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Engine Mounting Alignment

E
Feb 22, 2009
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Installing a new engine today and having some technical difficulties with alignment...

I have installed 4 new motor mounts. I also have a engine plate, when I mocked in the plate with the new mounts before installing the engine what had me worried was the way everything sat. In order to line up the rear bracket mount holes perfectly into the bulkhead I had to have the engine mounts loose on the plate/brackets. When brackets were down, their was a pretty decent sized gap between the rear rubber mounts and the brackets. Or reverse if I had them loose against the plate. Tightening everything in evenly in a sequence makes the gap's on the mounts pretty much go away but their is still a very small gap when everything is tight on the PTO side Bracket to Mount. It just doesn't seem right.

Also when you put the stock engine plates against the aftermarket plate the bend is slightly different? Less of a bend on the aftermarket plate on the rear. Front is identical. This also makes my original factory torque stopper sit a little low on the engine? When you look at from uptop their is a small gap at the top, and only the last 3rd of the stop is actually touching the engine, so it's not flush. Something just doesn't seem right...my center to center between the shafts is pretty much 11.5" everytime I measure it.

I then decided to see how my Pipe would fit as it seems the engine is sitting very low in the front. The pipe does not sit properly AT ALL, it is definatly LOW as it sits on the shock tower instead of the mount where it is supposed to sit on when mocked into position.

Any help with this would be greatly appreciated. Should I try inserting a few shims under the plate untop the front motor mounts to bring up the front?? Would this not make the back mount gap worse? Could it quite possibly be the engine plate itself not having the proper bend?

Thanks
Erik


__________________
02' Polaris RMK 800 MOD
Simmons Ski's, Boss Seat, SLP Single Pipe, "The Thing" Can, Diagatron, Upgraded Crank w Billet PTO -"Tough Boy" Bearings, Bored, Ported, Polished, V Force III Reeds, Torque Arm, Push Arm, SLP Intake, Avid Extended Chaincase, Avid Extroverts, 2.5"x 156" Camo Xtreme, 09' Dragon Skid w Walker Evans Shocks, Big Wheel Kit, Offset Axel, WillWood Caliber, TEAM Tied Driven Secondary, Holtzman ATACC
 

Kraven

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Apr 11, 2009
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Installing a new engine today and having some technical difficulties with alignment...

I have installed 4 new motor mounts. I also have a engine plate, when I mocked in the plate with the new mounts before installing the engine what had me worried was the way everything sat. In order to line up the rear bracket mount holes perfectly into the bulkhead I had to have the engine mounts loose on the plate/brackets. When brackets were down, their was a pretty decent sized gap between the rear rubber mounts and the brackets. Or reverse if I had them loose against the plate. Tightening everything in evenly in a sequence makes the gap's on the mounts pretty much go away but their is still a very small gap when everything is tight on the PTO side Bracket to Mount. It just doesn't seem right.

Also when you put the stock engine plates against the aftermarket plate the bend is slightly different? Less of a bend on the aftermarket plate on the rear. Front is identical. This also makes my original factory torque stopper sit a little low on the engine? When you look at from uptop their is a small gap at the top, and only the last 3rd of the stop is actually touching the engine, so it's not flush. Something just doesn't seem right...my center to center between the shafts is pretty much 11.5" everytime I measure it.

I then decided to see how my Pipe would fit as it seems the engine is sitting very low in the front. The pipe does not sit properly AT ALL, it is definatly LOW as it sits on the shock tower instead of the mount where it is supposed to sit on when mocked into position.

Any help with this would be greatly appreciated. Should I try inserting a few shims under the plate untop the front motor mounts to bring up the front?? Would this not make the back mount gap worse? Could it quite possibly be the engine plate itself not having the proper bend?

Thanks
Erik



__________________
02' Polaris RMK 800 MOD
Simmons Ski's, Boss Seat, SLP Single Pipe, "The Thing" Can, Diagatron, Upgraded Crank w Billet PTO -"Tough Boy" Bearings, Bored, Ported, Polished, V Force III Reeds, Torque Arm, Push Arm, SLP Intake, Avid Extended Chaincase, Avid Extroverts, 2.5"x 156" Camo Xtreme, 09' Dragon Skid w Walker Evans Shocks, Big Wheel Kit, Offset Axel, WillWood Caliber, TEAM Tied Driven Secondary, Holtzman ATACC

You've got mail
 

Kraven

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Here is some pics of what I'm talking about

First of all I've never used that plate.

However the engine sits higher in the rear with the FASTRAX plate than with the stock brackets, more of a bend will cure that.

That can be seen by the angle of the snubber head to the engine case, not to mention the contact point does not align any more.(as you pointed out)

I would check with Curt at Fastrax, maybe it had to be this way to clear the steering linkage with the one-piece plate is the only explanation I can come up with for now.

BTW, how close is the steering linkage to the bottom side of the engine plate?

Can/will the pipe work at all, or is it a fabricate/cut situation?

If not, can you have a metal fab shop bend that rear angle bend a bit more? as long as it clears the steering?
 
Last edited:
E
Feb 22, 2009
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I just cross referenced the part #'s and the Rear mounts (square mounts) are polaris part #3021206 or SPX Part # 754-102 so they match up as being the right part #'s

***As for the front's as in the front of the sled (round mounts) the ones I was shipped was polaris part #3021220*** HAHAHAHA

So I did some more reasearching and on the 02' the correct Part # I need is #3021290 on BOTH SIDES

This is where is gets interesting...The 03' and 04' models call for two different motor mounts on the polaris industries parts page?? http://parts.polarisind.com/Assemblies.asp

How many of you guys with crank issues are aware of running two differnt motor mounts on your edge/escape sleds from 03-05???? It calls for #220 on the PTO Side and a #290 on the MAG side. Hmmmmmm how interesting

Can anyone tell me the difference in part # 220 and 290? Perhaps its just a longer stud???? What am I missing here?
 
E
Feb 22, 2009
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Tons of room under the plate for a little more "Kick" I can fit at least two fingers under her if not three, it sits up super high so that should not be an issue. Didn't want to alter the plate just yet though untel I rule everything else out. I'll give Curt a call and see what he says.
 
E
Feb 22, 2009
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looks like you have the right mounts:face-icon-small-con

Yah? Can you tell me the difference between the two different part #'s then? I think it must just be the bolt length? I had to trim my front mounts bolts in order for them to screw down all the way. They seemed to be the same mounts when I changed them other than bolt length. I wasn't worried at the time but now you got me thinking?
 
S
Feb 25, 2008
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Craig CO
Think its a bolt length issue too. SLP sells harder durometer mounts for edges and they don't have different ones for different year edges. Which makes me think length. Also 04 and newer bulkheads have access plug in the bottom to get to the mount nut so the thread might have to be a little longer for this.
 
E
Feb 22, 2009
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Think its a bolt length issue too. SLP sells harder durometer mounts for edges and they don't have different ones for different year edges. Which makes me think length. Also 04 and newer bulkheads have access plug in the bottom to get to the mount nut so the thread might have to be a little longer for this.

The front mounts that I have are the harder 90 durometer mounts. I'm still leaning towards the "kick" on the plate...after I mocked it into position and it never fit properly I tried the OEM plates and they sat in perfect with the new front mounts and the old rear mounts so lets go ahead and rule the motor mounts out of the picture.
 
E
Feb 22, 2009
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First of all I've never used that plate.

"However the engine sits higher in the rear with the FASTRAX plate than with the stock brackets, more of a bend will cure that."

I think so too, not to mention when you put the stock plate up along side the new plate it is out considerably. I wish I had a pic of that to show. First thing I thought of when comparing the two was that it wasn't kicked up high enough in the back.

"Can/will the pipe work at all, or is it a fabricate/cut situation?"

I'm sure it would work without having to cut/fab but I was worried it may leak as it wouldn't be sitting properly and perhaps melt my shock tower plastic as it would be sitting on the plastic not the rubber mount.

Main concern here is its just plain and simple the engine is not mounted properly and will this cause crank failure in the future? I'm trying to take every percaution possible not to go through another crank this year so I decided to go with the plate and push arms and new mounts etc...
 

Kraven

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Apr 11, 2009
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First of all I've never used that plate.

"However the engine sits higher in the rear with the FASTRAX plate than with the stock brackets, more of a bend will cure that."

I think so too, not to mention when you put the stock plate up along side the new plate it is out considerably. I wish I had a pic of that to show. First thing I thought of when comparing the two was that it wasn't kicked up high enough in the back.

"Can/will the pipe work at all, or is it a fabricate/cut situation?"

I'm sure it would work without having to cut/fab but I was worried it may leak as it wouldn't be sitting properly and perhaps melt my shock tower plastic as it would be sitting on the plastic not the rubber mount.

Main concern here is its just plain and simple the engine is not mounted properly and will this cause crank failure in the future? I'm trying to take every percaution possible not to go through another crank this year so I decided to go with the plate and push arms and new mounts etc...

It is definitely frustrating when you go beyond what's necessary and spend the extra $$$$$ to get the better parts, and ended up having headaches.

Been there, too many times.

It's starting to look more like not enough bend, perhaps Kurt can just swap them out.

Or, can you make a quick paper/cardboard template of the rear bend angle (side view) on your FAST TRAX plate and fax or e-mail to Kurt and have him match up with another one.

Just hate to have to see you wait a few days for another part that may be identical to what you currently have.
 
I sure hope this motor plate problem is too contagious. I have had a SLP plate on order for over a month, guess they are out. Got kind of worried cause the motor is out and we are leaving to head west the second week in December so I ordered a plate from Fastrax to. Probably get them both at the same time. Keep us all posted on what you end up doing. Thanks
 
E
Feb 22, 2009
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I hear yah, I couldn't get an SLP one either so I got Curt to build me one, just waiting to hear back from Curt before I do anything further. I'm sure he will know right away what to do. I will keep you posted.
 
E
Feb 22, 2009
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Talked to Fastrax the other day...Had to Pull the engine back out, took the plate to my local machine shop. Plate was out .32 Thou from what is should have been. Should have it back in this weekend. Hopefully nobody else runs into this same issue.
 

Kraven

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Apr 11, 2009
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Talked to Fastrax the other day...Had to Pull the engine back out, took the plate to my local machine shop. Plate was out .32 Thou from what is should have been. Should have it back in this weekend. Hopefully nobody else runs into this same issue.

When you say it was "out by 5/16"

Just so I understand, What exactly do you mean?
 
E
Feb 22, 2009
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When you say it was "out by 5/16"

Just so I understand, What exactly do you mean?

The "Kick" on the plate...it was supposed to be the same angle/"kick" as the factory plates and it was just a bit more than 5/16" out as in not bent enough. The rear "kick" was out on the plate, the front "kick" was bang on.

easy fix, just glad I caught it during the install.
 
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