DC Power on a PRO

Capacitor goes on the DC side of the converter (or rectifier for those using a rectifier) ...between the (+) & (-) outputs.

If you are using a common bridge rectifier...just sub the AC in and the DC out wires of the Koso unit for those.

I recommend a MAX draw from this "ACC PWR" to be 20 amps. Which is AC power directly from the Lighting/charging coil in the stator...

Note: Do NOT confuse this with the plug marked "ACC PWR" in the hood next to the gauge/headlight connector.

And again.. DO NOT turn off or delete your headlights... or use low draw HID or LED lights, with this setup, or you WILL damage your factory voltage regulator.



BRIDGE RECTIFIER CLICK HERE

Insert in place of KOSO unit if desired.
I prefer to solder on the wires to the bridge rectifier for a good connection and cover with heat shrink tube.
You should be able to safely draw a max of 15 amps from this supply.






NOTE: This applies if you do NOT have an electric start with a battery..
If you have ES with Battery... connect your auxiliary loads, with fuses of course, to the battery using a relay that will turn off power when the sled is shut off.



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simplified?

So after reading a few different methods of providing stable power on the pros to run accessories, I'm feeling a little confused. I don't have an e-start model on my 2015 pro, I want to run stock headlight and don't want to change that, I do want to power my turbo oil pump, run koso egt gauges, and afr/boost gauges. want the simplest. is the capacitor and no batt off the acc connection the best method?
can i pull all those things off the one capacitor connection?
thx electrical gurus!!!!

I am sure MH will have a much better and detailed answer but, with what I set up i could run 10 amps. I know (MH info) you shouldn't go more then 20 maps on that a/c acc plug by the clutch guard.
I would figure out what the maximum amps to be drawn then determine what rectifier(a.c./dc converter) will be needed. MH will clean up my novice thoughts. Hope it helps some.

This is a SAFE way to power your accessories on the sled.

It makes a "Plug N Play" install that does not alter your wiring harness and makes it easy to install accessories.

If you want to know that your oil pump is always getting power...Hook up a 12V led light to the pump power output from the fuse block.
Something like this
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HL9MXJE/
Or I'm sure Radio Shack or Auto parts stores like Oreilly or NAPA will have one.

Mount in your dashboard and you will always know if you have power to the pump.

NOTE: Many have asked about the AFR Gauges... and want to know why an AFR gauge is not a "low draw" accessory.
AFR gauges are NOT low amperage accessories because the sensor itself draws quite a bit of current to run the heater element.

MacDawg productions said:

... I want to run stock headlight and don't want to change that, I do want to power my turbo oil pump, run koso egt gauges, and afr/boost gauges. want the simplest.

Is the capacitor and no batt off the acc connection the best method?
YES, I believe in your situation, it is.

can i pull all those things off the one capacitor connection?
YES, Run fuses for each of those accessories in the proper size.

Click to expand...

Mating connector for "ACC PWR" at clutch guard bundle... TYCO #1-480305-0
Mouser #

Pins for connector (order a couple of extras)
TYCO # 60620-1
Mouser

Bridge Rectifier
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-Semiconductors/GBPC3506-E4-51/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtQ8nqTKtFS%2fMRt2%2f0z7BctjwDV6a42HMg%3d

Capacitor
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Cornell-Dubilier/CGS572U050R3C/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMukHu%252bjC5l7YUNjjiC3kA6Gg6i%2fOk%2fNHnE%3d

Nice fuse blocks (look around the site... they have lots of good wiring stuff... vinyl tube to protect wires, connectors etc)
http://www.cycleterminal.com/fuse-boxes.html

These are also a nice clean fuse block on Ebay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/291076954623

...

Click to expand...

So basically, the capacitor gives it the extra juice boost, and the rectifier keeps the 12volt supply more stable and in control? I can't seem to find on my gauges how much amp draw they use. I'm running digital glow shift afr and boost, also a koso dual egt. And my oil pump for my turbo too. No amp draw marking on it.
Also, if you can only draw 15-20 amp from this power distribution block(fused) in total, what fuses do you guys think would be good? just run (4) 5amp fuses?
This is getting interesting!!

The capacitor acts like a battery and keeps the voltage as stable as possible during low voltage periods or high voltage periods (i.e. at idle). The rectifier converts 12vac to 12vdc to power dc accessories. Some rectifiers or converters will have a small capacitor it them as well to further stabilize the voltage during the conversion.

As far as your gauges and oil pump. I would give the companies a call and they will be able to tell you the maximum amps. That will tell you what fuse to use. I would purchase a quad/4 bank fuse block and wire them individually. Then fuse each accessory appropriately.

MacDawg...

Like PAO said on all the items. ... the battery acts to stabilize the output from the rectifier.

On a pro... the built in regulator supplies 13-14 volts AC to the output... this powers the grip heaters and the headlights... you must take that AC and turn it into DC... a bridge rectifier does that... BUT... there are still voltage ripples that the capacitor helps to smooth out. This still relys on the factory voltage regulator (VR) to maintain a stable voltage.

Trust me... the Rectifier/Capacitor system above WITH FUSES... is as bare bones as you will want to go... and VERY affordable.

Also... for those that might ask about the charging wire for the battery from the VR... there seems no easy way to use this without a battery and relays in the system.


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Also...putting a bright 12v mini-LED indicator in the dash might be a good idea to let you know that the system is working and supplying your crucial pump with oil.



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mountainhorse said:

Also...putting a bright 12v mini-LED indicator in the dash might be a good idea to let you know that the system is working and supplying your crucial pump with oil.



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Click to expand...

i just read the led thing from a couple pages ago great idea!!

Bringing this thread back to the top with a question.

This is a bit off topic, but still seems to be the place to ask the question.

I have a 2000 Polaris Gen II 700 sled with the triple bulb headlight setup. (1 center "low" beam bulb and two outside "high" beam bulbs.)

I have a 2003 700 perk reverse motor installed in the sled with a grafted in 2003 wiring harness and all that goes with it. (I used 100% factory Polaris parts to do the swap and all the 2003 features work as they should on the 2000 sled.)

I am wanting to install LED replacement headlight bulbs on the sled. I already have the lights in hand.

High beam bulb ( H4 style) is rated at 45 watts and the low beam bulbs ( 886 style ) are rated @ 25 watts each.

From what I am understanding I "just" need to convert the sleds supplied AC voltage to DC voltage to power the lights. The factor VR should limit the power to 14.5 - 15 volts. ???????????

From talking to the light vendor his suggestion was to use [2] KOSO AC/DC converters ( 1 for the high beam circuit and 1 for the low beam circuit) in line with the headlight power wires. BUT, after looking at the specs for those converters they might not be rated high enough to handle the load??

KOSO states 6 watts max and I am thinking I need something in the 45 - 50 watts max range

From what I have read, I just need some sort of bridge rectifier to change the voltage from ac to dc. After doing a search for such things I am more confused than ever with the choices and styles out there.

I am by no means a electrical guru but I can solder the stuff together if I know what to get and where to get it at.

Any thoughts, comments or suggestions ??????

TTT

This is great info but to go a bit deeper. If I need more power can I remove my headlights and say put in a resistor that's about halfish the draw of the subtracted bulbs to run all these things we've been talking about
My headlight delete kit from mountain fit for their poly hood comes with a 100 w 2 ohm resistor. They also sold me 25 amp ac to DC rectifier for their single led headlight.
I'm figuring here I can run more off that rectifier if I resist less ahead of it?
http://www.mouser.com/Search/m_Prod...-2BfmzDF7CcGLwI6gTq563UzDaOnwSU-vQaAvRX8P8HAQ

What kind of math is needed here?

Like others I don't have much info on the components I've added as far as the amount of power the manufacturers suggest to run

After a bench test with my 12v mini jump pack I read with my multimeter


Gauge .1 amp
LED light .61 amp
AEM afr 1.71 at warm up and leveled out to 1.02+- 2 amp but their manual reads it runs from 1.3 to 2.7 peak amps I suppose if it's terrible cold out it draws more
Spal fan 1.94 operating 13.5 jammed

I'm going to put just my AFR back onto the red white accessory circuit to make my vipec happyas it is close to the 2 amp mark anyway.

Is this just a situation that needs to be metered while it's running? Like measureing the output of the stator and trying different resistors?

Started the sled and with my meter on the DC output wires the voltage starts out around 14 then gradually trickles down to zero? This test was done without any load so I hooked the wires up to see if my three circuits would power up and nothing?

Anyone alive anymore ?

I need help. Got a 2015 pro rmk 800.
I Dont have e-start but i got the e-start harness (and a small 12v battery)
My question is how i wire it so that when i turn the key to START position (like cranking the engine) i get relay to turn on my oil pump, gauges etc
OR can i wire it so (how?) that when I turn the key only to POWER ON same happens?

Sry for my bad english