2005 Arctic Cat M7

Chris6060 · Nov 7, 2011

I bought a manual... Super helpful so far! Except it mentions something about making sure all the coolant is out of the motor and after you drain it there's still about 1.75 oz in it... and you have to use a vacuum pump to get the rest out, which I did not do. I don't know how critical it is to have that last bit of coolant out of it is.

JROD · Nov 7, 2011

Glad that you got it figured out but in case anyone searches looking for torque specs, here ya go.

mikew5945 · Nov 7, 2011

Chris6060 said:
I bought a manual... Super helpful so far! Except it mentions something about making sure all the coolant is out of the motor and after you drain it there's still about 1.75 oz in it... and you have to use a vacuum pump to get the rest out, which I did not do. I don't know how critical it is to have that last bit of coolant out of it is.

When you pulled the cylinders off was there any coolant that ran into the case (bottom)? Lets hope not. That is the only reason to vacum it.
Have the cylinders honed, use OEM pistons and have the ring gap checked where you have them honed (see your manual).

I had the RKT head. If you can find it used at half price go for it. Otherwise put your coin in the clutching. Stay away from the secondary kits. Had the RKT kit. Went back to the green AC secondary spring. Primary went I with the AC TT spring. If you want to spend $250 call Steve at MDS clutching for primary weights. I don't know if he messed with the M7. He has a money back if you are not happy.

Mjunkie · Nov 7, 2011

Chris6060 said:
I bought a manual... Super helpful so far! Except it mentions something about making sure all the coolant is out of the motor and after you drain it there's still about 1.75 oz in it... and you have to use a vacuum pump to get the rest out, which I did not do. I don't know how critical it is to have that last bit of coolant out of it is.

You don't need to get the last bit of coolant out. Most of what's left probably isn't in the motor anyways, it will be in the heat exchangers. You just don't want any getting in or on the crank itself.

mikew5945 · Nov 7, 2011

Just got to looking at your pictures. Stuff rags in the case!!!!!!!!
CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN.
Never let the lower end stay open. 8oz of dirt will distroy a V-8.

Also dump about 3oz of oil in each side of the lower case before installing the cylinders. Helps with first start lubrication. It will smoke real bad at first.

Be very clean, picky and it will pay off in the end.

Heat cycle it 2-3 times.

DTR · Nov 7, 2011

When putting the rings on the pistons, make sure the little "R" that is stamped by the nothch is facing UP!

Also, make sure the notch is around the pin in the piston when putting the cylinder on. If its not, you will break the ring. The cylinder should go on fairly easy. Do not force it - this usually means the ring is not properly aligned.

On the cylinders, criss-cross:

Front PTO Outside
Rear PTO Center
Front PTO Center
Rear PTO Outsie

Then do the MAG in the same sequence. Torgue to 20 ft lbs first, then finish at 42 - 44 ft lbs.

Mjunkie said:
Those are the same torque specs I've always used without a problem. As far as a head pattern to tighten, in the past I've always just tightened one corner bolt then the opposite and so forth in a criss cross pattern as best as can be done.

This is actually partially wrong. You need to start in the center of the head and work your way out. It doesn't matter if you start in front or back, as long as you start in the center. I do the rear, center PTO (clutch) side bolt first, then criss-cross:

Rear Center PTO
Front Center MAG
Rear Center MAG
Front Center PTO

Rear Middle MAG
Front Middle PTO
Rear Middle PTO
Front Middle MAG

Rear Outside PTO
Front Outside MAG
Front Outside PTO
Rear Outside MAG

Do as mentioned though, tighten to 10-15 ft lbs first, then go back through to 22 - 25 ft lbs on the head.

DTR · Nov 7, 2011

Also, when putting the cir-clips back in that hold the piston pin in, put a towel under the piston covering the crankcase. This will keep the cir-clip out of the case until you get comfortable with putting them in. Because you will slip and the cir-clip will fly!:face-icon-small-ton

Make sure the gap in the circlip is either straight up or straight down. Straight down is the perfered orientation, plus they are easier to remove if you ever rebuild again.

Just remember, dirt and grit are your enemy. If you hone the cylinders (strongly reccommend) make sure you wash them throughly. The tiny silica particles from the hone will score the cylinders if they aren't cleaned out.

HINT: Use a rigid hone, NOT a ball hone. The ball hones catch in the ports and can chip and damage the cylinders around the ports.

Chris6060 · Nov 8, 2011

I have no clue what "honing" the cylinders means... haha.

I didn't SEE any coolant get into the lower crankcase, but... I don't know. :face-icon-small-dis
Eyes can be deceiving. Is there any way to actually SEE if there's coolant in there? Also; I did cover the crankcase with a rag, don't worry :face-icon-small-ton

mikew5945 · Nov 8, 2011

Take your cylinders to your Cat dealer or Harley dealer or good machine shop. Have them rough up the cylinder walls with a hone. It puts scratches in the cylinder walls in a cross pattern from top to bottom. This helps the new piston rings seet or wear in. At the same time give them your new OEM pistons and rings. They will put the rings on the pistons and match them for each cylinder. Don't mix them up when you get them back if they are not the same. What they are doing is grinding the end of the rings to get the proper gap. Don't miss this step.

Lots of oil soaking when putting back together. I use STP on the pistons because it is sticky and stays with the pistons and rings for the first fire up.

You should see signs of coolant on the crank or other parts. Little besds of water. If not you are probably good.

Keep pictures comming.

Chris6060 · Nov 16, 2011

Well... Dad and I went and looked in the crankcase for coolant... Stuck a syringe with a little hose on it down there, there's definitely some coolant on the left side. (Looking from the back of the sled.) Yet the right side is almost dead dry. I was thinking I'd just suck all the coolant out with the syringe? Do you guys think that could work?

Mjunkie · Nov 16, 2011

Yeah, get all the coolant out of there you can, then put a couple of ounces of oil back in there and turn the motor over slowly a few times to distribute it to everything and you'll be fine.

Chris6060 · Nov 17, 2011

So if I get nearly all the coolant out of the lower crankcase, put some oil in there, will it burn the coolant, or what?

Chris6060 · Nov 17, 2011

I got all the coolant out. Every drop of it... but I got bored and was looking at the cylinders a bit. I found this on the left cylinder. (Left from the front of the sled, I don't know which sides mag and which side is PTO.)

Blk88GT · Nov 17, 2011

PTO is clutch side, Mag is the Magneto (stator) side.

That cylinder should not be used again, it needs to be sent in and re-nikasil'd.

Welcome to M7 ownership. Mine looked like that @ 2k miles. I paid ~700 for a new pair of jugs.

sledtahoe · Nov 17, 2011

yep

Mine also, but eric at racinstation has them on shelf for 199.00 with your old one to exchange in.. Looks like you were close to a seizer soon.

Chris6060 · Nov 17, 2011

That's the MAG side cylinder then... *sigh* Okay. It just snowed literally 2 feet here over night. Lots of snow shoveling today, no one even went to school. The snow is killing me, I can't wait to ride! Dad's new Pro-Climb is giving him the itch too.

Anyway... I guess I'll get that side re-done. Replaced, re-nikasiled or whatever we need to do.

Blk88GT · Nov 17, 2011

If you can get them from RacinStation for 200 a pop, replace them both. New pistons, rings etc!

Chris6060 · Nov 17, 2011

We already have new pistons waiting at our local dealer to go pick up, so...

Chris6060 · Nov 17, 2011

Our local dealer is asking 400$ to re-nikasil ONE of my old cylinders and 900$ for a new cylinder. A single new cylinder. Does that sound right?

Chris6060 · Nov 18, 2011

Chris6060 said:
Our local dealer is asking 400$ to re-nikasil ONE of my old cylinders and 900$ for a new cylinder. A single new cylinder. Does that sound right?

Anyone?

2005 Arctic Cat M7

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