The panels can be sucked in a bit when you do narrower boards. Burandt boards get it the narrowest, but if you can still find a set of Rasmussen style Airframes is what I and other like CO2.0 have done. Gets you a touch over 2" narrower in total.
I have also tried 3 different post set-ups at this point, the standard adjustable, the HCR fixed post and the standard cat post with 3" C3 post forward kit. The best has been the post forward kit, just allows me to get out over the front end of the sled, keeps the track in the snow more (instead of a wheely monster, while fun to ride, just makes a mess of technical riding situations) to do work and also allows me to get more leverage in off balance situations and when trying to get the sled on edge when the downhill ski is away from me.
I've only run the BDX intake, but with a headlight delete, its probably the best bang for the buck in terms of weight loss, 10-12 lbs for 400 is SUPER cheap. It is much louder from the intake noise, and you've got to be careful in the tight trees with the frog-skins, but overall a solid package.
We are still waiting on someone to create a side-panel kit that doesn't extend out into the snow and hold the snow at the upper lip like the stock panels do. Sucking the side-panels and bottom panel work with narrower boards can create some fitment issues with side panels, just something to dry-fit and be aware of. With just a few simple mods, the sled is SUPER strong and I have no issues at all riding any technical situation that any pro i've ridden or ride with does. Only advantage the pro carries is getting up out of the snow in my opinion over my cat. Weight is VERY similar and in my opinion that is the largest factor in performance as the "underpowered" pro has proven in the past 4 years. I would start small and make small changes as suggested above, I find that off season changes are REALLY difficult to quantify, as I just can't compare from riding 6 months before. Best of luck!
