What pressure is everyone running?stock is like 165?
KTM AERforks
- Thread starter KAWGRN
- Start date
J
I run the max pressure listed in the manual, then an AirPro at 12psi. Without the AirPro it was still way too soft in my opinion.
What’s max some one on here said they were at 215 and it was pretty good???
P
If you are so far out that the max pressure on the air fork ( set cold at the temps you ride not in the heated shop) does not doe it.
One may suggest your balance on the snow Bike and kit set up is so far of that you have other problems.
To manny setups are more like riding a ski pushed around by a track and steering is like a tractor with broken power steering pump.
Look for the Balance a unreasonable harsh fork is not balance it is just a bandaid for an other problem.
One may suggest your balance on the snow Bike and kit set up is so far of that you have other problems.
To manny setups are more like riding a ski pushed around by a track and steering is like a tractor with broken power steering pump.
Look for the Balance a unreasonable harsh fork is not balance it is just a bandaid for an other problem.
N
So where is the ideal balance point on a bike? I’ve ridden a snow hawk a few times and to me that felt way too rear balanced. It was hard to keep the ski on the ground at all.
But on bikes I’d think that we could estimate pretty close where the ideal balance point would be, within a range. Track kits vary but bike geometry is pretty similar across most modern bikes. However, on wheels even a slight change in that geometry makes a big difference, so I do believe that a bad bike setup could make a detrimental change in handling that one could mistakenly start to blame on the forks.
So, where would it be in a perfect world, with rider and gas and gear in place? My gut tells me it would be right in front of where the track touches the ground. Maybe 6” in front of that.
P
On Yamaha's with timbersled set ups ( the old SX 3 shock system and ARO )
I found the happy spot to be about 1.5 to 2 inches back on the food pegs and handlebars. The exact location also depends on how far back your track kit is from the bike frame. The closer the track kit is the better this lessens the need to move the rider back. Also TSS or soft strut give the extra flex in the centre of the bike that helps to not drive all that energy into the forks one G outs. Lastly the rear skid need to work in balance with the fork. If the rear end does not compress at the same rate as the fork -- no balance. I can ride the whoops at a spirited pace standing up like on an MX bike and use about 90% travel on average fork and skid using zip ty's as a witness mark. If I mess up bad I can bottom out either one, the goal again is balance front to back. All snow bike conversions are front heavy in general but the rider is a very significant part of the whole weight and easy to move. Most riders move all the fuel cans and gear back on the tunnel while that helps over all balance it also slows handling down a lot. To much weight out back to balance out front weight requires a more aggressive ski to turn all that stretched out mass it also requires more ski pressure in turn requires stiffer fork.
It is easy to see how we can chase our tail if we do not work diligently on mass centralization It is all about handling in the end and a properly sprung and balanced bike is like a magic.
I found the happy spot to be about 1.5 to 2 inches back on the food pegs and handlebars. The exact location also depends on how far back your track kit is from the bike frame. The closer the track kit is the better this lessens the need to move the rider back. Also TSS or soft strut give the extra flex in the centre of the bike that helps to not drive all that energy into the forks one G outs. Lastly the rear skid need to work in balance with the fork. If the rear end does not compress at the same rate as the fork -- no balance. I can ride the whoops at a spirited pace standing up like on an MX bike and use about 90% travel on average fork and skid using zip ty's as a witness mark. If I mess up bad I can bottom out either one, the goal again is balance front to back. All snow bike conversions are front heavy in general but the rider is a very significant part of the whole weight and easy to move. Most riders move all the fuel cans and gear back on the tunnel while that helps over all balance it also slows handling down a lot. To much weight out back to balance out front weight requires a more aggressive ski to turn all that stretched out mass it also requires more ski pressure in turn requires stiffer fork.
It is easy to see how we can chase our tail if we do not work diligently on mass centralization It is all about handling in the end and a properly sprung and balanced bike is like a magic.