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Clutching for SLP Single

knh208

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Oct 5, 2009
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Saskatoon, SK, CANADA
I recently installed an SLP Single Pipe Kit as well as a Powerclaw 2.6 track.

To increase WOT RPM, should I reduce weight or tighten the secondary spring?

Should weights be used to control RPM and the secondary spring tension to control upshift/backshift?

Prior to these changes, I was thrilled with my flat land clutching. I have Dalton adjustables fully loaded to 75g along with a D&D orange spring (170/305) in the primary. I have a 48/44/40 helix with a D&D purple spring (83/140) and D&D torsion conversion kit in the secondary. Also have rock rollers. I had it dialed in to run 7600 RPM, and it ripped.

I went for a test run last night. With the same clutching, I was seeing 7800 RPM. I knew I had two choices to increase my peak RPM, either reduce weight or tighten the secondary spring. It was easy to change the secondary with the tools I had at that moment, so I tightened it two holes. That change has me running 8060 RPM. The sled pulls hard. Lifts the skis way higher than ever before.

I was testing at night, and it was snowing. I was riding in an unfamiliar area, and it was a bit scary. WOT resulted in one of two things, either pointing at the stars, or going way too fast on a short trail. It was quite difficult to tell how well it was working.

Let me know what you think I should do. I can certainly pull a couple grams of weight and sit it back, but I'd like to hear what the experts have to say.

Am I limiting upshift by tightening the secondary? Backshift has always been good.
 
Last edited:

knh208

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Saskatoon, SK, CANADA
Well, I made it run at the correct RPM. I'm not sure that means I've figured it out.

Perhaps the thing to do is try it! I'll put the secondary back where it was and pull a couple grams out of the weights. See what happens. Worst case scenario, I waste 20 minutes tinkering. Best case, it rips harder!
 

WyoBoy1000

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Nov 27, 2007
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I loosen the secondary until it wont hold a steady rpm, then I tighten it back just to where the it will hold rpm. Then based on rpm I either change spring or weights in primary. depending on how you like to weight the weights (light tip or heavy) and then the spring to match it.
 

Frostbite

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Yup, depending on the total force number of your primary spring the easiest thing to do is to put a higher total force than you have in the primary.

You can uses "spring shims" to effectively make your primary spring longer, thus giving it more total force and you more RPMs on top. The flip side is, your engagement RPM will bump up slightly as well.

If you have the Dalton's, you could pull a little weight off the tips of each weight. That's really even easier than the spring, now that I think about it.

Adjust your Shift RPM with the primary. the secondary is really for tweaking RPMs in small amounts for snow conditions.
 
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