m8 m1000 clutch alignment????

blindman · Mar 14, 2008

offset easy with the washers...

how do you set the primary...or secondary in parralell...or preferebly the primarary tiltled slightly to starboard when no load.

searched lots of posts .....lots of.." align" "set it to specs"

but no actual info on how to do it,,

BlazinBya · Mar 15, 2008

Most have resorted to either maching the little room thats left on the secondary or shimming out the motor mounts with washers,also watch out for improperly made alignment tools,I know there was bad batch floating around with the incorrect offset,maybe someone can post the correct part number for the most current offset/alignment tool?

blindman · Mar 15, 2008

thanks blazin for replyin

have allready macined the back of secondary.

but my question is how to tilt motor back on mag side or forward on pto side to get clutches in parrallel.

anyone done this??

akholland · Jan 9, 2011

How much can you safely take off the back of the secondary? And your just taking material off the steel shaft where it touches the dd offset washers right?

Everest_man · Jan 8, 2013

What?! Ok I used the alignment tool on my clutches and when I look down the belt from the front they look perfectly lined up.

I had to shim the secondary out about 3/16-7/32 inch before the alignment tool touched both points on the secondary.

I have 4 thick washers behind the secondary. Haven't drive it yet.

Why do you machine off the secondary when you NEED to shim it out?!

redwolf_92 · Jan 8, 2013

I am in the same boat with my 08 m1000. When I set the alignment using the 1.507 offset of the newer sleds I still have two thick and two thin shims behind the secondary. I have checked al the motor mounts and don't see anything out of place. I also have a the front mag side tourque stop and a rear mag side mount installed.

johnyrocket · Jan 10, 2013

When using the 1.507 offset you should be 1 to 1.5 mm off the the fixed shive ( the one next to the motor) and the mtor should twist 1 to 1.5mm at the front of the primery clutch to the right of the sled. This is what the manual has in in it. I have seen it posted on here and I have a copy i could post if needed.

On my 07 m1000 I had to move the motor over and notch the brace by the head to get 1.507 with the .60in off of the fixed shim. I added to extra motor mounts and a torq stop so I set my parallesism to .70mm.

I bought a complete manual on line for 8 bucks, it was the best 8$ spent on my sled.

Polarisrocks · Jan 11, 2013

With the 1.507 alignment tool, this tool sits against the secondary fixed sheeth (the outer side) and sits down inside the primary against the fixed (inner ) sheeth. I want to figure out if this tool is even the right offset.

The belt needs to be touching the inner sheeth on the primary and the secondary needs to be 30 thousands in from perfectly straight... The 30 thou inwards on the secondary it to accomidate for the deflection/slop in the belt as the primary 1st begins to close.. once this happens the belt is now straight..

There is no way to tell what leed or (how far the motor is ahead on the pto side) with this tool.. there is not much adjustment other than the rubber between the diamond drive and the pto side motor plate.. I put a modified polaris clutch tool that sits on the fixed primary sheet and shows how much the motor is ahead on the pto side.. I am not sure why some guys are out a bunch of shims and other have to machine to get to the 1.507 spec.. I was told the m8 clutches seem to already have the machining done from the factory.. So it you buy a new clutch it seems to fit better.. When shimming the motor out you have to watch 2 things, pto head bolt hitting the bulkhead and mag lower spark plug hitting the steering post..

I am sure dissapointed it cats mounts and their clutches..

Jim

Hardass · Jan 11, 2013

To figure out the lead on the pto side you can use the polaris team tool which hooks on the back sheeve of the primary and comes down in front of the out er secondary and take a measurement.You can leave the bolt out of the dd in the center of the secondary and slide it over to the bar then use a feeler guage to measure.This should show you the lead angle your looking for.If your lead angle is not correct for what you want you can press the motor mounts in or out to the desired angle. Now this will take a bit but should be able to give you what your looking for. you need to be thinking about all the mounts when doing this also you can tip the mounts in the mounting plate as needed. your motor and clutch will follow those mounts. also the 10/11 secondarys already are machined for the 1.507 tool the others are not.

Polarisrocks · Jan 20, 2013

So after doing a little test and measuring my clutch components and belts there is some error in the 1.507 being the correct alignement tool. The belt measures 1.400 at the widest point.. and the outer sheeth at the outer edge of the secondary measures .270 and if you do the math and mark the primary on the inner sheeth where the widest point touches its about .074 deeper than where the tool sits.. if you do the math the 1.507 tool makes the secondary sit .089 thou in past a true straight alignment. if you add:
belt 1.400
clutch .270
belt @ bottum -.074
1.596

Now if we consider the belt climbs up the primary fast at engagement because of the deflection slop. Most think that the belt moves in about .030 at that initial shift and then the belt is straight. So if thats the case i think the tool should be 1.566

Anybody have any thoughts?

Also how much consideration should be take per extra motor mount or torque stop??

MT Backcountry · Jan 21, 2013

Washers

Ok so Ill let you know about my m1000 alignment. I installed a new bullit this year and when reinstalling it I screwed up and put the 3 washers on the wrong side of the motor mount behind the Primary clutch( they are supposed to be on the frame side of the mount to space it away from the frame). Reason I am bringing this up I toasted a belt (It was an old belt though) in 50 miles. Fixed the washers and no more belt problems. So just might want to look at the 3 studs behind the Primary clutch and see if there are washers on the mount side. It may not help but I thought you would want to check as this moves the motor some.

Polarisrocks · Jan 21, 2013

I do have washers under the mounts moving the motor out.. 90 thou.. I had to do this because i have a 4 post clutch that sits farther on the crank for some reason.. this has nothing to do with the alignement tool not being correct. I have looked at 4 cat clutches and all 4 are a little different at the bottum where the tool sits.. they also have a circular groove from the belt cord.. all 4.. So are these clutches toast? Can they be machined smooth again? go postal on arctic cat..

spoon · Feb 15, 2013

4 post Clutch differences

Found out some differences on the Cat 4 tower primarys when changing out a clutch. Had an 07 1100 4 stroke clutch (4 tower) on my sled and was having an issue lately with the weight pins (need new ones) and I had a brand new fully setup clutch for M1000 (again 4 tower) to swap with. Offset was very different. To fix Polarisrocks problem if he used an 1100 clutch, motor would not have to be shimmed over. Took 2 thick and 2 thin washers out of my initial setup to put M1000 clutch in. This is on a turbo M1. 1100 clutch is aprox 3/16 of an inch positive offset more than M1 clutch.

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m8 m1000 clutch alignment????

blindman

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BlazinBya

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blindman

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akholland

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Everest_man

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redwolf_92

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johnyrocket

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Polarisrocks

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Hardass

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Polarisrocks

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MT Backcountry

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spoon

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