Looks to be a Union Bay Billet top end....unless someone copied one of there (unlikely) .... Doug Ruth more than likely ported it.
800 ves - performance
- Thread starter Twostroke
- Start date
Looks to be a Union Bay Billet top end....unless someone copied one of there (unlikely) .... Doug Ruth more than likely ported it.
i have 0 experience with that chasis but i am familiar with the motor. My 800 ves has the turbotater porting, SLP twin pipes, run the air pods with no hood, geared to approx 2.25, team clutch with less angle than recommended and stiffer spring than recommended......i forget the exact specs right at the moment. Will likely do the slp higher compression heads that call for a mix of race gas in the near future.
sled runs like a beast. I agree that turbotater does a terrific port job. The SLP pipes fit beautifully into the chasis with no bellypan mods required.
No idea what the hp is but she runs real good and completely reliable.
if i could find a turbo package for the edge chasis that would be next. the turbo sleds are a completely different ballgame.
sled runs like a beast. I agree that turbotater does a terrific port job. The SLP pipes fit beautifully into the chasis with no bellypan mods required.
No idea what the hp is but she runs real good and completely reliable.
if i could find a turbo package for the edge chasis that would be next. the turbo sleds are a completely different ballgame.
I love that video, it makes me laugh. It's alot like starting my triple. Thump thump thump, holy crap, thump thump thump. :face-icon-small-hap Good thing I got some of 4Z's rewind rope.
T
Curious to see what you do have in your team, thats basically what I'll be running other then the porting and head, i'm planning on getting a PAR head.
S
LMAO.
T
How do you have it set up?
I believe my Primary is 62 or 64 gram weights with the SLP Blue/Pink primary spring. Runs right at 8300 rpm. My track is only the 144 camo challenger and I most often ride in May at 7000 ft in warm temps with heavy/wet snow.
Will let you know the Secondary spring/helix combo next time I'm out at the storage place.....just cant remember off the top of my head.
Will let you know the Secondary spring/helix combo next time I'm out at the storage place.....just cant remember off the top of my head.
I have a Team Tied, so the angles are not the same. But I'm very happy with it so far.
T
pulled my secondary, it's has a 58-44-46 er
sound right? Or should it have a more angle
sound right? Or should it have a more angle
T
It's the 44 that is giving you fits. Well, thats part of it. Should be a 58-4-.36 Run 20:41 gearing. Black/purple secondary spring and a slp green/pink in the Primary. And yes, I have a couple of these that I have built. Running slp twins as well. The other thing that you are most likely running into on a long pull or long wot in the deep is the damn pod filters. Throw them away and get an airbox. Don't say it wont fit either. It will. You need to get cold air into the motor to get it to stay running consistant. That and you may be just plan running too large of main jets too if it is falling on it's face on a long pull. That helix is part of it. What gearing do you have? Put the springs in I suggested. They work. Weight for your elevation. We are lower than you so I would only be guessing but you should be pulling 62-64's I would think at 6500'.
As for the heavy steering, Have you put rmk spindles on it? The iqr spindles suck for anything other than a snow cross track. That is what most do that use them in the moutains to correctly fix the heavy steering issue. Ironically that is what that sled was built for!A snox track. Imagine that. Yes, it is a great sled. A fun toy. I love them. But without spending thousands on a sled that you will never get your money out of, it will never climb and get around like a true mountian sled like an M or a Pro. Fasttrax built a ton of 20-30K mod iqr's converted back in the day for money no object customers. They have all sold them and have gone to Pro's. There is a reason. Fastrax hasn't had a order to build on in a long time. Enjoy your sled. It is a great sled. But not the greatest thing that ever wnet up a hill.
T
I had a black/purple in the secondary. I had 62's in it, liked it better with 58's. I'm fairly certain that it is a clutching problem. I'm lean compared to what I read others are running, 300 mains but I'm going to replace the floats & needles just for piece of mind, i've had the float needles wear and cause flooding issues at certain angles. It's like it won't backshift enough to keep it at peak rpm, from what I remember, it's been a few months. Even on set up snow it will begin to loose rpms going up a long steady pull. I'm now putting a UBR900 in it so I'm going to run whatever Fastrax suggests for a starting point for clutching. I've ran pods on sleds in the past and not had a problem, same conditions and snow. I have tons of venting, no headlights, I do not think I'm heatsinking. Even if I run the sled without a hood when I point it up a hill it will act the same, just won't stay on the pipe, that is the best way I can describe it. Motor does not sound like it is loading up and plugs look good. I'm not new to jetting twostrokes. I need to pull the chaincase open, I forget whats in it.
I do not have heavy steering any more, made many changes to the sled, performs flawless in mtns. I have a full RMK 39" front end w/grippers. We have a M8 in the garage and the IQR handles better in the mtns then it. I could not care less if I get my money out of it, that's not why I snowmobile or ride a mod sled. And the fact that the masses love PRO's so much does not mean I'd like one, actually because of their popularity it means I couldn't own one.
Just need to figure out this issue it has under load. So lets keep this thread on point, it's not a chassis set up thread, it's strictly motor, clutch and gearing related. So back to the main topic..
My sleds issues;
1) Will not hold peak rpm during climbs, any snow condition.
2) Will not hold peak rpm when under load(heavy sidehilling and aggressive carving)
3) Deep snow the motor will act the same as #1,2.
4) Sometimes during 1,2,3 it sounds like the motor could stall.
I can not get it to act up on trail.
This is twostroke, on a different computer...
I do not have heavy steering any more, made many changes to the sled, performs flawless in mtns. I have a full RMK 39" front end w/grippers. We have a M8 in the garage and the IQR handles better in the mtns then it. I could not care less if I get my money out of it, that's not why I snowmobile or ride a mod sled. And the fact that the masses love PRO's so much does not mean I'd like one, actually because of their popularity it means I couldn't own one.
Just need to figure out this issue it has under load. So lets keep this thread on point, it's not a chassis set up thread, it's strictly motor, clutch and gearing related. So back to the main topic..
My sleds issues;
1) Will not hold peak rpm during climbs, any snow condition.
2) Will not hold peak rpm when under load(heavy sidehilling and aggressive carving)
3) Deep snow the motor will act the same as #1,2.
4) Sometimes during 1,2,3 it sounds like the motor could stall.
I can not get it to act up on trail.
This is twostroke, on a different computer...
T
Sorry. Didn't mean to bust your chops. Too many just stretch out a Race sled and can't figure out why they don't go for chit in the snow. Sounds llike you have most of the chassis stuff taken care of.
Any idea where your gearing is at? Shoot for around a 2:05-2:10.
Next in my book would be Helix. I forget exactly what helix I ran in them but can check in a couple of days when I get home. They won't begin to pull the stock helix or anything close to it. They will fall on their face as you are describing. How fresh is your Primary? Worn bushing or rollers will do that too. As will a cracked or sagged out Primary spring. Run either an slp blue/pink or green/pink. Both finish the same, but the green engages harder and is much snappier off the line. Too much so for some peoples taste.
nevermind. Just remembered you said you are going to the ubr900 setup. Curt will take good care of getting you very close with that setup. He has built many of those sleds with that motor.
Any idea where your gearing is at? Shoot for around a 2:05-2:10.
Next in my book would be Helix. I forget exactly what helix I ran in them but can check in a couple of days when I get home. They won't begin to pull the stock helix or anything close to it. They will fall on their face as you are describing. How fresh is your Primary? Worn bushing or rollers will do that too. As will a cracked or sagged out Primary spring. Run either an slp blue/pink or green/pink. Both finish the same, but the green engages harder and is much snappier off the line. Too much so for some peoples taste.
nevermind. Just remembered you said you are going to the ubr900 setup. Curt will take good care of getting you very close with that setup. He has built many of those sleds with that motor.
T
I'm not 100% on the ubr 900 yet, I have the cylinders and head but need the rest, may just let it collect dust this season. So lets just keep talking 800 ves here.
I'm actually having the clutch balanced and will go through it then also. I did notice some bushing wear but haven't opened it up.
I've been running a polaris almond 140/330 which is pretty close to the blue/pink 140/340. Maybe I will try both the blue/pink and green/pink? since I will be replacing the primary spring. I'm not against high engagement as i'm will to sacrifice for performance, just hate those super deep days and having a high engagement, good way to get stuck after stopping.
I also have a 58-42-36 helix, I may have forgot to mention that. I'm pretty green to helix choice. I already bought a red/black secondary spring. It had a black/purple in it. The red/black is 140-240 and the black/purple is stiffer 160/240.
I am running twins too.
I have next week off work so I'd like to get any parts I may need ordered so I can get to riding, snow started falling here today.
I'm actually having the clutch balanced and will go through it then also. I did notice some bushing wear but haven't opened it up.
I've been running a polaris almond 140/330 which is pretty close to the blue/pink 140/340. Maybe I will try both the blue/pink and green/pink? since I will be replacing the primary spring. I'm not against high engagement as i'm will to sacrifice for performance, just hate those super deep days and having a high engagement, good way to get stuck after stopping.
I also have a 58-42-36 helix, I may have forgot to mention that. I'm pretty green to helix choice. I already bought a red/black secondary spring. It had a black/purple in it. The red/black is 140-240 and the black/purple is stiffer 160/240.
I am running twins too.
I have next week off work so I'd like to get any parts I may need ordered so I can get to riding, snow started falling here today.
leave the almond in there its fine.
straight cut 40 and a red/pink in the secondary. 58-40.36 if you don't trust the straight 40. (we only used the straight 40 because it was the only 40' finish in the shop while we waited for the 58-40, stole from a 550 fan, worked great!!)
start with 10-64s, go up or down to get right on.
Been a while since I've been on a polaris but I recall with twin pipes this setup liked going a little heavy then grinding a gram off the tips..
Nothing fancy every shop will have this and should be cheep..
straight cut 40 and a red/pink in the secondary. 58-40.36 if you don't trust the straight 40. (we only used the straight 40 because it was the only 40' finish in the shop while we waited for the 58-40, stole from a 550 fan, worked great!!)
start with 10-64s, go up or down to get right on.
Been a while since I've been on a polaris but I recall with twin pipes this setup liked going a little heavy then grinding a gram off the tips..
Nothing fancy every shop will have this and should be cheep..
T
If I can track down a straight 40 I'll try it. Finding helixs for this old team has been tough. already have a bunch of weights..
I'll snag a red/pink also.
I'll snag a red/pink also.
That 140/330 primary spring will engage you at about 3800 if I remember right.
I think I'm running a 160/310. It engages at 4000 and I do fine in deep powder.
If you want to talk angles pm the TEAM, talk to Slash or Turbotater too.
I think I'm running a 160/310. It engages at 4000 and I do fine in deep powder.
If you want to talk angles pm the TEAM, talk to Slash or Turbotater too.
T
Update-
Primary - balanced, new Team green drive spring, 10-64s, Hi-Tech 911 cover. Have lots of spare weights, going to pick up a higher engagement spring to try.
secondary - balanced also, removed heatbands, red/blk spring, same helix. Going to try the .38 i have after I ride it a few times, I can change helixs out riding.
Picked up some bored TM40 carbs - bored to 42mm.
New pistons and rings, last set had maybe 1000miles on them since installed last feb.
PAR head- 45cc domes.
Converted to pre-mix.
Rode it the other day, seems to rip, little hesitant off idle, going to lean out air screw and needles a touch.
Will post more once I ride it off trail.
Primary - balanced, new Team green drive spring, 10-64s, Hi-Tech 911 cover. Have lots of spare weights, going to pick up a higher engagement spring to try.
secondary - balanced also, removed heatbands, red/blk spring, same helix. Going to try the .38 i have after I ride it a few times, I can change helixs out riding.
Picked up some bored TM40 carbs - bored to 42mm.
New pistons and rings, last set had maybe 1000miles on them since installed last feb.
PAR head- 45cc domes.
Converted to pre-mix.
Rode it the other day, seems to rip, little hesitant off idle, going to lean out air screw and needles a touch.
Will post more once I ride it off trail.
Similar threads
