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The hood is complete

Chewy22

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Oct 17, 2009
1,993
1,369
113
Montana
Yes, thank you!! Very helpful.

One quick question. Do the bat wings, what your knees hit, attach the same?
 

Chewy22

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Oct 17, 2009
1,993
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113
Montana
The tank covers/panels right in front of your knees when sitting on the sled. The top part slided into the hood. On both side you need to pull out to get to the secondary or fill the oil tank. Not sure how else to describe them. Factory warn stickers are on it. I ask because my clutch side is wore out on the facotry hood and it's a pain to get the side panel on.
 
E
Nov 28, 2007
606
84
28
Spokane WA
The "bat wing" has 2 screws next to steering post and the 2 speed nuts that hold it to the sled. The hood just over laps that piece. When I get my sled back together again I will get pics of it. Hopefully that helps
 

jbusch

Well-known member
Premium Member
Feb 10, 2009
734
172
43
Just got my hood, I'll let everyone know how the install goes. Mountain fit has been great so far.
 

richardderkevorkian

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Feb 7, 2010
634
356
63
Soldotna AK
Just got my hood, I'll let everyone know how the install goes. Mountain fit has been great so far.

I would never put pop rivets with the ball inside my airbox like the video recommends. Silicone or not its only a matter of time before one of those go into your motor.
 

jbusch

Well-known member
Premium Member
Feb 10, 2009
734
172
43
I'm going to run some aluminum tape over all the rivets which should add some safety.
 
M
May 12, 2012
3
3
3
Finland
I have been trying to buy this hood from end of July trough Mountain Fit but nothing is happening?
This is very strange way to do business...

EDIT: Finally the hood is moving to Finland
 
Last edited:

jbusch

Well-known member
Premium Member
Feb 10, 2009
734
172
43
Ok, so I am having some problems and would like to know what other peoples solutions are. I would like to reuse the key and the accessory outlet. So, here is the issue I ran into.

The key, accessory outlet, and air sensor are all located inside of the air shelf. Which makes all of them very difficult to get to if you ever needed to. In addition, finding a place to mount the air sensor is a little complicated. Also, the wiring has to run from inside of the air shelf to the outside of the shelf in order to plug into the gauge cluster. All of this would be solved if the key and accessory plug were not reused but I like having them. I use a tether but like to be able to just turn off the key instead of pulling the tether all of the time.

I am thinking of cutting a slit into the air shelf, then running the harness outside of the shelf, then plastic weld the shelf back together, and silicone around the holes where the wiring comes out of the shelf. The other option is to try and remake the shelf so that it can accommodate the wiring, key, and accessory plug. That option seems pretty complicated given the contours of the hood and the shelf.

Any thoughts on this?
 
G
Jan 18, 2012
460
89
28
34
Ok, so I am having some problems and would like to know what other peoples solutions are. I would like to reuse the key and the accessory outlet. So, here is the issue I ran into.

The key, accessory outlet, and air sensor are all located inside of the air shelf. Which makes all of them very difficult to get to if you ever needed to. In addition, finding a place to mount the air sensor is a little complicated. Also, the wiring has to run from inside of the air shelf to the outside of the shelf in order to plug into the gauge cluster. All of this would be solved if the key and accessory plug were not reused but I like having them. I use a tether but like to be able to just turn off the key instead of pulling the tether all of the time.

I am thinking of cutting a slit into the air shelf, then running the harness outside of the shelf, then plastic weld the shelf back together, and silicone around the holes where the wiring comes out of the shelf. The other option is to try and remake the shelf so that it can accommodate the wiring, key, and accessory plug. That option seems pretty complicated given the contours of the hood and the shelf.

Any thoughts on this?


#1 i think making a slit running the wires and re sealing even with a good amount of silicone is a much easier quicker and sounds satisfactory for the situation you speak of.

#2 if people really pull their teather all the time and dont run a key switch im assuming you have to replace your tether end alot. (if its rubber like mine and not a clip style)

#3 if you disconnect your air sensor doesnt it throw a code or something. doesnt that control your fuel air mix??
 

jbusch

Well-known member
Premium Member
Feb 10, 2009
734
172
43
#1 i think making a slit running the wires and re sealing even with a good amount of silicone is a much easier quicker and sounds satisfactory for the situation you speak of.

#2 if people really pull their teather all the time and dont run a key switch im assuming you have to replace your tether end alot. (if its rubber like mine and not a clip style)

#3 if you disconnect your air sensor doesnt it throw a code or something. doesnt that control your fuel air mix??

I have to run the air sensor so still thinking about that one. My thoughts are to extend the wires and reconnect at the front of the sled where the airbox enters the frame in front of the throttle bodies
 
E
Nov 28, 2007
606
84
28
Spokane WA
I have to run the air sensor so still thinking about that one. My thoughts are to extend the wires and reconnect at the front of the sled where the airbox enters the frame in front of the throttle bodies

I talked to a guy from slp at hay days and hey have a wire extension kit for the sensor. They said its best to run it at the front of the sled
 
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