1997 600 XLT triple

alaska_guy · Oct 20, 2014

Hey guys just wanted to introduce myself and ask a few questions...

I am from Alaska, used to ride a 2001 RMK 700 years ago and just purchased a 97 XLT Triple. I want to mainly use this sled for my dads cabin. Mostly trail riding/commuter, no need for a power king or anything.

I have a few questions... This triple looks stock, mechanically. It has a manifold out of the exhaust that goes to a single can. The can looks stock as well. I basically just want a reliable good running sled. It starts up just fine the first pull right now, but we will see after it sits.

I was curious what things I should check into replacing... The cowl is toast, the tub has a crack in it, but its not all the way through... I will more than likely just stitch it up for the time being. Anything I need to be aware of? I have heard horror stories of the crank PTO side bearing on these things have issues...

Basically looking for advice.

I am very mechanically inclined and once I get time I will go through checking the basics, like greasing, checking fluids etc. More or less looking for the gotcha's with this sled. I don't plan on modding it.

WyoUltra · Oct 21, 2014

From what I've heard, Polaris fixed their crank issues when it they went from the 580 to the 600 (1995) You should be good as long as you keep it stock. The XLT's were an amazing pull and go sled. You only really had to be concerned about the crank when you put on triple pipes and were spinning +/- 9100 RPM. You can lose a bit of weight by dropping the stock can for an aftermarket one too, and in my opinion a DG can (if you can find one) sounds the best on those things.

WyoUltra · Oct 21, 2014

Here's a clip of a DG can.

alaska_guy · Oct 21, 2014

Ok , thanks good to know...

I was curious what cowls from other polaris machines would fit mine. Mine is somewhat functional, but its cracked bad in some places and I would really like to get a new one.

Also, I heard the later 97 year productions had 4 oil lines vs the 3? I will check that tonight to try and pin down the production date. The sled has the ACCEL hood and +10 stickers on the back of the sled, but who knows if the current hood is the original or not. The guy had another hood and nose cone, but the hood didn't have the brackets. Look like they broke off the hood, which in turn made the other hood worthless.

Thanks again.

WyoUltra · Oct 21, 2014

Assuming it's a wedge XLT, and not the evolved(?) or other chassis from that year, any wedge hood, from 1990 up will fit it. If you get one from a 97' 700 RMK, a 98' 600/700, you will have the updated intake box on your dash (assuming it comes with the hood).

I'm also assuming the ACCEL that you're talking about is actually an ACCS sticker that is on the center of the hood, right below the headlight. It stands for Altitude Compensating Control System, it was the factory's attempt at making the sled more reliable for altitude change. Some people remove that, others keep it. I left mine alone. It should be the set of tubes coming off of the carbs, then going into an aluminum type manifold that's mounted onto the left(?) front of the air box. it's not very big, just big enough for those lines to come in (maybe more) and then for them to leave. My memory's a little fuzzy.

As far as the oil lines, I honestly have no clue, maybe some other SnoWester will chime in.

Woodsrider · Oct 21, 2014

I believe one of the best mods involved clutch work IE spring and weights in primary and a different cam in the driven. The Idea was to bring rpm up a little to 8500.

alaska_guy · Oct 21, 2014

Thanks guys for the info. Very helpful group. I will try and find a hood. Yes, it looks to be a wedge chassis, looks different from my edge chassis sled that I had in the past.

I also was able to salvage the hood... It looks bad, but functions well now. I use this trick A LOT on old pickups that have broken plastic tabs, or any structural crack in plastic... Granted its usually always on the back side, so you never see the stuff, but it holds like no ones business!

A plumber friend of mine told me a while ago to use black pipe dope... You know, the kind you get at the plumbing shop for black PVC pipe, well it creates a chemical bond and basically adheres the plastic together chemically. It dries quickly and is strong as heck! I did a layer on the top of the hood and going to do a layer on the bottom of the hood cracks tomorrow. It's already plenty strong, but figure its worth doing right, plus the stuff is like $5 a can and goes a long ways.

Didn't know if anyone else was in need of this tip, but this stuff works and you can find it practically everywhere!

I will post a picture of the sled so maybe you guys can help me out a little more.

WyoUltra · Oct 22, 2014

The thing in the red circle is The ACCS that I mentioned earlier. And yes, it is a wedge sled.

alaska_guy · Oct 22, 2014

Thanks,

last question... Is this sled a 121" track or a 133"? I have searched online and looked at the manuals and found contradicting info. The manual says 133". any easy way to check without jacking up the rear and trying to run a tape measure the length and multiplying by 2?

the fix-it guy · Oct 22, 2014

Take a side view picture, does it say sks any where? From the pictures you have it looks like it could be a 133, a better side view would help.

n2otoofast4u · Oct 22, 2014

The rear bumper area looks to be an sks

550iq · Oct 22, 2014

What you have is an XLT RMK of the day - the last of its kind. It should have a 15" x 133.5" x 1.5" track and a narrow front end. Like Woodsrider said, pay particular attention to the drive train. XLT's were weak on the bottom end, beginning life around 4500rpm and pulling smartly all the way to the mid-8000's. They like to ride up in the power band at all times to be efficient and require clean/correct clutching/gearing/carburation to attain this. They don't mind towing light loads, but they are not freighters and will become unruly if you try.

Be lucky you do not have an XLT SP version with the high intake ports and 38mm carbs. One of Polaris' not so great engines.

By the way, as I see it, 1997 was the acme year for the XLT. The 600 twin saw to that. 550iq.

alaska_guy · Oct 22, 2014

Great info!

The sled is a RMK... It says rocky mountain king on the back of the sled... I was able to clean her up a little more today and get the windshield installed.

Anyone have any idea if I can get shocks for this thing that wont break the bank? I haven't heard anything yet about that... I have the purple springs with the black shocks.

I also need to find some hyfax's that will fit the sled... They look near original too.

stomper · Oct 22, 2014

Nice sled. As far as the shocks and hyfax goes any polaris dealership can get replacement parts for it but if its anything like here, the polaris prices might be a bit expensive. You can also looks for a recreation suppy place that sells aftermarket stuff for sleds and quads. Should be easy to find. Do a google search or look in the local yellow pages for sled dealers in your area. Being you are in alaska(if your user name is correct).....there should be lots of sled places around.

alaska_guy · Oct 22, 2014

Yea, Hyfax I can find anywhere...

I called local polaris shop and they wanted $125 per shock for the fronts! Non rebuildable! And they wanted $135 for the rears...

$500 for some shocks... I think not!

Anyone have a line on a company or eBay link for the suspension stuff?

Well, just need front suspension parts...

I decided to stretch the sled... Got a deal on a 144" skidoo skid off a summit with a 144x2" track for $150! Felt that was a good deal... Figure I will gear down from a 9Tooth to an 8Tooth and should be able to stuff that track in there.

Oh, the skid doesn't come with the shocks, so might cost me around $300 total for the upgrade, but I think its gonna be well worth it as we get 170" on average at my dads cabin.

WyoUltra · Oct 23, 2014

You will have to drop to 8 tooth drivers to fit that 2" paddle under there anyways, It will fit, but it will be tight. There might be a chance that you have to notch the track to fit under the coolers. I do not know for sure, the Ultra I had already had a 2" paddle on it. Depending on what you want for get up and go, and top speed, you might consider 7 tooth drivers.

As far as front shocks are concerned I would look here, and you can find the part number here, on the left page. Unfortunately I can't tell whether or not you need the #12, or the #13 shock. There's also these on ebay, but they are used.

stomper · Oct 23, 2014

Also put an ad up in the classifides on here.

sno*jet · Oct 24, 2014

you could just extend the stock skid for a lot less work and similar results. possibly better results depending on how you mount the skidoo skid.
https://www.google.com/search?q=wps...rg.mozilla:en-US:official&channel=sb&tbm=shop
are your shocks blown? ive been fixin up 90s sleds for years and never seen a blown one that wasnt high pressure gas. their not like beater cars that improve greatly with cheap new shocks...
nice sled
oh and 2" should fit w 8 tooths. might have to loosen the chaincase or just remove and re-install it. i would never run 7 tooth in a 2.52 pitch.

wrtmani · Oct 24, 2014

Just found this thread, I have the same sled as yours, just triple piped instead of stock like yours.

XLT's had the three line oil pump until mid production 1997. The three line 600's from introduction in 1995 until mid-'97 had the three line pump. The problem was the PTO side oil hole was for the crank was cast about 20% smaller. It wasn't until mid-'97 that the blocks were fixed with a stronger crank with an extra bearing and oil line right at the PTO end of the crank behind the clutch and the correct size oil hole. Look to see if there is an oil fitting behind the clutch to tell you it's a 4-line unit.

The second winter I owned mine I spent on crutches after major ankle surgery that October. Had a lot of spare time to learn about my sled, I love it a lot. I've always been a fan of the Wedge chassis and especially Polaris Triples.

Great sled!

alaska_guy · Oct 24, 2014

Interesting info.... So, I haven't picked up the skid or track yet because i got swamped with chores around the house before the snow flies more than it already has.

Question:
Does the WPS kit allow me to run a 144" track?? If so, that would be sweet! I basically am just looking for a longer track so I can play in the powder.

The sled has 4500 miles on it, seems pretty well taken care of besides the carb boots are dryrotting out and there is oil on the exhaust side of the heads.

If I do the WPS 10" kit, I assume I need to extend my tunnel would I have to get a different cooler? Any help would be appreciated. I don't want to overheat the thing.

I removed the belt housing to get a better look at the belt/clutches and took some pictures... I am wondering if my sled is actually a 96, and not a 97 as the guy said. That or it was manufactured in 96, but is a 1997... That makes more sense.

I found a roll stamping that appears to be from 96.

Pictures are worth a thousand words....

Roll Marking

Zoomed out of Roll Marking

Clutch

Hood Sticker

Found on Sled

PTO Side of heads/Exhaust side

NON PTO Side of Heads/Exhaust side

Sticker

Found, this link, pretty interesting read.

http://www.wheatfarm.com/snowmobile/info/polaris-sled-faq.pdf

1997 600 XLT triple

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