My proposed rear skid setup ?!?

Insaneboltrounder/sjohns · Mar 23, 2014

Last year I tried a setup I read about here and it didn't work , for me . It was a 13 setup with a longer front skid shock and limiter all the way long. I wondered how it was possible this could not be a wheelie monster and I was right. I like the idea of keeping as much shock travel as possible for ride quality and bumps ( and my 53 yo knees). This setup left the skis in the air way too much and hampered deep snow steep slope riding a ton , for me.

So here is my new plan. I have zbros shocks in the skid. The front one is longer than stock. I also bought their susp coupler. So..... Rear in the Lower hole , front in the upper hole , limiter all the way out. Coupler adjusted to either max or next to max coupling to keep the skis down. These can be adjusted in the field so I can mess with them then.

I feel this should give max susp travel and bump absorption and keep the skis planted. I'm not sure if I should use the upper (2012) skid position or not ?

live2beel · Mar 23, 2014

I would wonder if you are going to make the front feel even heavier with the mounting in the bottom rear hole. I think these sleds feel so heavy in the front already from the factory due to they have a lot of rake to them.

Insaneboltrounder/sjohns · Mar 23, 2014

The problem I had was the front lifting too much. I'm trying to get the skis planted better. But I don't want the steering heavy either. Maybe I should try it in the whole 13 position and the coupler dailed

Arctic Thunder · Mar 23, 2014

The closer the front arm is parallel with the ground the less lift you will get with the skid. So if you have a longer arm and move the mount point up, vertically on the skid or drop the mount point in the tunnel you will gain travel because the arm is longer but will not increase the lift. Again the steeper the angle the more lift your going to get. So just dropping the skid down by adding a longer arm and shock your making the arm steeper and you will increase lift and decrease ski pressure.

Thunder

Insaneboltrounder/sjohns · Mar 23, 2014

Turns out the exit shock isn't longer than stock. ....

av8er · Mar 24, 2014

I can make this real easy for you

buy a Kmod Conversion Kit or a Kmod with Raptors

XFIRE800 · Mar 25, 2014

Whoever buys my sled can have the 5 minute secret to keeping the skis down on these sleds without killing the handling

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Insaneboltrounder/sjohns · Mar 25, 2014

Polaris motor ? Remove a few spark plugs ?

Ill Named · Mar 25, 2014

On my 12, I relocated the lower mount of the front arm 11/16" further forward on the rails. Loosened the limiter strap all the way and kept it in the stock hole in the front of my tunnel. I don't have a problem with it wheeling at all and the feed back is great. Floats good and steers and climbs well. 162. Maybe give it a try.....

rockymtnboy · Mar 25, 2014

Ill Named said:
On my 12, I relocated the lower mount of the front arm 11/16" further forward on the rails. Loosened the limiter strap all the way and kept it in the stock hole in the front of my tunnel. I don't have a problem with it wheeling at all and the feed back is great. Floats good and steers and climbs well. 162. Maybe give it a try.....

Pics pls

Suzzy-Q · Mar 26, 2014

Ill Named said:
On my 12, I relocated the lower mount of the front arm 11/16" further forward on the rails. Loosened the limiter strap all the way and kept it in the stock hole in the front of my tunnel. I don't have a problem with it wheeling at all and the feed back is great. Floats good and steers and climbs well. 162. Maybe give it a try.....[/

This is how I got my 12 as well. Tried various setups in the 13 mounting pos but I prefer the 12 holes front/back with the relocated centre shock u can run stock or tighter spring tension this way aswell on the centre shock, don't have to run it bag loose and have it pound out on the bumps

geo · Mar 26, 2014

I liked the above set-up too on my 12. Kept the front light with little throttle.

The new owner of my '12 asked for a little help for his '13 buddies 'cause they were switching sleds during the rides. They moved stuff to this and have ridden since with no track stabbing and original tips.
Try the lower hole on the rear and adjust preload accordingly. I thought this helped get up on the snow. Very Polaris like lol.

Ill Named · Mar 26, 2014

rockymtnboy said:
Pics pls

Sorry I don't have any pics. The idler wheel blocks whatever pics I could take of it anyway. It's just a hole drilled, center of the rail like the stock one, and 11/16 of an inch further up the rails. It allows the limiter strap to do it's job when all the way loosened. In the stock location, the shock bottoms out before the strap catches. Pizz poor design if you ask me. I also installed an anti-stab kit, just in case...

xfiredude · Mar 29, 2014

Anybody move the front/center shock lower mount/shaft forward? Thus using all of the limiter straps when in the longest position.

xfiredude · Mar 29, 2014

After a closer look that is what y'all are talking about. I try to think and nothing happens.

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My proposed rear skid setup ?!?

Insaneboltrounder/sjohns

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live2beel

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Insaneboltrounder/sjohns

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Arctic Thunder

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Insaneboltrounder/sjohns

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av8er

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XFIRE800

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Insaneboltrounder/sjohns

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Ill Named

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rockymtnboy

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Suzzy-Q

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geo

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Ill Named

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xfiredude

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