Another weak DOO part and the fix for it.

make SURE that you get the little clip seated! I didnt on mine and it came off and truned everything into dust! So next go round I drilled a hole all the way through the center and put a carrage bolt and washer in there so that clip isnt going anywhere!

Pull rope?

You mind me askin' what pull rope you got there??

that reminds me of the guy that was with us, started his sled at einos and the rope stayed out. he headed back to west with the rope wraped around his handle bar. about half way back rewind caught, ripped his trottle and his kill switch off his handle bar. bent the handle bar down and threw him off the trail and just missed some tress at 60 mph. LMAO

Wow, nice piece, always been an issue on doos...since...the 670s?

Rebuilt my ZX clutch 2-3 times, rebuilt my Rev clutch at least once...

all lies, the XP is the perfect sled that will never ever fail or leave you stranded, just ask me

rotax said:

Wow, nice piece, always been an issue on doos...since...the 670s?

Rebuilt my ZX clutch 2-3 times, rebuilt my Rev clutch at least once...

Click to expand...

X2, this is not an new issue. Had it happen to my 99 670X , and my 02 800X. Good find on the part.

I cured that recoil problem for good on my XP. Two words - electric start! I have used my recoil on the XP ONCE by accident...We had stopped on a hill for a break, and upon leaving I grabbed the recoil handle and pulled without thinking and the sled started. My buddies thought that it was hilarious and were laughing there a$$es off because I had been braggin' for months about how the recoil had never been used.

Knock on wood, I have had 5 various year 670's, and other than broken ropes, I have had no recoil problems on any of them. Unfortunately, I still have two 670's, and I think that I just jinxed myself...

yep, i kept saying, if it happened one more time on the rev, i'd be adding E start.

then, well...went another route, and had electric start factory! hah


i def don't miss yanking the rope for 5 minutes after flooding...
i don't miss burning my hands on hot cans/pipes tryin to repair recoils
i don't miss having to go home, and cutting a trip short cuz of a dead recoil.

haha anyway... this puck along w/ the 'thread the center and loctite/bolt and washers onto the end' trick...sure should eleviate alot of the recoil issues, at least for 1 season...

TruckerBallZach said:

make SURE that you get the little clip seated! I didnt on mine and it came off and truned everything into dust! So next go round I drilled a hole all the way through the center and put a carrage bolt and washer in there so that clip isnt going anywhere!

Click to expand...

Did you put the nut on the inside or outside?

TruckerBallZach said:

make SURE that you get the little clip seated! I didnt on mine and it came off and truned everything into dust! So next go round I drilled a hole all the way through the center and put a carrage bolt and washer in there so that clip isnt going anywhere!

Click to expand...

I had the same problem and same idea but ended up using a large panhead screw and washer, the post seemed to take hold of the screw very well.

hey AR i sent you a pm. thanks dan

Boy - I guess we just crossed that fall equinox and it's time for many to start working on their sleds eh? I still have an ATV motor apart from last spring. Been busy in the shop...



[Cut / Paste from last seasons thread]

The pawls are new and you can really thanks Big John for telling me that those were also a culprit.

I knocked out a few sample alum housings a cpl yrs ago and John told me that they were only half the problem, and that I needed to make a better pawl too. At that point it was too late in the season to play with designing any more snowmachine parts, the next yr I was just way too busy in the shop to mess with these. I finally got a chance to knock out the pawls recently and even that had some issues getting off the ground, but we got'm now.

This material is a "Heat Stabalized" Nylon and aint really all that cheap.

The pawl is notably thicker in the center section as you can see at first glance when you put the two beside each other, but the base flange is half aggin thicker than stock, and the pawl actually reaches into the "cage" [as I have seen it refered to here recently] 1/16" further than stock.

What I really wanted to sell were the housings. These are an exact duplicate of stock, but made outta alum. I have had one on my machine for two yrs. One thing that I LOVE aboot this design (besides the obvious structural integrity) is the fact that you CAN werk on it! I have an E-clip that you can take off and on many times in the bush if needed w/o special tools.

I have pawls, but I am out of housings and don't anticipate making any of them untill next fall at this point. I sent out a cpl housing/pawl kits to a cpl guys to test. I certainly don't see any reason that they will not work for them, but it would be good to git some third party results.

We had a new pawl on one of our machines this weekend, but 10 klicks from the truck the throttle cable died, but it was fine 'till then. (I don't think they are related - but ???)

I am interested to know if Adrenelin got to go riding this weekend and how it all assembled? I am not too eager to push the pawls for use in the OEM housing as the keeper on the end just aint very re-use freindly and really can bugger up the end of the whole deal.

FWIW - these are not going to be anywhere's close to the OEM cost of $10! And as of yet I can't say how much longer they will last. Up untill a week ago when Adrenelin posted his pic - I thought that all the pawl issues were weakening from the heat. THAT is the issue that I designed around. "Kickbacks" will likely still doo damage to these. Prolly not as much, but it is still plastic, and maybe having a shear point between your arm and the motor aint such a bad idea either?

I can still knock out more pawls yet as I only have aboot a dozen in stock right now.

You guys chew on that for a bit while I solidify what the asking price will be for a pawl by itself.

I was actually interested to see how it would re-assemble for him with a stock housing. (Alum is where it's at! )


And then this:


OK - I am right back to where I originally expected to be. With everything considered, for the pawl we are at:

$50 each incl shipping to the US via USPS.

$60 USF each incl shipping via UPS to the Great White North.

Prolly just go with Paypal on this...

This direct marketing thing is new to me and we will hafta see how it goes. I run a production machine shop and deal in large lots of whatever it may be. A "product line" is a diff experience and it may take a while for me to come to terms of the assosiated costs of marketing and dealing with individual sales.

I hope this doesn't make you think that I am trying to gouge as I hate it when it's done to me. I am not trying to git rich on the first batch, but I think all-told, this will be where I will need to be to make it worthwhile.

If you are interested you can PM me here or send e-mail to mpminc1989@verizon.net


Like I said before, I am really wanting to sell a more complete fix which is the pawl you have seen, but also a complete new solid aluminum cover. If it makes you feel warmer, fuzzier, and other such emotions - I will add the buzz words of "Billet" and "CNC" which most of you really don't know - but will assume they add value. LOL!

I have plenty of stock on pawls now. I have not started building more housings yet. May have to start thinking about that soon tho. I have a new (additional?) CNC lathe this yr that I can get time on now.

I still want to caution everyone about puting that Doo housing back together! I think that re-assembly of that setup is a time bomb! Once that clip groove has been compromised .... I guess as long as you know it when tearing it apart and you use a die grinder or some other such method so's not to bugger the shaft???

Let me find a pic of the covers here somewhere...

how mcuh

How mcuh for the kit?

I will need to run the numbers all over on that again ... but to just throw a number out there rat now ... we're prolly lookin at $225 for a cover AND a pawl. We'll hafta see... That's about half again what a new complete unit is from Doo, but you will need your old guts!

Not sure if it's mentioned in any of that above or not - but my covers use an E-clip in place of that abortion that Doo uses. However - for mass production - their setup fits the application. Mine comes apart in the field (if you ... say ... blow a rope?) with simply popping off the E-clip.

Mine has been on my sled ever since the date on the pic, and I aint for sure, but I think we have one on our other one as of this last season too. ??? (The mind is a terrible thing to lose eh? )

Now it must be said that I generally use my E-Start, but I doo grab the rope a LOT more often now simply as a test point. The boys sled doesn't have e-start, so .... OK - NOW I REMEMBER! We were in Wawa (Ontario) in Jan when it was minus temps no-matter what scale you were using - and first thing in the morning his sled started rat up - but the rope was in his hands. So - since mine had E-start - we robbed the recoil off mine and put on his. So now I am sporting a NEW housing!

BTW - his was OEM. That's why we changed them out eh? Changing the rope with the OEM housing is just not fun IMO.

I did send out 2 or 3 "kits" for trials, but it was late in the season this last spring and for all I know they haven't seen any snow yet. Which is my fault...

Once I was ready to run them this last fall I kept jumping back and forth constantly second guessing my material of choice. But now that's all fingered out. And currently with a bank of pawls, fixtures built, programs wrote ... that shouldn't be an issue now. And with the addition of a pr of 40" x 96" CNC lathes, I should be able to get some open time for a machine with a chuck on it instead of the collet/bar machines that I run 99% of the time.

800HMRK said:

Did you put the nut on the inside or outside?

Click to expand...

Nylock nut on the outside, 150 miles and no issues...yet

Thanks for the replies about the bolt and nut. I've been worried about my rewind coming apart again ever since the first time. I have to admit it wasn't one of BPR's brightest designs.