickers work to control top engine RPM as described in the factory manual for me. Perhaps someone should let skidoo engineers know that they don't know how their clutch clickers work??:der:
Owners manual page 142 states that "the adjustable drive pulley allows setting maximum engine RPM to maintain maximum engine power. Ramp cams should be adjusted so that the actual maximum engine RPM matches the maximum horsepower RPM."
Shop manual Rev G4 section 06 subsection 2 adjustment bottom of page 314: "The adjustable drive pulley allows setting maximum engine RPM in the vehicle to maintain maximum power. The adjustment has an effect on high RPM only".
This info should be in a clutch thread but it is relevant to adjusting RPM. Since the engine has to operate at different elevations and it loses power with an elevation increase it would make sense that the manufacturer would design a clutch that could be adjusted to keep the engine at 7900 +/- 100 RPM. Last week I dropped my sled (which is still in break in 59% remaining) from clicker 3 to 1 and the clutch held engine RPM steady at 8000 RPM WOT from about 20 km to 122 km at an elevation of 700m/2300' on two back to back runs on a frozen river with just enough snow for traction and lubrication. The sled was not taken any higher speed wise because of safety, not top end. Primary clutch used all except the top 1/2" of the pulley as scribed with a black marker, no rubber from the belt.
The clickers work to control top engine RPM as described in the factory manual for me. Perhaps someone should let skidoo engineers know that they don't know how their clutch clickers work??:der:
I
Back to the topic - Not the clicker Hijack 
This is what I was referring to;
This is what I was referring to;
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C
Wrong! Clutching does not lie! If you make a change like add a can and you go down a clicker, than you made power. I went down a clicker on my 13, and I added 1 gram of weight this weekend after installing my HPS on my 16 xm. The big problem is that guys do not pay attention to their sled, meaning that a can goes on it right away when is brand new. Does HPS work! Yes, does it make more power, well my testing says yes on two different sleds and occasions.
I've been out with five 850's this season, all have been stock until yesterday I rode with one that had an HPS can. The rest of the guys are waiting for SLP to release whatever they'll be making. Anyhow, I've really liked those times when I've rode the new 850, but the 850 with the HPS really surprised me. The low and mid was fantastic and the response in the tight trees was excellent. The HPS sled was noticably quicker than stock. I haven't rode a sled that loud since my '03 Edge with race pipes. It's loud!
Anyhow, my ride is an Axys with BD turbo, but I've had fun riding these new Doo's. The HPS can is loud but it wakes up the sled for sure.
Have fun guys
Anyhow, my ride is an Axys with BD turbo, but I've had fun riding these new Doo's. The HPS can is loud but it wakes up the sled for sure.
Have fun guys
S
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S
I'm no mechanic but wouldn't less back pressure enable you to get higher RPM, not necessarily because of more HP?
Less resistance (back pressure) = more RPM.
Anyone have a good price for them?
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K
Independent Test Results
I recently tested the HPS Can for the 850. I really liked it. Check out my video (a little boring). Not sure if it will get louder, but for now it is roughly 10% louder than stock and legal! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r4b2F8cgdUo
I recently tested the HPS Can for the 850. I really liked it. Check out my video (a little boring). Not sure if it will get louder, but for now it is roughly 10% louder than stock and legal! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r4b2F8cgdUo
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