hello from a newbie and questions

blueyoda · Feb 3, 2014

Hello all. Just picked up an 03 800 vertical edge with 960 original miles! Was owned by a former polaris dealer and sat in his garage for most of it's life. Now for the questions.
1. Big bearing upgrade was done almost right away, is that all for now?
2. Valves are stock, what do i need to do to keep them running right? Change because they are aluminum?
3. What is the factory gear ratio in the chain case for 151 track, can i regear for towing a heavy sleigh?
4. Can i put a mechanical reverse if i cannot find a perc kit.
Thanks in advance for any help.

blueyoda · Feb 4, 2014

Are my questions to dumb? or is this the newbie treatment?

whoisthatguy · Feb 4, 2014

The weak point is the front left engine mounting tearing off every 500 miles. This causes the engine to twist and the PTO bearing to wear faster.

Of course, not having a drain inside below the PTO side piston, to funnel oil to the PTO bearing, was a major screwup in the crankcase design as well. If you ever have the engine apart, you would want to drill that hole into the upper crankcase half.

The titanium valves were the bad ones.

Mountain riders requires more teeth in the lower sprocket, in order to gear it down.

Towing will stress the tunnel and tear it off where a differential temperature induced crack currently is probably already growing. That crack can be reinforced with a 3/4" x 3/4" x 1/8" x 4" long aluminum angle that is structural riveted to span the crack. 4 rivets required. Then bevel the square rear edge of the tube assembly on each side of the footrests. The square edge produces a rapid temperature gradient in the adjacent tunnel, that induces a stress crack at that location.

I thought 03's came with the electronic reverse kit. I would look for a used kit that came off of an 03, if I were you.

blueyoda · Feb 4, 2014

Thanks for the input. I know about changing gears, I swapped the 19t to an 18t driver gear on my gen 2 600 rmk. I was just wondering if the gear ratio was near max for the case already.

I would love some more info on the stress points. This sled is used for trapping and fishing so it will have a lot of stress on the rear tunnel from gear.
I can re-enforce any spot, just need to know where.

is there anything I can do to re-enforce the engine mount area? Extra brace?

Thanks again

rdr99 · Feb 4, 2014

SLP used to carry a brace, maybe they still do? You could also go to a five mount motor plate, Power Addiction or FTX carry them. I ran a 43 bottom tooth in my chaincase, was a little tight around the gasket, but it fit.

blueyoda · Feb 4, 2014

Thanks again. Just called my local dealer and they told me the stock gear setup was 21-39. That leaves lots of room to play! Not looking to break any speed records, just pull like a tractor up to 80 mph ish.

whoisthatguy · Feb 4, 2014

A camoplast extreme track upgrade, is about 50 to 70% more efficient than the series 4 that you have. Whiplash becomes an issue with a track upgrade.

blueyoda · Feb 5, 2014

Thanks for all the help. One last question, can I use any mechanical reverse from an edge chassis? I can pick up an 01 xc8 full kit, just have to know if it will work.

Kraven · Feb 5, 2014

whoisthatguy said:
The weak point is the front left engine mounting tearing off every 500 miles. This causes the engine to twist and the PTO bearing to wear faster.

Of course, not having a drain inside below the PTO side piston, to funnel oil to the PTO bearing, was a major screwup in the crankcase design as well. If you ever have the engine apart, you would want to drill that hole into the upper crankcase half.

The titanium valves were the bad ones.

Mountain riders requires more teeth in the lower sprocket, in order to gear it down.

Towing will stress the tunnel and tear it off where a differential temperature induced crack currently is probably already growing. That crack can be reinforced with a 3/4" x 3/4" x 1/8" x 4" long aluminum angle that is structural riveted to span the crack. 4 rivets required. Then bevel the square rear edge of the tube assembly on each side of the footrests. The square edge produces a rapid temperature gradient in the adjacent tunnel, that induces a stress crack at that location.

I thought 03's came with the electronic reverse kit. I would look for a used kit that came off of an 03, if I were you.

1) The original ex valves were the bad ones, ALUMINUM

2) They were superceded by the TITANIUM

3) And then superceded by the current latest & greatest ones ,which are STAINLESS STEEL (Comes as a kit with different orange bellows & diff springs)

Kraven · Feb 5, 2014

blueyoda said:
Hello all. Just picked up an 03 800 vertical edge with 960 original miles! Was owned by a former polaris dealer and sat in his garage for most of it's life. Now for the questions.
1. Big bearing upgrade was done almost right away, is that all for now?
2. Valves are stock, what do i need to do to keep them running right? Change because they are aluminum?
3. What is the factory gear ratio in the chain case for 151 track, can i regear for towing a heavy sleigh?
4. Can i put a mechanical reverse if i cannot find a perc kit.
Thanks in advance for any help.

Remove the clutch and send it out be be balanced

place a dial indicator on the crank snout, look for .002" or less of run-out

Get the STAINLESS EXHAUST VALVES, comes as a kit with new orange bellows and different springs

I hva e TECH TIPS thread on here, will locate it and bring it to the top for you

blueyoda · Feb 5, 2014

You guys have been great. Still need to know about the mechanical reverse if anyone can chime in.

I will look to get the stainless valves this summer, this sled will see 95% of it's life at less than half throttle so I am not worried about a few months of use before the clutch balance and valve change.

I know a lot of what I am doing is blasphemy to the light weight premise but this sled is being converted to a deep snow work horse that some of you may appreciate.

Thanks again.

sno*jet · Feb 6, 2014

id just drop a tooth on upper gear and ride it. i believe you can go 19/43 too if you want really low gears. if the bars arent raised theres your best investment. a 3" from ole's machine will work with stock cables if you re-route and bend the brake line slighty.
http://www.olesmachine.com/polaris.htm

blueyoda · Feb 6, 2014

Ya, got a 2" rise now. Just put on a high windshield but have some brake lever interference at full right stop. Looking for a reverse kit and some seem to have a 19 driver that would be perfect. Might have to loose a link in the chain if I stay with the 39 bottom, might just go to 41 to not have to change the chain.

Reverse, tunnel re-enforcement and light weight utility box to come. I'll post some pics of the extreme fishing machine when done!!!

winter4ever · Feb 6, 2014

Another thing to consider is your carburetor settings, if you are going to be doing a lot of running at consistent throttle speeds of half or less. You want to make sure she is getting lots of fuel so you don't squeak the motor. Figure out your elevation then set your jetting,needle position and pilots on the safe side of polaris spec.

When these things burn down due to lean conditions its almost always at the half throttle position. :beer;

blueyoda · Feb 6, 2014

Thanks, we have a saying around here, plugs are cheaper than pistons! I will check the settings and cross ref for my alt, which is only 1100 feet. My best friend bought a 05 rmk 600 a few years back. Came from out west and he was told the jets were done. Ran great for the first few weeks (cause he was cranking on it, being new and all), soon as he started to drive it normal it took out the crank. Main was changed, but the pilot was not!

Re gearing will help keep the revs up at lower speeds and help the engine work!

Kraven · Feb 6, 2014

blueyoda said:
Thanks, we have a saying around here, plugs are cheaper than pistons! I will check the settings and cross ref for my alt, which is only 1100 feet. My best friend bought a 05 rmk 600 a few years back. Came from out west and he was told the jets were done. Ran great for the first few weeks (cause he was cranking on it, being new and all), soon as he started to drive it normal it took out the crank. Main was changed, but the pilot was not!

Re gearing will help keep the revs up at lower speeds and help the engine work!

I mostly ride at 1,200 feet in the U.P.

Ran my 2002 800 for 6,400 trouble free miles, for reference, the 2002 800's had 500 mains both sides

My buddy had a 2003 800, 4,500+ trouble free miles, still running, he ran 470/480 @ 1,200 '

2003 800's had the deficient air box less air flow

2003 800 JETTING CHART POSTED BELOW

blueyoda · Feb 6, 2014

Thanks for the jetting info. First ride today. Starts and idles fine, runs ok to 7000 then stops. Wont rev any farther. Has had very little use, so im assuming its a dirty carb/fogging oil issue. Plugs look good so i am thinking carbs. Love the sled so i hope to get it running better. guess ill pull them and clean/check the jets.

Goinboardin · Feb 7, 2014

I'm going to guess the clutch springs are all original. I'm not sure what you'd want to run at your altitude/for your riding style, but a fresh set of springs in the clutches is a good idea as springs lose their temper over enough time.

Another easy check is the VES valves. I'd pull them to make sure they're not stuck, and also take a look at the stop that the valve rests on when not open: this is the part that breaks on the aluminum valves. I caught mine before it let go, but I don't think it had much life left before dropping into the cylinder at WOT. That was at 3500 miles or so.

blueyoda · Feb 7, 2014

Valves look cleanish, they moved freely but there was quite a bit of oil under the diaphragms. Jets were 450 both sides, chart says 490 for my area so i got some 500's as kraven suggested. Got the clutch chart from the dealer, going to get at those tonight and see if everything matches up. Hoping for the best.

blueyoda · Feb 7, 2014

upon further inspection the shoulder of one of shoulders of the valves looks deformed. No piston contact on the valve, just the soft aluminium shoulder failing. Looks like it may have been binding or draging in the slot when under load. I can see why these need to be replaced. I ordered 2 of the 2202838 kits from the dealer. Should be in wednesday. I'll post some pics of the bad valve when I get a chance.

hello from a newbie and questions

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