Trailer Wall Insulation

sledhead_79 · Jan 6, 2017

What are guys using to insulate the walls and ceiling of enclosed trailers? Thinking 1" foam board bewteen the studs.

Purchased a used trailer last Nov that came with heater, and pretty sure the walls aren't insulated because the lid isn't finished.

meathooker · Jan 6, 2017

Most use 1" board.

I'm tossing around the idea of spraying the walls and ceiling. Not sure if it's worth the extra effort

NorthMNSledder · Jan 7, 2017

meathooker said:
Most use 1" board.

I'm tossing around the idea of spraying the walls and ceiling. Not sure if it's worth the extra effort

This is what were were thinking also. Thought the spray in would insulated a little bit better and maybe ad a bit more stiffness to the walls.

sledhead_79 · Jan 7, 2017

Will a guy even notice the difference of a R value of 4 compared to 6.5 when it comes to a trailer? Is it worth the extra $200+ for that small of a margin between foam board and spray foam?

DUKHTR3 · Jan 7, 2017

If u can spray foam for extra $200 I would so it. My local guy that did my floor wanted $1500 to do the walls so I opted for foam board with foil back.

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meathooker · Jan 8, 2017

NorthMNSledder said:
This is what were were thinking also. Thought the spray in would insulated a little bit better and maybe ad a bit more stiffness to the walls.

Stiffness and possibly more dent resistant

sledhead_79 said:
Will a guy even notice the difference of a R value of 4 compared to 6.5 when it comes to a trailer? Is it worth the extra $200+ for that small of a margin between foam board and spray foam?

$200 is worth it for sure

DUKHTR3 said:
If u can spray foam for extra $200 I would so it. My local guy that did my floor wanted $1500 to do the walls so I opted for foam board with foil back.

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Ive heard conflicting views on doing the floor. Some say it can trap moisture between the foam and frame causing it to corrode quickly. What are your thoughts after having it done?

DUKHTR3 · Jan 8, 2017

Have a aluminum frame so shouldn't have to worry room much about it but only time will tell. Plus with the entire floor sprayed I don't think u will get to much moisture on the frame. The foam is supper ridged. We sleep in the trailer and it heats much better with the floor insulated. As of now I won't ever own another trailer without insulating the floor.

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meathooker · Jan 8, 2017

DUKHTR3 said:
Have a aluminum frame so shouldn't have to worry room much about it but only time will tell. Plus with the entire floor sprayed I don't think u will get to much moisture on the frame. The foam is supper ridged. We sleep in the trailer and it heats much better with the floor insulated. As of now I won't ever own another trailer without insulating the floor.

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What about water draining through the floor into the foam?

I'm planning on the seamless TPO coil flooring so that should be "water tight" from above. I've always wanted to insulate the floor - it may be time to try it.

sledhead_79 · Sep 20, 2017

Anyone know where a guy can get that interior paneling at (Home Depot, Menards, lumber yard)? About to pull the trigger on insulating the trailer, but I need some of that white paneling for the lid.

Brown Dog ADV · Sep 27, 2017

White paneling

sledhead_79 said:
Anyone know where a guy can get that interior paneling at (Home Depot, Menards, lumber yard)? About to pull the trigger on insulating the trailer, but I need some of that white paneling for the lid.

I know some people are using the white FRP paneling similar to this from Depot. Although at 19.7 pounds per panel it could get heavy.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/4-ft-x-8-ft-White-090-FRP-Wall-Board-MFTF12IXA480009600/100389836

donbrown · Sep 27, 2017

meathooker said:
Stiffness and possibly more dent resistant

$200 is worth it for sure

Ive heard conflicting views on doing the floor. Some say it can trap moisture between the foam and frame causing it to corrode quickly. What are your thoughts after having it done?

Just bought a trailer with factory insulation. 4 types ... Foam 1/4 inch bubble wrap roll with reflective side.
Foam paneling 1/2 inch to 4 inches thick.
Regular fiberglass house type insulation
Spray on.

Here is what learned from at least 6 trailer manufacturers.

Bubble wrap the cheapest but least insulator. They literally wrap the beams and rivet the exterior thru the bubble wrap.

Foam paneling is most common because light weight, ridged doesn't slide around and compress.

House type fiberglass is okay for horizontal surface but rips falls and compresses on vertical strips.. Used to fill gaps.

Spray on was seldom mentioned and when asked they said creates pockets for moisture when it cracks but used to fill gaps.

Don't know what kind of heater using but an interior human occupancy approved propane powered heater is gonna byproduct a lot of moisture. Best to have propane heater with an external air supply. Some trailers have both.

donbrown · Sep 27, 2017

sledhead_79 said:
Anyone know where a guy can get that interior paneling at (Home Depot, Menards, lumber yard)? About to pull the trigger on insulating the trailer, but I need some of that white paneling for the lid.

You can get thin sheets of plastic/polymer a few mm thick and not deal with any wood. Ive used it before BUT breaks when really cold if bang into it. I'm sure they make materials for cold weather.

donbrown · Sep 27, 2017

meathooker said:
What about water draining through the floor into the foam?

I'm planning on the seamless TPO coil flooring so that should be "water tight" from above. I've always wanted to insulate the floor - it may be time to try it.

The only material any trailer mfg said they would do to a floor is to put TYVEK between the floor and road.

Talked to Nudo floor manufacturing. Floor must breath or plywood will delaminate.

donbrown · Sep 27, 2017

meathooker said:
What about water draining through the floor into the foam?

I'm planning on the seamless TPO coil flooring so that should be "water tight" from above. I've always wanted to insulate the floor - it may be time to try it.

Looking around it seems this seamless TPO coil flooring is over $35 per foot at 8.5 feet wide. I'm not sure it will stand up to carbides. Even a polyethylene NODU floor gets cut but the bonding to the plywood keeps it in place.

Suggest you look at several layers of a fiberglass resin. With the final resin coat impregnated with silica sand and or rubber flakes / dots like used on garage floors. You can also look at materials used to coat a commercial swimming pool. I used ELASTOMERIC paints that stretches with temp changes and worked pretty good.

Ive had about 10 trailers over the past 30 years and the best thing Ive seen so far is the NUDO flooring, the metal paint the USN applies to aircraft carriers flight decks, Marine grade nonskid epoxy, garage floor epoxy, fiberglass resin, swimming pool paint, and elastomeric paint. It is getting harder to find good material with EPA requiring low VOCS gasses.

You could resin the floor and apply fiberglass, carbon, Kevlar or dyneema fabric and have a really tough floor. I would lay the fabric in sections so it flexes and is easier to cut out. I think you can do this for less than a $35 a foot seamless TPO coil flooring and really cheap if you go to a manufacturer and buy expired epoxy materials.

donbrown · Sep 27, 2017

Don't know what kind of heater using but an interior human occupancy approved propane powered heater is gonna byproduct a lot of moisture. Best to have propane heater with an external air supply. Some trailers have both.

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Trailer Wall Insulation

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