Wyo Steering Mod - my installation and review

Jacob02 · Dec 22, 2015

**FIRST OFF - do NOT use longer TIE-RODS**** Explanation below:

We installed a Wyo Steering Mod bracket that I purchased from Kmod / B&M Fabrications onto a 2015 HCR Pro-Climb with a 28" Cat kit and a 2016 Pro-Climb.

First off - if you're scared of touching your sled and or violating it down to it's core... don't buy this mod. It gets a little overwhelming tearing certain things apart. Especially when antifreeze starts running everywhere and aluminum shavings start flying.

Overall, the YouTube video does a decent job of highlighting everything.

1. Take the hood and sides off.
2. Take the bumper off.
3. Take the skid cover off the bottom and plastic nose shield.
4. Take the pipe-temp probe and exhaust out.
5. Take the Y-Pipe out.
6. Take the ECU cover and ECU out.
7. Take the airbox seal out - it may need to be cut out because it's glued.
8. Take the boot covers off the front and slide them out of the way.
9. Loosen the clamps on the throttle bodies and airbox. Remove the servo-deal for the exhaust and aluminum cross bar.
10. Twist the airbox out and remove the coolant line. Antifreeze will run everywhere. Good luck catching it.
11. Twist the throttle body out and push it to the top side. (Make sure you disconnect the throttle and oil pump lever first)
12. Take the steering column out and set it off to the side.
13. Take the tie-rods out of the stock steering bracket.
14. Take the stock steering bracket out.
15. Tape up and cover the exhaust and throttle holes.
16. Cut out the aluminum threshold by the boot. Go within 1/4" of where the boot covers rivet. This provides plenty of distance when the a-arm are compressed up. Cut the aluminum brace that the steering bracket sits under.
17. USE THE ORIGINAL TIE-RODS. I do not suggest using longer. You can't achieve 1/2" TOE OUT with the longer tie-rods.
18. Do everything else in reverse now. Left side goes on top. Right side on bottom.
19. Do everything in reverse.

Yes - I know this is condensed and missing a lot of detail. Just a quick fore-warning... it's not a quick job.

Again - on both the 2016 and 2015 to achieve 1/2" of toe-out we had to use the original tie-rods. The one size larger did not allow us to achieve toe-out.

clharris · Dec 22, 2015

It wasn't that bad was it ?, big ? To come is it worth it !!??, can't wait to try it out , glad you are trying it first Jake !

Jacob02 · Dec 22, 2015

clharris said:
It wasn't that bad was it ?, big ? To come is it worth it !!??, can't wait to try it out , glad you are trying it first Jake !

I'll be the first to let you know Curt!

Vertical-Extreme · Dec 22, 2015

Why are you trying to set your toe out at 1/2 inch ? 1/16-1/4 inch is spec

Jacob02 · Dec 22, 2015

Whatever toe out YOU want to run is fine... but you can't achieve any toe out with the longer tie rods. The best I could do is 1/16" toe in with the tie rods bottomed out on both sides.

WyoBoy1000 · Dec 22, 2015

Jacob02 said:
Whatever toe out YOU want to run is fine... but you can't achieve any toe out with the longer tie rods. The best I could do is 1/16" toe in with the tie rods bottomed out on both sides.

Your better off cutting down the longer rods than using the short rods. You only need to take about a 1/4" off one side of each rod to get a 1/2" toe out. Which seems like a lot to me but to each their own.

It is a bit of a project but the performance is worth it, a good par of hose crimping plyers is worth it when doing this to crimp the antifreeze line on both sides of the throttle bodies

Jacob02 · Dec 22, 2015

WyoBoy1000 said:
Your better off cutting down the longer rods than using the short rods. You only need to take about a 1/4" off one side of each rod to get a 1/2" toe out. Which seems like a lot to me but to each their own.

It is a bit of a project but the performance is worth it, a good par of hose crimping plyers is worth it when doing this to crimp the antifreeze line on both sides of the throttle bodies

You run a 1/4" toe out?

Scott · Dec 22, 2015

Jacob02 said:
You run a 1/4" toe out?

Yes. Feels FAR better than toe in. Believe me.

Jacob02 · Dec 22, 2015

Scott said:
Yes. Feels FAR better than toe in. Believe me.

But 1/2" toe out is too much? Where are you measuring from?

05M7 · Dec 22, 2015

I did it to my m8 before I sold it. Definitely more time consuming than one thinks. I never got to ride it but I'll be putting one on my viper in a couple weeks. I also took the longer tie rods to the grinder and took off a half inch off each and got my 1/8in toe out on each ski.

WyoBoy1000 · Dec 23, 2015

Jacob02 said:
You run a 1/4" toe out?

No, I run about a 1/8" toe out if that. Don't have any issues.

But I think your asking if cutting gets a 1/4" out. if you cut a 1/4" off each side it adds up to 1/2" and I was able to get 1/4" toe out with long rods if you install them right.

Thread the inner tie rod all the way, then take the tie rod out of the spindle and thread it all the way, then bolt it in the spindle.

But I have seen some pretty big differences in the sled, some fit perfect and some don't even though the brackets are all the same. Pretty crazy how much different one sled can measure from another so I'm not going to give anything as a fact. The spec must be if its within 1/4" (either side of spec) its good. lol

Jacob02 · Dec 23, 2015

WyoBoy1000 said:
No, I run about a 1/8" toe out if that. Don't have any issues.

But I think your asking if cutting gets a 1/4" out. if you cut a 1/4" off each side it adds up to 1/2" and I was able to get 1/4" toe out with long rods if you install them right.

Thread the inner tie rod all the way, then take the tie rod out of the spindle and thread it all the way, then bolt it in the spindle.

But I have seen some pretty big differences in the sled, some fit perfect and some don't even though the brackets are all the same. Pretty crazy how much different one sled can measure from another so I'm not going to give anything as a fact. The spec must be if its within 1/4" (either side of spec) its good. lol

I'm at 3/8" toe out now from the back of the ski to the part of ski before it loops up. I suppose it matters where you measure from.

I'm afraid to toe it in anymore because I don't think I have many threads left on the tie rods Heim.

Everything else fit fine. The install went the same on the 2015 and 2016.

High Life · Dec 23, 2015

Jacob02 said:
**FIRST OFF - do NOT use longer TIE-RODS**** Explanation below:

We installed a Wyo Steering Mod bracket that I purchased from Kmod / B&M Fabrications onto a 2015 HCR Pro-Climb with a 28" Cat kit and a 2016 Pro-Climb.

First off - if you're scared of touching your sled and or violating it down to it's core... don't buy this mod. It gets a little overwhelming tearing certain things apart. Especially when antifreeze starts running everywhere and aluminum shavings start flying.

Overall, the YouTube video does a decent job of highlighting everything.

1. Take the hood and sides off.
2. Take the bumper off.
3. Take the skid cover off the bottom and plastic nose shield.
4. Take the pipe-temp probe and exhaust out.
5. Take the Y-Pipe out.
6. Take the ECU cover and ECU out.
7. Take the airbox seal out - it may need to be cut out because it's glued.
8. Take the boot covers off the front and slide them out of the way.
9. Loosen the clamps on the throttle bodies and airbox. Remove the servo-deal for the exhaust and aluminum cross bar.
10. Twist the airbox out and remove the coolant line. Antifreeze will run everywhere. Good luck catching it.
11. Twist the throttle body out and push it to the top side. (Make sure you disconnect the throttle and oil pump lever first)
12. Take the steering column out and set it off to the side.
13. Take the tie-rods out of the stock steering bracket.
14. Take the stock steering bracket out.
15. Tape up and cover the exhaust and throttle holes.
16. Cut out the aluminum threshold by the boot. Go within 1/4" of where the boot covers rivet. This provides plenty of distance when the a-arm are compressed up. Cut the aluminum brace that the steering bracket sits under.
17. USE THE ORIGINAL TIE-RODS. I do not suggest using longer. You can't achieve 1/2" TOE OUT with the longer tie-rods.
18. Do everything else in reverse now. Left side goes on top. Right side on bottom.
19. Do everything in reverse.

Yes - I know this is condensed and missing a lot of detail. Just a quick fore-warning... it's not a quick job.

Again - on both the 2016 and 2015 to achieve 1/2" of toe-out we had to use the original tie-rods. The one size larger did not allow us to achieve toe-out.

I hear ya. I'm currently installing this arm on my 2013. I expected some work, but forgot how many things are in the way that you have to remove to work on anything. I was able to avoid removing my Y pipe.

The 36" Alt. Impact front end is also getting installed at the same time so I didn't know what tie rods I would need. Original tie rods are for a 38" stance, Alt. Impact kit narrows things to a 36" stance (needs shorter tie rods), Wyo steering bracket recommends longer tie rods so I thought there was a chance my original 38" tie rods would work. Nope. I have a severe toe in (2-3" toe in). Now I am scrambling for 36" tie rods...BUT, I am thinking I might be able to just trim my stock 38" rods down. Here's my questions;
How much shorter are the tie rods for a 36" front end vs. a 38" front end? (Wyo's YouTube install video makes it look like about an inch?)
Can I cut my stock 38" tie rods down to the length for a 36"?
If I cut the tie rods down, do I also need to shorten/cut the threaded portion of the tie rod ends? Is it possible to cut more internal threads on the end of the shortened tie rod?

I know my install probably isn't the standard one, but any help would be appreciated.

Thanks!

donaldej · Dec 23, 2015

I just did this mod when i went to the arctic cat 36 on my 15 proclimb and the 38 tie rods worked perfect. Still have about 3 threads to add more toe out which I don't need. One thing to watch, I found when turning right my tie rod would almost hit the shock and there was enough slop so I think turning in the snow would drive the rod against the shock. I fixed this by shorting the left tie as short as it would go. Then with left ski where you want it i adjusting my steering staight then the right ski. This will engage the stop when turning right a bit sooner and stop the tie rod from hitting the shock.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

WyoBoy1000 · Dec 23, 2015

Jacob02 said:
I'm at 3/8" toe out now from the back of the ski to the part of ski before it loops up. I suppose it matters where you measure from.

I'm afraid to toe it in anymore because I don't think I have many threads left on the tie rods Heim.

Everything else fit fine. The install went the same on the 2015 and 2016.

Measure the skag bolts front and back just to see where you are, most ppl prefer at least 1/8 out if you push skis together then if you push apart it's about 1/4.

WyoBoy1000 · Dec 23, 2015

On my 16 I used 38 rods, nothing hits but it's close and has never hit

kipperdavis · Dec 23, 2015

I will be trying my steering mod out next weekend. I also put the 2016 36" front end on with 38" rods and the new cat mountain ski's. It definitely steers a lot sharper in the garage!

runner · Dec 24, 2015

Can I cut my stock 38" tie rods down to the length for a 36"?
If I cut the tie rods down, do I also need to shorten/cut the threaded portion of the tie rod ends? Is it possible to cut more internal threads on the end of the shortened tie rod?

Yes, use a 11/32 drill bit and drill the rod end that has right hand threads, drill as deep as the drill bit is then cut off how much you want. From there you will need a M10x1.25 tap to make the new threads.
Of course if you have both right and left taps you can shorten both ends less.
Just drill deeper before you cut off the piece, it will centre the drill better.

High Life · Dec 24, 2015

Thanks runner! I looked at things again last night and realized my M10 x 1.25 tap wasn't going to work for the left hand threads...but I guess I could only shorten them on the end that has right hand threads. I found tie rods for a 36" front end at a nearby dealer and have decided for $24 I will just go that route and be done with it.

High Life · Dec 24, 2015

kipperdavis said:
I will be trying my steering mod out next weekend. I also put the 2016 36" front end on with 38" rods and the new cat mountain ski's. It definitely steers a lot sharper in the garage!

Interesting. I guess the with the Alternative Impact 36" kit moving the spindle forward makes a big difference in the tie rod geometry. There's no way the 38" rods will work on my setup without cutting them down about a 1/2" on each one.

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