So those of you who have tested giving it a little juice, did you have to supply it with much power or just barely tap the turminal to the hot wire to get it to start producing power?
DC Power on a PRO
- Thread starter off road rider
- Start date
A momentary voltage supply is all it takes...............
I never actually timed it bit I would guess that one second would do the trick..........
T
I could just tap a regular 9v battery to the wire for a split second and that fired it up.
I was able to test drive the sled this weekend. I ran flawless on saturday. On sunday(today) I made it about halfway through the day and the regulator stopped charging the battery. I could tell something was up because anytime he circuit has under 12vdc the a/f gauge gives a E9 error. I wasnt sure if the regulator took a dump or what happened. So basically the gauges and oil pump were running off just the small battery. I went ahead and unplugged my turbo oil pump from the "new" wiring and hooded it back up to the originally DC PWR plug because I didn't want to ruin my turbo. I then headed back to the truck. It was probably a 20mile trail ride back in. I made it about halfway back in and everything started working again.
I think the regulator might be going out. Im not getting too bent out of shape just yet. I had both the stock regulator and a used on off a rental sled that I bought as a backup(had like 6000miles on it). At this point I'm not sure which regulator is on the sled so it might be the backup one. I also have a brand new regulator, this is the one that I'm going to put on the sled and give er another try. I also think Im going to leave the oil pump hooked up to the original DC PWR plug so my "experiment" doesn't burn down my turbo.
T
I ran it this weekend and it worked well. At this point I still have my oil pump hooked up to the DC PWR plug.(the way I originally had it hooked up). Once I feel more confident in this setup I'll switch it over eventually. I'm heading out west to ride next week and that'll be the true test.
Going to give this battery a try. It weighs just over a half pound. www.ballisticparts.com/products/batteries/EVO2-50.php
You can get the sealed fuse holder at Fastenal or Clips and Fasteners. It's the same one Polaris uses on the Pro.
http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/Sealed_Fuse_Holder_For_Atm_Mini_Fuses_2_15_Amp_p/a20207.htm
You can get the sealed fuse holder at Fastenal or Clips and Fasteners. It's the same one Polaris uses on the Pro.
http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/Sealed_Fuse_Holder_For_Atm_Mini_Fuses_2_15_Amp_p/a20207.htm
This company has some great wiring components.
www.cycleterminal.com
www.cycleterminal.com
TRS...Thanks for posting that up!
Their stuff is clean and compact... and priced well with only a $5 minimum.
Unique use of the connectors and I've not seen the covers, bases etc that they offer avail to the public before.
I have some of the fuse block and fuse/relay blocks as well...They've been very helpful in getting the Yazaki connectors that I need to hopefully pull this together for everyone this this fall.
Their stuff is clean and compact... and priced well with only a $5 minimum.
Unique use of the connectors and I've not seen the covers, bases etc that they offer avail to the public before.
I have some of the fuse block and fuse/relay blocks as well...They've been very helpful in getting the Yazaki connectors that I need to hopefully pull this together for everyone this this fall.
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Played with it today. I tried 2 regulator/rectifiers on a 2011 Pro. The regulator/rectifier would not stay excited without a constant voltage supply to the RD/DG wire. Also used different combinations of watt loads, no change.
I think thats what he is saying, it wont work without the battery. I never could get my cyclops light working off the e-start terminal (2011 pro).
C
Just re-read this whole thread again, lots of great info. Here's my question:
On my '12 ES sled, I want to delete my headlight for venting, and run a Rigid or similar LED bar on my handlebars. I know I need to put a draw on the headlight circuit so I don't fry anything, so what exactly do I need to convert my AC headlight circuit to DC to run an LED? The light bar I'm looking at is 24 watts, probably around 1.5 amps. I'm also going to run a helmet light as well, preferably on the same circuit to draw some more juice. I am already powering my A/F gauge with a relay off my battery, triggered by the underhood DC acc plug, so I know there is power there.
On my '12 ES sled, I want to delete my headlight for venting, and run a Rigid or similar LED bar on my handlebars. I know I need to put a draw on the headlight circuit so I don't fry anything, so what exactly do I need to convert my AC headlight circuit to DC to run an LED? The light bar I'm looking at is 24 watts, probably around 1.5 amps. I'm also going to run a helmet light as well, preferably on the same circuit to draw some more juice. I am already powering my A/F gauge with a relay off my battery, triggered by the underhood DC acc plug, so I know there is power there.
If you already have a battery for ES why not just tap that to run your LED's? You don't need to draw on the headlight circuit. PLenty of us running no headlights with no draw and no issues.
Also if you are planning on running a helmet light I would skip the LED light bar as you wont need it. Just my .02
C
Ok, so there is sufficient draw on the system with a battery to not have to worry about cooking a VR? I realize many people are running successfully without headlights, I just prefer not to run any risks with my electrical system. If this will work 100%, I'm all for it.
I do a ton of night riding in all sorts of terrain, so for me the more light the better.
I do a ton of night riding in all sorts of terrain, so for me the more light the better.
Sorry guys, I have been in the British Columbia bush for the last 2 weeks.
I could not get it to work properly without a battery wired in the circuit.
I was concerned the test lights were running off the 12v battery when the sled was running. I replaced the 12v with a small 9v battery and it would keep the rectifier excited as long as it was wired into the circuit. As soon as I removed the 9v battery from the circuit it would stop charging. The 9v would not run the test lights on its own, but would excite the rectifier when the sled was running. I now believe that the regulator rectifier needs a continuous voltage signal to stay excited.
ttt...great info from TRS
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