EZ Ryde 174 M8T Install

M8Freerider · Oct 3, 2013

Has anybody had any experience installing an Ez Ryde 174 skid into an M8 chassis (2010). I have an Ez Ryde 153 (which is for sale with Camo 2.5 track) on the sled now. Called Ez Ryde and they don't have a template, but did supply me with a drawing which makes me a wee bit nervous as I am not a 100% sure of location. Also was contemplating skid location – and I don't want to start a frenzy of emails, but having those mounting points closer to the drivers will help with attack angle support and theoretically a more nimble sled – correct? Any help would be much appreciated. I attached the drawing hope you can see it.

LoudHandle · Oct 3, 2013

With the EZ-Ryde that front mount point is everything. You can not go forward or back much, as it sets the geometry of the suspension and also track tension. I have heard of guys (RMSA Racers) moving the front mount up or down to change ski pressure and increase or decrease ski pressure. If you change driver size or change the tail roller size you may need to adjust it to the front or rear but other than that it is what they claim it should be.

M8Freerider · Oct 3, 2013

Your right the distance between the rear drop bracket (centre) and skid mount position is crucial, but if you keep that distance to the recommended length and move the skid forward would it not be more responsive ( as much as a 174 can be).

LoudHandle · Oct 3, 2013

IMO both of those dimensions are critical ( the 13.560" set back for the upper arm mount and the 29.660" to the rear upper shock mount). The only dimension I know of guys playing with is the 0.750" up from driver center line ( for less ski pressure you lower it closer to zero or centerline, for more you increase it more than the 0.750").

Or am I misunderstanding you?

M8Freerider · Oct 4, 2013

No thats good information and I appreciate the feedback. Might not be wise to play with the 13.560 measurment.

LoudHandle · Oct 4, 2013

Just for your information; The shorter suspensions (14X series, 15X series, and 16X series) move that initial setback point based on which length track and actual driver diameter. But the 174" is the only track used on the suspension you have so that number is pretty firm. You can play with it some, I would assume they already did this during the development phase when they were figuring out the optimum swing arm length, but remember that the tail rollers need to take up the difference. If you were to move it forward, the tail rollers will need to move further back to tension the track. If you move it back too much you won't be able to get the suspension in at all.

M8Freerider · Oct 4, 2013

Looks like after doing some more research that the distance between the rear drop bracket bogy wheel (centre) and the skid mounting point are crucial. You can probably move the skid around a little (forward/ back) as long as the distance does not change between the two. Think I'm going to make a template so I don't make any mistakes. That front mounting point has to be square with driver.

WINJE · Dec 7, 2013

M8Freerider said:
Has anybody had any experience installing an Ez Ryde 174 skid into an M8 chassis (2010). I have an Ez Ryde 153 (which is for sale with Camo 2.5 track) on the sled now. Called Ez Ryde and they don't have a template, but did supply me with a drawing which makes me a wee bit nervous as I am not a 100% sure of location. Also was contemplating skid location – and I don't want to start a frenzy of emails, but having those mounting points closer to the drivers will help with attack angle support and theoretically a more nimble sled – correct? Any help would be much appreciated. I attached the drawing hope you can see it.

Have you talked to Cody at ez Ryde about your skid. I'm dealing with the same thing on my sled right now. I went from a 153" 2.25" to a 162" 2.6" so I bought the new rails from ez Ryde and rebuilt my skid. But now my sled is super heavy in the front end and not wroth a crap in the woods. I need it to be nimble like you said above but how is my question steeper attack/approach angle would help a lot I think.

One more thing: on the ez ryde skids where the front shock mounts to the rails I was wandering if you could drill new holes further forward on the rails to make the attack angle steeper just like a 1" or so... On your 174" I think you use the same mounting locations as the 162" but you need a stiffer spring in the rear.

LoudHandle · Dec 7, 2013

fmfracer450 said:
Have you talked to Cody at ez Ryde about your skid. I'm dealing with the same thing on my sled right now. I went from a 153" 2.25" to a 162" 2.6" so I bought the new rails from ez Ryde and rebuilt my skid. But now my sled is super heavy in the front end and not wroth a crap in the woods. I need it to be nimble like you said above but how is my question steeper attack/approach angle would help a lot I think.

One more thing: on the ez ryde skids where the front shock mounts to the rails I was wandering if you could drill new holes further forward on the rails to make the attack angle steeper just like a 1" or so... On your 174" I think you use the same mounting locations as the 162" but you need a stiffer spring in the rear.

I have all the mounting locations for all the skids into a Polaris sleds and they all have their own unique location to be mounted in. The biggest difference is the 174", The front arm mounts are all in a cluster about two inches in diameter but they all have their ideal spot. The rear is spaced depending on the arm length. I personally think jacking them around trying to second guess the manufactures R&D is counterproductive, and trying to get a steeper attack angle is ludicrous.

You want to get up on the snow, right? Unless you enjoy trenching, but you do ride AC, so maybe that is what your used to. (Sorry, forgive me)

The 174" does use a stiffer rear spring so you may have dialed up too much preload already causing your problem. Anyway if you have too much ski pressure; increase the preload on the front EZ-ryde shock, and decrease the preload on the rear EZ-ryde shock. You will find a point that you will like it.

WINJE · Dec 7, 2013

It also says on ez Rydes site that you can move the front bolt up or down depending on how your sleds handling. I'm going to try what you said and we will see. Do you think adjusting it as little as a 1/4" will make a difference? Thanks

LoudHandle · Dec 7, 2013

It is hard to diagnose over the web, but I would back the rear spring preload off quite a bit, from the sounds of things first. Nearly to where it just engages the retainer and then an extra 1/8". Work up from there until it rides well. For the springs a turn or two at he most, per test run. Bring it in slow or you may overshoot and get frustrated. (Assuming you have the Fox shocks) And yes in extreme situations you may need to raise or lower the front arm mounting point.

For a primarily trail sled you want the ski's to be flat with the rear suspension.

Most mountain sleds you will want the center of the sled (front of rear suspension) to be slightly lower so you get good transfer off the skis for playfulness and ease of steering.

graham_r · Dec 8, 2013

CR Racing makes an adjuster block for the front bolt hole. It moves the hole up and down to adjust ski pressure. it is an on the hill adjuster.

M8Freerider · Dec 9, 2013

fmfracer450 said:
Have you talked to Cody at ez Ryde about your skid. I'm dealing with the same thing on my sled right now. I went from a 153" 2.25" to a 162" 2.6" so I bought the new rails from ez Ryde and rebuilt my skid. But now my sled is super heavy in the front end and not wroth a crap in the woods. I need it to be nimble like you said above but how is my question steeper attack/approach angle would help a lot I think.

One more thing: on the ez ryde skids where the front shock mounts to the rails I was wandering if you could drill new holes further forward on the rails to make the attack angle steeper just like a 1" or so... On your 174" I think you use the same mounting locations as the 162" but you need a stiffer spring in the rear.

Yes I have been talking with Cody (super helpful). I had a 153 EZ Ryde already installed so I mounted the 174 in the 153(EZ Ryde location) holes to get the skid as close to the driver as possible. I am also installing the Nextech adjuster plate so you can move the mounting point up or down. The more you can drop the skid the less ski pressure you will have (in theory) and wheeling isn't an issue with a 174.

I attached the 174 measurements.

link to Nextech adjuster http://www.carbonsled.com/news.

View attachment 220338

M8Freerider · Dec 9, 2013

fmfracer450 said:
Have you talked to Cody at ez Ryde about your skid. I'm dealing with the same thing on my sled right now. I went from a 153" 2.25" to a 162" 2.6" so I bought the new rails from ez Ryde and rebuilt my skid. But now my sled is super heavy in the front end and not wroth a crap in the woods. I need it to be nimble like you said above but how is my question steeper attack/approach angle would help a lot I think.

One more thing: on the ez ryde skids where the front shock mounts to the rails I was wandering if you could drill new holes further forward on the rails to make the attack angle steeper just like a 1" or so... On your 174" I think you use the same mounting locations as the 162" but you need a stiffer spring in the rear.

Forgot to ask - what shocks are you running in your skid. Also, did you talk to Cody about using the 174 rails with the 153/162 arm?

WINJE · Dec 9, 2013

M8Freerider said:
Forgot to ask - what shocks are you running in your skid. Also, did you talk to Cody about using the 174 rails with the 153/162 arm?

I didn't ask Cody that question because I'm only running a 162". My shock are fox zero pro's. I like that adjuster from carbonsled.com that mounds on the front tunnel right. Where my front suspension bolts up to my tunnel there's two holes one in front and then the one in the back where my suspension is currently mounted. Is that the hole it should be in?

LoudHandle · Dec 9, 2013

The older (2007 and older from memory) 16x" series used a longer arm (41" center to center), the same length they currently only use in the 174" suspensions.

The newer 15x" and 16x" series suspensions use the same arm (37 1/4" length).

M8Freerider · Dec 10, 2013

fmfracer450 said:
I didn't ask Cody that question because I'm only running a 162". My shock are fox zero pro's. I like that adjuster from carbonsled.com that mounds on the front tunnel right. Where my front suspension bolts up to my tunnel there's two holes one in front and then the one in the back where my suspension is currently mounted. Is that the hole it should be in?

Sorry - don't know why I thought you were running 174... The adjustable plate will go over the hole you drilled for the 162 skid mounting points (back from where your previous mounting location was). If you have too much preload in the rear shock it will increase your ski pressure. I wouldn't play around with shock location at this point, try adjusting shock set up and if that doesn't work give Cody a call. I attached link of EZ ryde and adjustable plate installation. Plate installation is at 5:11min.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FIHjYUIF3vU

WINJE · Dec 10, 2013

M8Freerider said:
Sorry - don't know why I thought you were running 174... The adjustable plate will go over the hole you drilled for the 162 skid mounting points (back from where your previous mounting location was). If you have too much preload in the rear shock it will increase your ski pressure. I wouldn't play around with shock location at this point, try adjusting shock set up and if that doesn't work give Cody a call. I attached link of EZ ryde and adjustable plate installation. Plate installation is at 5:11min.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FIHjYUIF3vU

Im going to adjust my rear spring like you guys said. My mounting locations havent switch, there still in the same spots that my 153 skid were in but i got that figured out so its ok... https://ezryde.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/ProClimb-Manual-2012.pdf . letter l to see the picture. Theres two holes drilled one in front and one an inch behind it. Mine is bolted in the back hole. thats where i will put that adjuster plate if i get one

M8Freerider · Dec 10, 2013

Good luck with your project - hope the sled works for you!

WINJE · Dec 10, 2013

M8Freerider said:
Good luck with your project - hope the sled works for you!

You to. You ever ride mt baker area?

EZ Ryde 174 M8T Install

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