DC Power on a PRO

SledheadBKM · Nov 14, 2012

ok, i tested my dc plug for power and ground and had 14 volts. i pulled the 2 amp fuse by the velcro bag and it was blown. it appears that grizzly is correct, that fuse is for the a/c plug that comes out of the hood. i replaced it and now have power to my heated shield harness. so, the other question peeps may have is, where is the fuse for the dc plug?
there was a thread on this same subject about a year ago, and a guy had posted that napa offered a plug that fits perfectly into the hood a/c plug. he even posted the part # i ordered 1 (cost under $5) and it fit perfectly. makes it easy to remove hood, just need to unplug 1 more small connector.:face-icon-small-ton

Nubulin · Nov 14, 2012

SledheadBKM said:
ok, i tested my dc plug for power and ground and had 14 volts. i pulled the 2 amp fuse by the velcro bag and it was blown. it appears that grizzly is correct, that fuse is for the a/c plug that comes out of the hood. i replaced it and now have power to my heated shield harness. so, the other question peeps may have is, where is the fuse for the dc plug?
there was a thread on this same subject about a year ago, and a guy had posted that napa offered a plug that fits perfectly into the hood a/c plug. he even posted the part # i ordered 1 (cost under $5) and it fit perfectly. makes it easy to remove hood, just need to unplug 1 more small connector.:face-icon-small-ton

Thanks for testing that. Helps with some of my questions. My sled is still in pieces and can't run it yet to test it myself until the vipec is fully installed. I am wiring gauges this weekend, so I need to get this figured out!

Revenger · Nov 14, 2012

I have studied the schematics some now. And I have found out that the plug under the hood called ACC power is DC and is protected by a fuse 2A found above primary clutch.

The plug on left side above primary marked DC is a DC plug that is not fused, so this plug i able to deliver as much amp as is available from Stator/regulator.

How much Watt the stators can deliver i dont know, so please post if anybody know..

Sorry for my bad english, i'm a Norwegian.

SledheadBKM · Nov 15, 2012

http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=234327&highlight=dc+power+gps+napa

i found the thread from last year....funny, some of the postings are from 1 year ago to the day:face-icon-small-sho hopefully this link works that i posted, there is some useful info on it.
btw the napa balkamp part # is 755-1598 and plugs into the ac plug in hood

Butta · Nov 15, 2012

I use a small battery from an RC car that I attach under my hood in order to power my
GPS. I recharge it in between trips, and being under the hood, it stays nice and warm during use. I also love the fact that if the case ever arose that I would have to leave my sled for survival, I could take the battery with me and have a week's worth of GPS life at my disposal.

ottawaair · Nov 15, 2012

The plug in under the hood, by the headlight, is ACC, NOT AC. as in accesory. It is DC power. I wired in a cig. lighter to that plug so i can bring my phone charger with me & keep phone plugged in. Charges anytime sled is running. No problems in 850 miles with this setup.

Nubulin · Nov 16, 2012

Any idea where to get the plugs that mate up with the DC pwr plug?

die hard poo · Nov 17, 2012

Revenger said:
I have studied the schematics some now. And I have found out that the plug under the hood called ACC power is DC and is protected by a fuse 2A found above primary clutch.

The plug on left side above primary marked DC is a DC plug that is not fused, so this plug i able to deliver as much amp as is available from Stator/regulator.

How much Watt the stators can deliver i dont know, so please post if anybody know..

Sorry for my bad english, i'm a Norwegian.

ottawaair said:
The plug in under the hood, by the headlight, is ACC, NOT AC. as in accesory. It is DC power. I wired in a cig. lighter to that plug so i can bring my phone charger with me & keep phone plugged in. Charges anytime sled is running. No problems in 850 miles with this setup.

These guys are correct, I too studied the wiring schematic for the Pro and came to the same conclusion:

The DC POWER Labeled plug located above the clutch cover is not fused and is actually considered a test port, but can be used to pull DC power from.
(I am powering from there for my silber turbo oil pump, Boost-it XIC controller, and aux. fuel injectors)

The ACC Plug located under the hood by the headlights is also DC POWER, but is fused with a 2AMP fuse (stock) which is located back over by the clutch cover in a capped plug-in. Remove the cap and you will see it. Silber recommends replacing this fuse with a larger 10AMP fuse to allow more current draw. I am using this plug to power my AFR Gauge and my Boondocker EBC. So far no issues.

Both of these systems are DC POWER, just the ACC plug is FUSE Protected and is downstream of the plug over the clutch cover.

mountainhorse · Nov 17, 2012

First off... those that already have a lot of loads or switched out fuses... that is great...

AND this is just a heads up so that you can make your own Informed decisions on what to do. ...

The 2 amp fuse is in there for a reason... the factory regulation only has so much power that it can supply... overload it, or the wires and you could be looking at a costly repair that will NOT (and rightfully Should not) be covered by warranty.

That power port is intended for low draw items like heated visors etc.

The DC port by the clutch cover is intended for DC power-INpup to "power up" the sled for testing during Digital wrench operations.

Be careful and be responsible for your own choices... but know that Polaris did not intend for more than 2 amps to be drawn from the system.

I recommend that anyone who wants to draw more than 2 amps from the factory tap power from the AC side of the harness (like the lighting circuit) and run a rectifier/regulator from that.

The Stators on these sleds are rated to about 400w and that must also run the 130w of lighting, the 90w of fuel pump... plus another 100w or so of the ECU/CFi system. All this with power loss in the conversion to DC for those items used.

Keep this in mind when hooking up to the system.

Revenger · Nov 17, 2012

mountainhorse said:
First off... those that already have a lot of loads or switched out fuses... that is great...

AND this is just a heads up so that you can make your own Informed decisions on what to do. ...

The 2 amp fuse is in there for a reason... the factory regulation only has so much power that it can supply... overload it, or the wires and you could be looking at a costly repair that will NOT (and rightfully Should not) be covered by warranty.

That power port is intended for low draw items like heated visors etc.

The DC port by the clutch cover is intended for DC power-INpup to "power up" the sled for testing during Digital wrench operations.

Be careful and be responsible for your own choices... but know that Polaris did not intend for more than 2 amps to be drawn from the system.

I recommend that anyone who wants to draw more than 2 amps from the factory tap power from the AC side of the harness (like the lighting circuit) and run a rectifier/regulator from that.

The Stators on these sleds are rated to about 400w and that must also run the 130w of lighting, the 90w of fuel pump... plus another 100w or so of the ECU/CFi system. All this with power loss in the conversion to DC for those items used.

Keep this in mind when hooking up to the system.

Agree with everything you write. But I wonder if the power consumption you say is the reality or your professional guess of how it is? I have only found out that total power available is 400W from the Polaris spec. Is the Lighting coil 130W and the other coil 270W then?

Sorry for my bad english, hope you understand my question
Norway.

mountainhorse · Nov 18, 2012

Besides the Lighting and Chassis coils... There is a third (X) stator coil... that is the "system" coil that feeds the ignition system, ECU and Injectors. I believe that this is also factored into the output of the Stator... IE.. the 400w is a Composit output for the X, Y & Z coils... I'll confirm that with Polaris if I can and re-post here.

The two power connectors mentioned above..
1) Accessory power plug with 2 amp fuse
2) The DC power test plug

Are BOTH fed from the same R/W wire coming from the chassis relay, which is fed by the Z chassis coil through the Chassis voltage regulator.... so this will actually be able to supply much LESS than 400w of power.

The AC lighting coil ONLY feeds 16v AC which has its own separate voltage regulator.

AGAIN... If you are powering any other items from the sled beyond the 2w accessory power... I suggest that you do this from the AC side of the system AND you are cautious in your total current draw.

As an example... In close cooperation with Polaris engineering, Boondockers decided to only run their intercooler fan from the lighting circuit.

Most O2 sensors draw 50w alone for the heating element.

Offroad.. what does your new light bar draw? HID? Helmet light?

DC Chassis Coil (Z)
14VDC Chassis Power
- Fuel Pump
- Chassis Relay Coil
- EV Solenoid
- Instrument Cluster
- Accessory power

AC Lighting Coil (Y)
14VAC Chassis Power
- Battery Charge (Electric Start Equipped)
- Head / Tail Lights
- Hand / Thumb Warmers

DC-CFI AC Regulator/Battery Charge Rectifier
DC-CFI models feature an AC regulator/DC (battery charge) rectifier. The AC regulator/battery charge rectifier only regulates AC voltage and charges the battery (when equipped). It does not supply VDC to the instrument cluster or accessory power points.

DC System Coil (X)
16 VDC System Power
- Fuel Injector Power
- ECU / Sensor Power (Regulated to 5VDC)
- Ignition Coil Power

.

108snowbandit · Nov 19, 2012

Rd/dg 128 out of regulator shows going to estart harness. Will that charge a battery as stated in schem???

mountainhorse · Nov 19, 2012

Isn't that the charge solenoid trigger??

108snowbandit · Nov 20, 2012

Ac regulator to p1 estart / function says battery charge power

off road rider · Nov 20, 2012

Thanks for the diagram MH!! Great Info..

I see a few things of interest, First it appears that all the coils are floated ground. (No ground to stator) Thats good because you can get very good full wave DC power from a floated ground, second is the power lead for battery charging, this tells me there is ample Dc power on tap for aux lighting.
A few things dont make sense like the ac for the headlights also being on the same plug as what looks like DC for the battery charge, I would need to see the rest of the circuit to make a determination there.
I don't see any issue with running good dc powered lights, my main focus.
Most of the lights guys would want are under 2.5 amps with some down around .75 amps.
I should have a 2013 model in the shop in the next few weeks. Ill report back with any info I find.
Thanks again..

mountainhorse · Nov 20, 2012

xrsoggie said:
Ac regulator to p1 estart / function says battery charge power

Yep... that comes from the second, smaller regulator off of the (Y) Coil regulator.
out of the Regulator/rectifier, into a 10 amp fuse then out to the battery charge.

If you want to tap off and put a battery in the system... that is a good place for it.

phatty · Nov 20, 2012

Situation: Running Boondocker Turbo with headlights removed.
Looking to run a leaddog, or HID/LED type headlight at night if needed.

Obviously the Turbo EBC and pump will be drawn from the DC plug in.

Since I have removed the headlights, can I purchase one of these Napa AC/DC converters and wire it into the headlight (AC) line and run it to the leaddog/HID plug in? Or should I be fine just plugging in leaddog/HID into the ACC(DC) 2Amp line?

Thanks, good info here

mountainhorse · Nov 20, 2012

Phatty...

I HIGHLY recommend against running into the 2-amp line...UNLESS you keep the 2amp fuse. (which in your case is too small)
I also HIGHLY recommend against running into the DC "power-up" plug... that has the SAME source as the 2amp power out... but without a fuse to protect
the circuit.

IMO, strongly, Do not replace that 2 amp fuse with a higher amperage... that circuit was designed to have a SMALL draw... a larger fuse will allow too much draw for the design... regardless of those that have not had good luck so far with doing it.

The Lead dog headlights are simple halogen headlights... You dont need to convert them to DC power...

Simply run it into the headlight socket.
That is a good source for both (+) and (-) on your lead dog.

You can then use your high beam switch to turn it on or off without unplugging.

If you run an LED or HID... you will need DC power... I'll be posting that up in a bit.
======

If you want to tap into the headlight in a "clean" way... buy the connector and have a plug/play without cutting up the harness.

$6 get you 2 connectors and 6 pins (you'll have extras to help friends!!) Includes shipping from USA.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/280991929623

108snowbandit · Nov 20, 2012

Nice mh your the man thank you

off road rider · Nov 20, 2012

phatty said:
Situation: Running Boondocker Turbo with headlights removed.
Looking to run a leaddog, or HID/LED type headlight at night if needed.

Obviously the Turbo EBC and pump will be drawn from the DC plug in.

Since I have removed the headlights, can I purchase one of these Napa AC/DC converters and wire it into the headlight (AC) line and run it to the leaddog/HID plug in? Or should I be fine just plugging in leaddog/HID into the ACC(DC) 2Amp line?

Thanks, good info here

Phatty
Lead dog is 35 watts halogen that runs on AC or Dc.
Would you mind letting me know why you would choose that product over the Lifetime warrantied Cyclops HL-001 50 watt Helmet mounted light or another higher performing helmet mount product?
http://www.cyclopsadventuresports.com/?page=categories&id=2

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