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BULLSH** POLARIS (ELECTRIC RELAYS IN HARNESS GO BAD FROM WATER INTRUSION)

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LoudHandle

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At this point... I see the Wiring on these sleds as being the part of the sled that needs the most work !! .

MH, I completely concur with ya! When everything on the sled is electrically monitored or run, why in the HE(double Hockey sticks) would they choose to outsource the wiring harnesses to Honeywell's Chinese Division? It's like giving a Lamborgini or Ferrari a Krylon paint job. Sacrilege! Are Polaris engineers really a bunch of hillbilly rednecks or what? Or is that just the displaced mid-west Farmer mentality?


I would bet, if someone was so inclined they could make a quality harness and sell a mint of them. Use Fine strand copper wire with Arctic grade insulation (like Polar Wire makes and is well known for). Use quality connectors and components even if it requires the connectors be changed on the connecting components. Loom it properly (no electrical tape to hide their hideous workmanship).

By and Large the biggest "Issue" with the AXYS and was for the PRO Ride also.
 

Reg2view

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Eliminate the snow intake. Have you considered Frogskins and a blowhole? Worked like magic for the POS wiring harness in the pros.
 

Reg2view

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Are Polaris engineers really a bunch of hillbilly rednecks or what? Or is that just the displaced mid-west Farmer mentality?


Doubtful it's the engineers. It's the "Global Supply Chain" group. Who make almost all the vendor selection and purchasing decisions now, and negotiate all the agreements. They have much more power than engineering, because they can have a huge short-term impact on product cost. Of course, they never have to clean up the warranty mess...
 

ripnit

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At this point... I see the Wiring on these sleds as being the part of the sled that needs the most work !!

.

I shouldn't have to work on it. What makes me livid is I bought a sled with a four-year bumper to bumper warranty. Part of the reason I spent the money was I know these newer sleds have a lot of electrical sensors and what not. To be told a cover or enclosed trailer is recommended as there "fix" is not going to fly.
 

mountainhorse

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Here's some info on the relays.

Just looked into it.

If you replace one... replace all three with sealed relays.

Make sure that the relay you use also has a resistor across the coil (trigger) contacts... like the stocker (they come 3 types, resistor, diode or nothing across these contacts)

I believe that the factory relay is 15 amp... you could go up to 20, 25 or 25 amp in the same housing I believe ... and get a sealed unit.

There ARE sealed Micro-ISO relays (compared to non sealed).
Littelfuse part number would be MA-250012-RS [MA250012RS] (SEALEDSPST with Resistor).... OR... MC-250012-RS [MC250012RS](SEALED SPDT with resistor)... you can use an SPST or SPDT because, it seems, that Polaris uses a SPDT relay but configures it only as a SPST (unused terminal 87a)

Panasonic # CM1a-12v sealed 12v Micro-ISO SPDT 35-amp
http://www.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=0virtualkey0virtualkeyCM1a-12V
Spec Sheet: http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/315/cm-catalog-1075958.pdf

Cycle terminal carries Matsush!ta waterproof waterproof sealed relay.
Scroll midway down to "Sealed 12 Volt ISO Micro Relays"
http://www.cycleterminal.com/accessory-relays.html

Matsu****a-5pin-micro-relay-for-Triumph-Honda.JPG




Little fuse data on Micro-ISO relays.
http://www.littelfuse.com/products/dc-solenoids-and-relays/plug-in-relays/iso-micro-relays.aspx


ma-250012-rs.jpg


Micro-relay-pin-out.jpg



From Polaris 2016 AXYS-800 Wiring Diagram.
//www.snowest.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=278872&stc=1&d=1484240713







.









delte relay .jpg
 
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mountainhorse

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We'll ... that is the pickle eh?

Sealed and less likely issues... or not sealed and more likely issues.

Can you post up Some high resolution images of your stock relay that will clearly show markings on the case and the pin configuration?



.
 
S
Oct 4, 2016
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sooooo sad we are forced to deal with this BS! wish Polaris would just recall the harness .... don't think that's going to happen but don't let those dealers bully you keep on them and make them fix it! for me I'm going to just spend more cash and fix it. new relays and seal all the connecters backs, a spot of dielectric grease in the connecters, a little wire jacketing and zip ties. just cant understand how they failed so bad on this! if you are worried about the warranty just keep your old relays pop them in when you bring your sled in to them so they can tell you your up **** creak any ways lol
 
D

dude

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My sled has been in the shop for a week with an electrical issue. I put dielectric grease on all the fittings I could find from day one. 1700 miles in I started having issues. If I pin it WFO for a few seconds the dash display starts flickering violently and the motor goes from 8,300 RPM into some sort of limp mode that only lets if max out around 7,300 RPM. The relay contact points all look good and still have the dielectric grease in place.

Questions...
1- What does this "Load Shed Relay" do from MH's post above??
2- I see the two relays on the cross bar above the Y pipe, where is the 3rd relay?
3- Can relays like these go bad even if the contacts aren't corroded, and look good?

Thanks guys...
 

mountainhorse

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depending on the connector...Dielectric grease can cause issues of it's own... for the most part... it is good to use.... there are also different dielectric greases.

A non-sealed relay (the actual case of the relay.... not the connector)... is not good at all, if truly not sealed. A non sealed relay... even in a 'bag' with the electrical stuff... IMO... is just waiting to fail from all of the humidity and condensation that happens in these sleds from normal use.

Thats why I'd like to see some high resolution photos of the relay itself and it's markings... also to know the resistance of the stock relay between post 85 & 86.

As for the relay and ordering.... need to match, fairly closely, the resistance of the trigger coil in the relay.

As for the engineers on these sleds at Polaris... I've met them and know a few of them... they are not 'corner cutters'.... that is where production costs and the staff at Medina get in there... and reign-in the engineers and their abilities to make a great sled and fix what really is a 'fixable' issue of the sub par wiring and component integration, IMO, on these sleds.




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D

dude

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depending on the connector...Dielectric grease can cause issues of it's own... for the most part... it is good to use.... there are also different dielectric greases.

A non-sealed relay (the actual case of the relay.... not the connector)... is not good at all if true.

Thats why I'd like to see some high resolution photos of the relay itself and it's markings... also to know the resistance of the stock relay between post 85 & 86.

As for the relay and ordering.... need to match, fairly closely, the resistance of the trigger coil in the relay.


.


Interesting on the grease not being good on all connections +/-. On my sled all has been perfect from mile 0 with the grease I used and where I used it.

Anyone know what this (Load Shed Relay) responsible for?
 
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mountainhorse

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Polaris Manual:
Load shed relay supples power to high beam
LEDs, hand thumb warmers, and battery charge relay coil control and power.


The low beam LEDs are powered by the RD/WH DC
Chassis circuit and always on. When the driver pushes
the high beam button on the left hand control, the high
beam switch is closed and power from the load shed
relay (RD/DB) circuit is connected to the YE/RD high
beam circuit. This action illuminates the high beam LEDs
in the headlight.

The load shed relay is located in the protective bag
above the clutch cover.

Excludes 2015 snowmobiles.
LOAD SHED RELAY provides the following:
• High Beam Switch / LED Array Power
• Battery Charge Relay Power
• Hand Warmer Power
• Thumb Warmer Power
• The ECU will close the load shed relay when the
engine speed is greater than 1,500 RPM and chassis
voltage (RD/WH) is greater than 12.8 VDC. During
engine operation, if the engine speed falls below 1,500
RPM or chassis voltage falls below 12 VDC, the ECU
will open the relay and not close it again until engine
speed is in excess of 2,200 RPM and chassis voltage
is greater than 12.8 VDC.












...
 
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