track change on Pro RMK

its pretty straight forward, make sure you have something to hold the rear of the machine in the air, and remove the skid, there are 4 bolts holding the skid, impact tools is nice for this job because if you remove 1 bolt on one side the other side bolt would just be turning around because nothing is holding onto the skid shaft. remove secondary clutch to get to the left side of the driver, there is 6 nuts holding on the the driver on the left side, remove the exhaust can out of the way, then remove brake calliper, drain out the chain case oil, remove rotor, now be careful removing the sleeve thats in the jackshaft seal as there is a o-ring on the shaft, a small o-ring pick will do the job to pick the ring out of the shaft, remove chain case cover and remove the sprocket, and then move the driver towards the left side and pull it out, assemble everything in reverse. i hope this helps

What track are you putting on?

Here is a good one from Rick!

Rick! said:

Order a chaincase seal right now as you will probably damage it removing the driveshaft.

Just replacing a 2.4" series 5.1 track is a pain and it's hard to imagine installing a track that is .100" taller. Maybe if the chaincase is removed, you can save the seal and a lot of swearing when swapping tracks. But, the chaincase has to be rotated into position on the bottom end so maybe the footrest thingy would also need to be removed and possibly loosen the fender to allow more chaincase movement. There is also a stud plate on the top two rear flange positions that would need to be removed or pushed back. You can probably remove the plate after the suspension is out and letting the track hang on the driveshaft.

If you ride cratered and whooped out single track to the hills, you probably want to consider gluing the chaincase on during installation.

Good luck.

Click to expand...

When I put my powerclaw on it was such a tite fit I trimmed down a couple rows of lugs to aid in putting it on. Definitely made it easier, I ripped the shaft seal on the first install.

If you've never done this before the removal of the rear skid bolts can be a PITA. I find that my cordless impact works well. I loosen one end and try the other. If it just spins then I tight the end I loosened and go back to the other side to see if it will break free. Going back and forth like this eventually gets it.

Someone mentioned hold the sled up in the air. I prefer to put down a blanket and put the sled on it's side. Two people make it very easy to remove the rear skid and help a ton when putting it back on. If the sled is on it's side I can put the skid on by myself by using my body to push into the suspension.