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I usually run Amsoil 20W-50 in my bikes during the summer months. I found going to 10W-40 helped with cold starts last winter.
oil
- Thread starter yukondood
- Start date
3
Rotella T6 5w-40 and T-Triple 15w-40 are currently JASO MA certified (at least the Canadian version-I assume the US is the same). Therefore they are acceptable for wet clutch applications. For most of us, who change our oil after less than 10hrs use (often less than 5), these oils should be completely acceptable. I use the T6, particularly in the winter due to the lower cold viscosity, which allows quicker lubrication at start up.
As mentioned earlier, when using an oil which is not motorcycle specific, it's a good idea to check and make sure the formulation has not changed and the oil is still good for use. The oil companies (I work for one, not Shell) aren't going to tell you an oil is not longer ok for your bike.
http://www-static.shell.com/static/...ts_services/lubricants/rotella/rotella_t6.pdf
http://www-static.shell.com/static/...ricants/rotella/rotella_triple_protection.pdf
As mentioned earlier, when using an oil which is not motorcycle specific, it's a good idea to check and make sure the formulation has not changed and the oil is still good for use. The oil companies (I work for one, not Shell) aren't going to tell you an oil is not longer ok for your bike.
http://www-static.shell.com/static/...ts_services/lubricants/rotella/rotella_t6.pdf
http://www-static.shell.com/static/...ricants/rotella/rotella_triple_protection.pdf
S
diesel oil
A conoco rep told me the main purpose of newer diesel oils is to reduce the amount of ash going into the dpf, which clogs it. He recomended more frequent change intervals using newer oils in pre 06 motors without dpf's. Don't remember the chems it is lacking but moral of the story is its not as good as older api service oils. Should be fine in a dirt bike with needle bearings on every moving part,ie very durable, if your clutch likes it i cant see it mattering what oil you run.Seen an article in dirt rider about a suzuki going strong for 40 mins with no oil at all!
A conoco rep told me the main purpose of newer diesel oils is to reduce the amount of ash going into the dpf, which clogs it. He recomended more frequent change intervals using newer oils in pre 06 motors without dpf's. Don't remember the chems it is lacking but moral of the story is its not as good as older api service oils. Should be fine in a dirt bike with needle bearings on every moving part,ie very durable, if your clutch likes it i cant see it mattering what oil you run.Seen an article in dirt rider about a suzuki going strong for 40 mins with no oil at all!
ZDDP, Zinc, and Phosphorus are the eliminated chemicals.. Which I have specified, and frequent oil changes does NOT make oil which does not contain these chemical/minerals to function properly, ie: add protection.
Cam wear is the problem, not needle bearings.
DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES use a Group 5 automotive oil in a bike, regardless if it says rotella on it. The contents of a bottle of a given brand and a given model of oil are evolving, I'm warning you now.. Don't use the new diesel oils in a bike, you will be very very sorry.
Would you want to ride that suzuki 20 miles away from anyone in the winter across a river valley, over a mountain? I know I wouldn't.
Cam wear is the problem, not needle bearings.
DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES use a Group 5 automotive oil in a bike, regardless if it says rotella on it. The contents of a bottle of a given brand and a given model of oil are evolving, I'm warning you now.. Don't use the new diesel oils in a bike, you will be very very sorry.
Would you want to ride that suzuki 20 miles away from anyone in the winter across a river valley, over a mountain? I know I wouldn't.
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Yamalube 0-40 works like a charm on my 2012 WR 450 with the
recluse Zstar pro .
With what I save on fuel over running my Sled I can buy a few litres of the stuff. I have used the Rotella 15-40 in the summer for winter use its synthetic.
1 litre every 10 hours heck if I get 40 hours on it a winter I am happy.
Still also have to go sled skiing :face-icon-small-ton
recluse Zstar pro .
With what I save on fuel over running my Sled I can buy a few litres of the stuff. I have used the Rotella 15-40 in the summer for winter use its synthetic.
1 litre every 10 hours heck if I get 40 hours on it a winter I am happy.
Still also have to go sled skiing :face-icon-small-ton
The yamaha oil???? Is that the oil for the 4 st sleds?? Or the motorcylle/atv oil?
F
Kawgrn on the 570 do not run anything but a really good synthetic. The way the cyl head is positioned. It does not get as much oil to the top of the intake valve. As it does exhaust. I had some ware issues on the intake adjusting shims running the yamaha oil. I fix the shimes and ran klotz mx4 15-50. I had no more issues. I pulled it apart at the end of the season and checked it. There was no ware.
Thanks for the advise, was thinking amsoil syn 10-40, there are lots of oils but my rekluse clutch needs the right properties also,summer use was motul but hard starting when its cold, which is why Im on the hunt,thought the yamaha oil was a synthetic?
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The yamaha 0-40 is a full synthetic for snowmobile ATV and bikes.
There top of the line cold weathert oil.
There top of the line cold weathert oil.
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with the yamalube you just need to make sure to get the correct one. cause they have different viscosities, dino oil, blend, and full synthetic. For my yz, they recommended the full syn 10-40 if I remember right...
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I'll be running Rotella this season, so if anything blows up you all will be sure to know. I'll also take a look at the top end after the season just to make sure everything is looking sharp.
I also think that having the motor and oil up to temp is a huge deal. The EFI bikes are going to add fuel (without a controller) to the oil and compound the problem. I don't care what oil you have.... if you are adding fuel you are destroying it's ability to properly protect the motor. This is the #1 reason I spent the $50 on a KTM in-line thermostat.
I also think that having the motor and oil up to temp is a huge deal. The EFI bikes are going to add fuel (without a controller) to the oil and compound the problem. I don't care what oil you have.... if you are adding fuel you are destroying it's ability to properly protect the motor. This is the #1 reason I spent the $50 on a KTM in-line thermostat.
