Needed help with Nytro build

tbro47 · Oct 12, 2010

My new Van Amburg tunnel should be done in a week and i'm getting my old tunnel and skid out of the way. Whats the best way to get the old tunnel off? should i grind down the rivets then pounch them out or drill them out a little and then punch them out? I'll keep everyone posted on my build and add pics as I go. I plan on the new tunnel with a dual heat exchanger under the tunnel and getting rid of my stock exhcanger in the front of the tunnel. (I punched a hole in it some how on the last ride of the year). timbersled rear skid, unsure what track to get, barkbuster front end with fox airs. CR steering relocator, bars risers unsure wich ones to get, modrod vent kits, SKinz seat, and hopefully boost it next year. anyone have any input i'd appreciate it.

M5- · Oct 12, 2010

Use a 3/16" cobalt drill bit and drill the rivets out till the heads come off then use a small punch to drive out the rest or sometimes you need to pull the rest out from the back using a set of wire cutters. A grinder makes a huge mess of your sled, don't use it at all. Don't turn the drill too fast and that'll help keep the rivet from spinning. If the rivet does spin just hold it from the backside with some small vicegrips.

M5

skidoomutt · Oct 12, 2010

Take a small punch and punch the center of the rivet out first, the part that pulls the rivet, this allows you to drill in the center of each rivet, and also drills a lot easier the heads are softer then the the puller. The punch you use should fit in the center hole and go all the way through after you knock the center out. I drilled my rivets out with a 3/16 bit just to the depth of the head put a punch in and pried the head off, it should just pop rite off. If you do have to punch the rivets out, on the thinner sections of the tunnel use something heavier to back them with, so the tunnel doesn't absorb all the force also avoids damaging anything you might reuse. good luck they are a very simple install

tbro47 · Oct 14, 2010

thanks guys i'll be starting this today. I bit the bullet and cahnged my order to get a 162" CE. since they don't make the 156" anymore it just made more sense. hopefully it will be as fun as the 153" was and won't trench as much

M5- · Oct 14, 2010

Compared to that POS 153 it'll kill it, it'll be a whole different sled.

M5

Monster Max · Oct 14, 2010

Don't bother drilling rivets. I have done quite a few tunnels and extensions and what works the best is a air chisel. Use the one with the notch in it and knock some of the thickness down with a file a making the notch a little deeper.

It pops them off so fast you will be very surprised. Use a 3/16 punch to knock the rest of the rivet out.

tbro47 · Oct 14, 2010

Are you using the chisel on the front or back of teh rivet?

tbro47 · Oct 14, 2010

Got started today. The ground work is done. will finish taking the tunnel off saturday. i have a stock skid, tunnel, and track with 300 miles on them if anyone wants make an offer. the tunnel was slightly bent i bent it back as best i could and stills work like a stock tunnel. POS. also found what may have put the hole in my tunnel exchanger i'm missing a limiter strap looks like it frayed right off. the other strap is also frayed. they were sucked all the way up anyone know what might have caused that? i'll post picks of the nice hole it left in the exchanger on saturday.

Monster Max · Oct 15, 2010

The front of the chisel

tbro47 · Oct 25, 2010

Got the track and tunnel off

I've removed the track and tunnel now just waiting for my van amburg tunnel to get finished and new CE 162 track. going to put on the LCC roll over valve, steering post relocator, and a stiffener plate in the front end next. heres a great post on track removal with pics and i took some also that are a little clearer. think i'm going to stick with the stock drivers for now. here is a great link to help with gear and track changes. http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=47824&start=0&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=

Thistledoo · Oct 25, 2010

While you have the driveshaft out put the avids on....you will thank your self later when its deep and sunny!!

tbro47 · Oct 25, 2010

more pics

got the drivers pulled out they look good, took the tunnel off was way easier than expected just used a 3/16 drill bit and drilled them out a little and then took an air chisel to the back of the rivets inside the tunnel and blasted them off. had to tap a few out that a little ways but really easy to do. there is a pic of the hole in my bulk head heat exchanger, i tried to JB weld it to keep riding but it wouldn't hold. crappy way to end the year. i'm going to remove it today since my new tunnel has a double bypass under tunnel exchanger.

tbro47 · Oct 25, 2010

i want to change the gearing on my sled while it's taken apart. i found a thread somewhere but can't find it again. i have a 09 MTX and i'm going to a 162" track and i think i recall it's a 19/40 gearing and i that a 18/40 would be better for a 162? anyone know?

Thistledoo · Oct 25, 2010

19/40 change to avids

tbro47 · Oct 25, 2010

so is the stock 09 MTX come with a 20, 19, or 18? i'm not boosted yet either so i think changing it will help pull a little better i'm not worried aobut top end speed really.

Mountaintech · Oct 25, 2010

tbro47 said:
so is the stock 09 MTX come with a 20, 19, or 18? i'm not boosted yet either so i think changing it will help pull a little better i'm not worried aobut top end speed really.

Your sled has 20/40 gearing. Yamaha went to 18/40 in 2010 for the SEs but the regular 2010 MTX still got 20/40. Go figure! A good ratio for mountain sleds generally speaking is at least 2.2:1. Some people think an 18t is too small up top as far as strain on the teeth is concerned. 19/40 is definitely a step in the right direction, and yes your 68L chain will work. If youi have everything apart right now I would do Avids as well.

tbro47 · Oct 27, 2010

thanks that's exactly what i was looking for. Do you need a press or any special tools to put the avid drivers on?

tbro47 · Oct 27, 2010

Also i'm getting rid of my front radiator should i get 7 or 8 tooth drivers?

justinkredible56 · Oct 27, 2010

tbro47 said:
thanks that's exactly what i was looking for. Do you need a press or any special tools to put the avid drivers on?

Yes, you will need a press. If you plan on doing it yourself make sure you get them EXACTLY where the other ones were. Last time I swapped drivers I had a shop do it for me and they didn't even charge me.

tbro47 said:
Also i'm getting rid of my front radiator should i get 7 or 8 tooth drivers?

Looks like you went with a 162" challenger extreme...the Extreme only comes in a 2.5" paddle so your ONLY option is to go with the 7 tooth drivers. 8 tooth won't fit unless you delete the front tunnel cooler. If that's what you were referring to when you said front radiator then either one will fit but I would still run the 7tooth.

Mountaintech · Oct 27, 2010

Go with the 7t 3" pitch Avids. I built a jig out of wood where the original driveshaft and driver assy could lay in and then I marked on the jig the spots where the centerline of the Avid drivers had to be. Pressed the old drivers off with a press and the new drivers on. Used my jig to get everything bang on.

Needed help with Nytro build

Member

Member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Similar threads