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Ok cool thanks for the heads up. I gotta get my bog or detonation issue or whatever it is hammered out before I start modding anything else but I definitely think I'll like it being geared a bit lower.
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Yes the whole battery and the Tray has to come out so you can pull the lower gear completely off of the lower shaft - The zip-tie method works- and replace rear lower bolt at a min....
FWIW- I have a new set of 15 pro pulleys and belt - Replaced with TKI kit when new....
What is the zip tie method? And why replace the lower bolt?
Do you remember what size and length the bolt is?
You wrap a zip tie around the belt just below the top gear to help keep the belt in the proper shape so the gears slides on easier.
The bolt is a one and done item according to Polaris. Also there are stronger bolts that can be used. I haven't heard of a axys bolt failing like a pro rmk lower bolt.
This thread really has me thinking about doing this. I ride in deep pow 90 percent of the time so gearing down could help out a lot. So stock belt, Pro ride gears... did anyone have to re-weight their clutching?
I went to a 62/42 helix that carls sells
Straight 40
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No tensioner, carls cycle in boise idaho.Who is "Carl" please? for the 62/42?
Do you have to run the TKI tensioner with this setup?
No tensioner, carls cycle in boise idaho.
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Stock weights and springs?
Is this setup good for 1000-4000 ft?
Thanks for your help!
Carl's clutch setups work great for that elevation my group runs there clutching from 0-4000 in Alaska.
If one changes to the Pro Drive pulleys, are clutching changes (weights, springs, helix) really needed? Or can you just swap out pulleys?
Stock springs. I run 68g belly busters 6-7500ftStock weights and springs?
Is this setup good for 1000-4000 ft?
Thanks for your help!