MC transformation begins!

Chewy22 · Aug 30, 2016

tbpatten33 said:
Chewy did you use a punch?

I used metal hole saw blades. Didn't have a 2 3/16", not even sure they make them, used a 2" then filed out the rest. It was a little rough. I used the template as a guide (no drill bit in the hole saw). At the start, I ran the drill in reverse to make some guidelines and it doesn't bite much. Used a smaller cordless drill so it didn't bite as hard when switching to forward.

I wasn't sure how else to do it and I had the hole saw blades so ran with it.

Teth-Air · Aug 31, 2016

would this work?

olymon · Aug 31, 2016

Clamp a 4 x 4 of hard wood to the running board and use a normal hole saw. The board will give you a good centering point for the hole saw.

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Chewy22 · Aug 31, 2016

Might be a little tough with the existing holes. Would have to hold the drill pretty steady when one blade was in the open space.

Cool looking tool though. Would be great for those off size holes.

boondocker97 · Aug 31, 2016

Teth-Air said:
would this work?

I've never seen one of those before. Interesting for sure

Working from the inside of the tunnel I think I'd measure across the new hole both ways and mark center. Then take a hammer and center punch and hit the center mark good. That will hold the pilot bit on the closest size hole saw. If the center mark isn't on metal then the wood block on the outside of the tunnel would work to hold the pilot bit as olymon suggested. A jig saw with a metal blade for rough cutting would work too. Clean everything up to final dimensions with an air or electric dremel tool.

KMOD · Aug 31, 2016

boondocker97 said:
I've never seen one of those before. Interesting for sure

Working from the inside of the tunnel I think I'd measure across the new hole both ways and mark center. Then take a hammer and center punch and hit the center mark good. That will hold the pilot bit on the closest size hole saw. If the center mark isn't on metal then the wood block on the outside of the tunnel would work to hold the pilot bit as olymon suggested. A jig saw with a metal blade for rough cutting would work too. Clean everything up to final dimensions with an air or electric dremel tool.

Yes,

Once the inside template is in then just saw at opposite angles with a jig saw or reciprocating saw to get 80% of the hole cut out then finish with a die grinder with round carbide bit, it will go quite fast and the stainless template will keep the bit from over doing it. Many ways to do it, mine went pretty quick this way.
As you can see after cutting out the outside of the tunnel I flattened it out with a dolly and then installed back in the hole to keep the brake unit flush with the tunnel. I riveted it in then cut out the large holes.
Kevin

summ8rmk · Aug 31, 2016

Why not plasma torch?
Would take less than 10 seconds for both holes.

GS6

Chewy22 · Sep 4, 2016

Chain case side done. Had fun, but glad I only have to do that once!

madmax · Sep 4, 2016

summ8rmk said:
Why not plasma torch?
Would take less than 10 seconds for both holes.

GS6

Plasma torch works really good for cutting the boards off. Should be equally as good for cutting the tunnel for the D&R.

Motorbreath_ · Sep 5, 2016

Chewy22 said:
Chain case side done. Had fun, but glad I only have to do that once!

How concerned should one be of having the bearings there like that without any oil?

Chewy22 · Sep 5, 2016

Motorbreath_ said:
How concerned should one be of having the bearings there like that without any oil?

Top bearing will be replaced with a sealed bearing that comes in the TKI kits. The bottom bearing will be covered with a seal that comes with the TKI kit. As they sit in the photo, both are loaded with grease.

Chewy22 · Sep 5, 2016

On my 16 (MC setup) with no shocks mounted, the front of the skid pretty compressed and the rear hanging completely free the very tip of the rails hits the drivers; not a lot. See photo. When you put the slightest pressure on the rear it clears all day long. I'm not sure how far the skid can compress with the shocks on or if it's even possible to compress the front (with shocks) and the rear hang all the way down? I'll probably grind off some of the plastic on the rail tip. With the new approach angle I don't think the track will ever hit the area ground off.

Chewy22 · Sep 5, 2016

Can someone with a MC do me a huge favor and take a close-up picture of your rail tip. It looks like the plastic on the MC's are not as thick as the plastic on the 16s. If that is the case I may just order MC rail tips. Thank you so much!!!!!

summ8rmk · Sep 5, 2016

Not the best angle.

GS6

summ8rmk · Sep 5, 2016

GS6

Chewy22 · Sep 5, 2016

Does it looks a little more squared off at the tip compared to the 16?

CO 2.0 · Sep 5, 2016

Dont even have plastic rail tips on my ice age rails and 3" pc on my axys. Ice age just has you run anti stabs and thats it. Are your drivers hitting the 16 rail tips when fully collapsed?

Chewy22 · Sep 5, 2016

CO 2.0 said:
Dont even have plastic rail tips on my ice age rails and 3" pc on my axys. Ice age just has you run anti stabs and thats it. Are your drivers hitting the 16 rail tips when fully collapsed?

No just when the front is pushed up. When you start compressing the rear it pulls the tips way from the drivers.

KMMAC · Sep 5, 2016

My concern would be, that one little downed tree that is just under the snow and you happened to be gassing on it. Could the 16 rail tips be trimmed and put the 17 caps on?

yamahajohnson220 · Sep 5, 2016

KMMAC said:
My concern would be, that one little downed tree that is just under the snow and you happened to be gassing on it. Could the 16 rail tips be trimmed and put the 17 caps on?

I agree. On my yammi's I've had to cut some of the rail tip off and re-rivet the cap back on to clear drivers. It's amazing how much the skid moves forward when you think its moving back in motion.

MC transformation begins!

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