Rookie questions for you guys

I really love the edge chassis it is very stable and predictable. My advice would be run a SLP single pipe, they do add quite a bit of performance and they are very easy to tune (not picky like the twin pipes) and they aren't noisy.

Adding reeds you will not even notice a difference in seat of your pants performance. Unless your stock reeds are shot don't waste your money. put that money into a new seat instead.

and no adding a pipe and reeds will not change your fuel octane.

Big wheel kits: They are suposed to help the track rotate easier because the track bends easier around the bigger radius. I didn't notice much of anything when I put mine on. My advice would be save this upgrade for down the road or don't waste your money at all. However they do look good.

My 3 top must have upgrades would be:

SLP single pipe with the high flow air box kit.

New style Boss highrise seat (you won't believe how much this changes the ride of your sled really smoths out the ride! I know just a seat right? trust me)

Simmions flex skis (also smooths out the ride because they flex over the bumps and steering is increased with dual runners and there is less darting on the trails)


Just my $.02 good luck

If your just getting into modding, I would go for the Easy and Best bang for your buck types

You will really notice the difference a new single pipe and silencer gives to your performance, and weight savings. SLP (Starting Line Products) can hook you up.
If you want to go loud and a little more performance you can go for twin pipes, but the cost and overall diff probably isnt what you want right now.

Dont waste your money on Reeds (yet). There is alot more affordable ways to go, that get you alot farther. You cant even feel the difference Delta reeds cause in the Seat of yoru pants test, probably like 3hp gain at best...and those are usually one of the mods done after there is nothing else left to do in my opinion lol.

2-wheel kits brings your outside rear Bogies inside the rail...and usually go from 2 or 4 wheels down to just the 2. This really only does 2 things, and thats make it easier to tip/sidehill/carve, and look cool. If you do a Big wheel kit at the same time, you can net yourself a little less rolling resistance - hence track speed increase.

If you want to get some real bang for the buck speed wise, the first thing id do is go with an aftermarket pipe/silencer and a gutted Airbox, and dash venting via flo-rights (cold air intake).

If you throw in a Boss seat and some risers - You have a whole different feeling sled.

-RMK

Skip the reeds for now as the others said. SLP single, highflow intake, boss high rise seat. I would also go for the porting and head if you can afford it. Ran with an edge with the SLP performance edition and it ran great. Was pull the rope and go. Jesse.

I believe SNOWJW sells SLP stuff. Not sure who sells boss seats. SNOWJW is great to deal with. Jesse.

Boss is sold out of seats for the year, I called them to get one for my other sled because I liked mine so much. They did tell me that next years model was supposed to have water proof zippers and better foam. So at this point I would wait until next year and get the new model. However I really like this years model (tons of storage) so if you can find someone selling one I wouldn't hesitate on purchasing it.


Another mod I really felt was worth the money was the WRP running boards. They really stiffen up the tunnel, give you lots of traction and get rid of the snow.

Really the mods never end trust me.

RMK2GO said:

Thanks guys! I appreciate your input. My sled has a 4 inch bar riser already (And it makes a huge difference).
Looks like the SLP single, open the intake and a boss seat are in order. I am 6'3" so the stock seat is way to low.
Any suggestions or prefered vendors I should buy from?

Thanks again!

Click to expand...

did you go with a 4 inch riser without replacing throttle and brake cable?

I would also take a look at the gearing. If you are going to get the power from the pipe, then I would check to see what you have. I understand 19/43 is what a lot of people run, and it should also keep the clutches a little cooler. So not a big mod, but it will help performance.

so does anyone know if i could put a 4 inch riser on without changing anything?

rmk 700 said:

so does anyone know if i could put a 4 inch riser on without changing anything?

Click to expand...

Depends on the year. 04 & 05 edges had the same throttle cable as the edge escape. They are longer than the older edge throttle cables. On my 05 with a 4" riser I just had adjust (roll) the fitting on the brake line at the caliper. The trottle cable works fine. I wouldn't go any taller than a 4".

TECH TIPS FOR EDGE 800's FREE MOD S & BEST BANG FOR THE BUCK

RMK2GO said:

I am thinking of doing some mods to my stock 02 800 but have a few questions;

My sled runs great from the bottom end to the top and I don't want to mess that up.

Does an aftermarket pipe make much of a difference in power? I don't want it to be really noisy if I do it.
Reid kit - worth the $285.00?
With a reid kit and pipe, do I need to run higher octane gas? I have always run premium since I picked it up.
What is the advantage of the big wheel kit?

Any other fairly inexpensive mods I can do to increase performance?

Thanks!

Click to expand...

PIX DIDN'T COPY, THEY'RE UNDER TECH TIPS THREAD, moved to the the top for ya!

TECH TIPS for 700 & 800 EDGE's, Free Mods & Best Bang for the Buck
I had a 2002 EDGE-X 800 that was EXTREMELY WELL dialed in for a "Stocker" 6400+ MILES RIDDEN, NEVER BURNED IT DOWN, NEVER BROKE.WALKED away from my (3) other buddy's 800's BIG TIME !!


BEST BANG FOR THE BUCK MODS

HOLTZMANN ATAAC FUEL COMPENSATOR, spot on jetting ALL the time $ 245.00 from www.holtzmannengineering.com mileage increased from 10.5 m.p.g. to approx 13 m.p.g. noticeably more responsive on bottom end and mid-range.

SLP HI-Comp heads, for use with 91 octane ($330) improved bottom end & mid-range GRUNT!!



almost FREE MODS

PRIMARY CLUTCH:

1) Check your belt to primary sheave side clearance, should be .010" to .015" w/NEW belt, mine was .070" from the factory.

2) Install a new primary clutch spring @ the start of every season. (approx $31.00)

3) Send your primary clutch out to have it balanced. Since these sleds have a bad rep for wasting the crankshafts, put a dial indicator on the crank snout (remove primary) and periodically check the run-out. 002"-.0025" is the MOST I would want to see. Made a NOTICEABLE improvement in smoothness and extends crankshaft and clutch life, they drilled 8-9 lightening holes in mine, that's how far off it was from the factory!! SLP and others charge only $35.00 for this service. Do this after you've set the belt to sheave clearance.

4) FLATLANDER SET-UP FOR 800 EDGE
a) ALMOND/red stripe SPRING (POLARIS part # 7041988)
b) 66 gram stock weights, OR
c) SLP's 68 gram MTX'S with 3 grams in the tip, plus 2 to 3 grams in the middle, slight improvement over 66's


SECONDARY

Button Secondary

1) Install a new secondary clutch spring @ the start of every season. (approx $31.00)

2) Replace the (3) little plastic wear buttons, they're approx $ 1.00 each

3) FLATLANDER SET-UP FOR 800 EDGE
a) Stock SOLID BLUE Secondary Spring
b) R-49 Helix, (POLARIS Part # 5133023)

Roller Secondary TSS-98 or TSS-04

1) Install (1) DELRIN washer under the spring cup in your secondary clutch (less than $5.00)

2) FLATLANDER SET-UP FOR 800 EDGE
a) Helix 70-42.46 duration SLP part # 50-90
b) Secondary spring 140/200 Red/Dark Blue SLP part # 50-4


The old style button clutch was faster on top end



BOTH PRIMARY & SECONDARY

1) Align your clutches (offset, center to center, and check for engine "crooked"), mine and my bud's were off!!!! You may have to shim behind the rear engine bracket(s) to get it perfect. Use thin Chevrolet style starter shims available @ Auto Parts stores under the “HELP” brand.

2) Lightly sand both primary and secondary clutches w/180 grit perpendicular to the way the belt rides and wipe down w/lacquer thinner.

3) Wash/scrub (plastic bristle brush) your BRAND NEW belt w/soap & hot water, and let dry overnight, sounds weird, but it removes the "mold release" compound that would otherwise would get smeared all over your nice clean clutches.

4) I prefer the #3211087 belt, it's a CLOSE TOLERANCE version of the #3211080






CLUTCH TOOLS, USE THE RIGHT TOOL FOR THE RIGHT JOB

TOP= POLARIS LWT Part # PS-47477 identifiable by the LWT 1 1/2" tall letters inscribed (approx .070" of built -in "kick" WHICH IS GENERALLY MORE THAN YOU WANT!!!!!!) for use with TSS-04 LIGHTWEIGHT SECONDARY ONLY (contacts the outside of the secondary)


MIDDLE= SLP part # 20-191 This tool is parallel, "straight" no built-in "kick". For use with roller secondarys fits the TSS-98 PERFECTLY, Will work with TSS-04 requires .100" setback measurement to be factored in with a stack of feeler gauges or vernier caliper.(contacts the outside of the secondary) SLP now has a new tool specific to the TSS-04 to where you don't have to jerk around with measuring .100" back, new for 2010, PART # 20-188 $49.95, TEAM also has tools specific to the TSS-98 and TSS-04


NEXT TO BOTTOM= SLP part # 20-150 Standard for "Old style" button secondary, Basically EDGE's and older Indy's. 5/8" OFFSET between backside of secondary. This tool is parallel, as in "straight", no built-in "kick" (contacts the backside of the secondary which is somewhat inaccurate as the backside of the secondary "moves" with the width adjustment on the models with externally adjustable width secondarys)


Bottom Hi -Performance Engineering Center to Center Tool, E-Z to fabricate out of a piece of Scrap Aluminum or Steel, cut-out for jackshaft is 1" Exactly, after that 11.5" c/c. After that you do NOT need the additional 1/2" diameter holes shown in the pic, only the 1" horse shoe or 1" round hole cut-out is req'd and then put some black magic marker on the edge of the tool, tap lightly on the crank snout and you'll have your mark, compare that to your 11.5" scribe mark


I've HEARD REPORTS OF SOME TOOLS NOT BEING "STRAIGHT", PROBABLY NOT A BAD IDEA TO CHECK 'EM WITH A STRAIGHT EDGE!!!!!!!






ENGINE LIMITERS

1) SLP push engine limiter MAG side ($47.95) SLP part # 23-50 (E-Z 20 minute installation, only one hole to drill into your aluminum bulkhead)

2) WMS Engine torque arm, P.T.O. side, in front of the engine. ($82.95) sold also by SLP part #23-53 (E-Z bolt-on installation, no holes to drill)


T.P.S. CHECKING & RE-SETTING PROCEDURE (easier than you think)

1) Check/reset your T.P.S. Pretty E-Z to do, build a tester for $10. Or buy the tester from your local POLARIS dealer, $48.00 part# 2201519-A. You'll also need a digital voltmeter, preferably digital and analog. Make sure you have EXACTLY 5.0 VOLTS FOR TESTING PURPOSES. Don't overlook this! Look at the how to set your T.P.S. info here on this site, all the info is there.

2) The EDGE's get set at WIDE OPEN THROTTLE, spec is 4.0-4.1 volts.

3) Move the throttle gradually from idle to full throttle and back down again while watching the needle on your analog style voltmeter as you want it to move gradually in synch with the throttle, an erratic needle reading indicates a faulty T.P.S. and replace if neccesary.




CHAINCASE and GEARS and CHAIN TENSION

1) Check your chain tension in the chain case, adjust it to where the chain will almost touch the backside of the case w/finger pressure. While you're in the chain case place a metal straight edge onto the sprockets to make sure they're EXACTLY in line. Shim with thin 1" I.D. shims available from auto cylinder head shops, used as valve spring shims. Same shims also fit onto the secondary shaft for getting the offset "dialed in"

2) FLATLANDER SET-UP FOR 800 EDGE
Stock factory gearing is 25/40, change the bottom gear to (41), same 76 pitch chain still fits, less of a dog leg, acceleration improves a little, no loss in top end.


EXHAUST VALVES

1) Clean your exhaust valves AND bores, their dirtier and gummier than you think. While you're there check the bellows for small rips and tears.

2) The original exhaust valves are aluminum, which were prone to failure and severe engine damage could result. Then they went to titanium, and the latest and greatest are Stainless Steel, identifiable by the heavier weight and "relief cut outs"

3) The original exhaust bellows were blue, the latest and greatest bellows are Orange in color.

4) POLARIS part # 2202838 (order two kits, it's only enough parts for one cylinder) includes stainless valve, orange bellow, and 1 exhaust spring.



OTHER: OIL PUMP CALIBRATION, TRACK TENSION, MAINTENANCE:

1) Check your oil pump calibration , mine was 38:1 stock, 55:1 to 60: 1 is better.

2) Run your track looser that specs, approx 1" to 1 1/2" sag just sitting there on the stand.

3) Check ski alignment, 1/8" toe out is preferred



PREFERRED by MOUNTAIN RIDERS, DEBATEABLE for FLATLANDERS

1) SLP Big Air Kit and Flo-Rites, ($42.95 + (2) X $19.95= approx $83.00) E-Z to install , I just didn't notice any difference that's all. However, they do cause a noticeable increase in intake noise, if you like your sled quiet, don't do this mod.

2) Anti-ratchet drive wheels, a real P.I.T.A. to install, (also have to send your track out to get the windows puched out and fully clipped, LELAND PERFORMANCE, Washington State) had to cut the rail tips 2 5/16", relocate cross bar and hyfax mounting holes, and from here on out have to cut the front of the hyfax's as well


WASTE OF $$$$$ I.M.O.

1) V-Force reeds, maybe slightly more responsive on it's best day, V-force's were definitely NOT worth the $258.00 and installation time!!

2) Aftermarket Silencers, even with the weight reduction, they'll slow you down and for those of you who think it's "cool" remember that next time you come across a "trail closed" sign

3) Boost bottles

on the edge don't shim the motor mounts to adjust alignment. loosen the chaincase, put your alignment tool in (don't put it perfect there should be a little gap at the front of the secondary where the tool runs across it, 3/32" in size). now tighten your chaincase bolts. no need for shims

As Stated already by Boxter and RMKing - SLP Single, SLP Airhorn(intake) Seat, Simmons Ski's will all be your best bet hands down, also if you have your torsion bar still in cut it off with a grinder as close as you can to your belly pan and rip it out. This will allow your skis to work independent from one another and you will never look back. Cheapest mod that gains performance IMO - after this is all done, the list gets pretty in depth on what you can do to this sled. Good luck and ride safe

02' Polaris 800 Vert Edge
3" Riser, Simmons Ski's, 2010' Boss Seat, SLP Single Pipe, "The Thing" Can, Diagatron, Upgraded Crank w Billet PTO -"Tough Boy" Bearings, Push Arm, Tourque Arm, Bored, Ported, Polished, V Force III Reeds, SLP Big Horn Air Kit, Avid Extended Chaincase, Willwood Caliber, Avid Extroverts, 2.5"x 156" Camo Xtreme, 09' Dragon Skid, Big Wheel Kit, Holtzman ATACC, Customized Sticker Kit.

Goin' to shim city

dexter said:

on the edge don't shim the motor mounts to adjust alignment. loosen the chaincase, put your alignment tool in (don't put it perfect there should be a little gap at the front of the secondary where the tool runs across it, 3/32" in size). now tighten your chaincase bolts. no need for shims

Click to expand...

3/32=.093" That is way too much!!!


SLP recommends:

a) between ZERO and .020" of air gap at the secondary WITH torque arm (P.T.O. side) and push arm (MAG side) installed

b) and .020" to .040" WITHOUT torque arm (P.T.O. side) and/or PUSH arm (Mag side)

A couple easy questions for a "new" polaris rider...

1. Is this a Gen II or edge? How can you tell the diffrerence? Its an '02.


2. Are the trailing arms off a Gen I (Indy) interchangeable with above sled?

Never owned a Polaris before and just cut a deal on this one. I ca,e across an old Gen I way back and kept to try an sell the chassis parts. I still have the complete front end and might just keep the stuuf for spares if they'll fit?

Its an Edge...

Welcome to Polaris! The sled you bought is an Edge, I was actually interested in that sled a few months ago but didn't have the cash, I hope you like it!. The suspensions between a Gen I and an Edge are similar, but by no means interchangeable. The Edge suspension kicks #$% compared to the Gen I (I have one of each). As for telling the difference, I guess once you see enough its really easy. I'm pretty sure the Edge is 2002 to 2005 (though some sleds continued using this chassis until 2010??) and the Gen II was 2000 to 2001? Someone else should be able to cover this.

Install, rejet, reclutch, heat tape the hood and bellypan and go. SLP head if start off at low elevation.