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900 Down!

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06 RMK 900

Well-known member
Oct 20, 2008
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Mandan, North Dakota
Well my baby had a hard weekend here in West Yellowstone. First day on are last little run hit a rock and twisted up the Right A-Arm and busted up the nose plastic. Not a big deal pulled it into the shop $120 later a new A-arm and some nice duck tape.

Today after ripping out my starter rope (had to start it all day by the clutch) We found some awesome snow. Had an awesome day of pushing pow. Until I went to cross a crick bead. Was going up the one side and BAM! Hit another rock. It through me off the sled. Sorry no pictures yet. Looked under my sled and the snow was green anti freeze everywhere. Flipped in on its side and all I can see from under neath is there is a small little dent in the belly pan but the big damage is it pulled the front cooler and pused it into the track.

Was not fun getting the sled out thought we where going to have to leave it and go back in the morning. We used a buddy tow to get it out (every mountain rider should have one of these) there is no way we would have got it out without this. Long story short going to head home tomorrow morning and start taking things off to see how much damage i really have. I'm hoping my biggest problem is the front cooler not sure if the bulkhead is messed up or not.
 

guidoxpress

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Jul 13, 2008
5,105
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Wasilla, AK from MT
damn bro..thats terrible..

hope it works out for you..dot try and be like me and bust up your sweet 9 hundy..lol..

good luck on the repairs man...let us know if we can help out..
 
D
Two days ago i was riding down this hilly trail and i flew off the top of one and did like a 20 foot drop to flat hard pack!! i completely bottomed out the bulkhead hit the ground, i blew out my new fox shox (easy fix me and my dad got needle and nitro to fix!! my dad is the best one in town for fixing shox!), but the worst was that the rear swing arm snapped for the suspension in two!! and i cracked the front one buy the bottom welds, but i took some square steel stock and jammed it in there and welded it back together so its like ridden with a IQR suspension now!! I had picks but my phone is some wear on the trail!! :mad:
 

backcntryrider2000

New member
Lifetime Membership
Jan 9, 2008
30
3
8
Hanlontown Ia
ripped my heat exchanger off

The first trip out west with my 900 I went between two trees and over a rock, the rock pulled the front heat exchanger back and busted the nipple off of one side and pulled the hose off the other. It was a long trip back! These things are not fun to tow. When I got it home and fixed, I noticed that the heat exchange is very vulnerable to rocks down the middle of the bulk head so I bought a belly pan protector hoping it would cover the heat exchanger. It didn't, so I cut it so I could slide it back far enough to cover the lip of the heat exchanger. Haven't had a problem since.
 

SledGuru

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May 9, 2008
870
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43
WY 307
My 900 is down

ive only been up twice first time busted a shock and blew a belt the second time i made it 100 yards from the truck when my crankshaft went to **** ruining the primary to its curently getting repaired thought about selling it if anyone is interested 06 900 with 1400 miles one owner lots of extra's pm me if u want to know more
 
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06 RMK 900

Well-known member
Oct 20, 2008
1,621
343
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Mandan, North Dakota
Ok got the sled unloaded and took a few pictures. Me and dad have been looking at it under the sled and doesn't look to bad.

Do you all think I should pull the motor. Motor mount and bolts from what i can see everything else is still in line. I know i have to drop the track out to get the cooler in but do I have to pull the motor? What would you all do take the motor out and look at all the welds???

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This is the Plastic I broke with the first rock.

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mountainhorse

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Dec 12, 2005
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www.laketahoeconcours.com
Pull the motor... yes...

Also, when you do, switch out all the mount bolts to grade 8 and, given the impacts, age and problems of the stockers... check the motormounts (lay them over in a vise to check for tearing of the rubber) replace if necessary... also good time to clean the oil pump arm/spring, clean exhaust valves, check/replace throttle body boots etc.

Check the hose from the front of the head thermostat... to the bulkead cooler for damage.

Replace the recoil starter rope with better rope and leave the the bolt out of the recoil housing that you cant get to when the engine is in the sled.

Depending on the miles on the sled...now is a good time to replace the jackshaft bearing and the drive shaft/chaincase bearings and send your injectors for cleaning and flow checking (cheap)... I've used www.witchhunter.com They have quick turnaround if you ask them.

Check your front motor-mount cross bar carefully for cracks as well.

When was the last time your clutch was ballanced and the side clearance set for hte 321115 belt...Did you replace the clutch springs this season??? (cheap)

All of these things are easy to do with the motor out.

Lastly ... add a bottle of water wetter (redline) to the coolant when reassembling... vacuum out ALL the old coolant from the motor and coolers.
 

diamonddave

Chilly’s Mentor
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Apr 5, 2006
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Wokeville, WA.
Sweet vid. Is that what you call undesirable kill switch activation?

If yours is an 06, check the aluminum jackshaft bearing support very close. My brg, grenaded the support. Also rec replacing the lower coolant hose from the cooler to the splice going to the head as the front crossmember likes to eat into it. Brilliant move by Poo on that one.
 
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06 RMK 900

Well-known member
Oct 20, 2008
1,621
343
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35
Mandan, North Dakota
Pull the motor... yes...

Also, when you do, switch out all the mount bolts to grade 8 and, given the impacts, age and problems of the stockers... check the motormounts (lay them over in a vise to check for tearing of the rubber) replace if necessary... also good time to clean the oil pump arm/spring, clean exhaust valves, check/replace throttle body boots etc.

Check the hose from the front of the head thermostat... to the bulkead cooler for damage.

Replace the recoil starter rope with better rope and leave the the bolt out of the recoil housing that you cant get to when the engine is in the sled.

Depending on the miles on the sled...now is a good time to replace the jackshaft bearing and the drive shaft/chaincase bearings and send your injectors for cleaning and flow checking (cheap)... I've used www.witchhunter.com They have quick turnaround if you ask them.

Check your front motor-mount cross bar carefully for cracks as well.

When was the last time your clutch was ballanced and the side clearance set for hte 321115 belt...Did you replace the clutch springs this season??? (cheap)

All of these things are easy to do with the motor out.

Lastly ... add a bottle of water wetter (redline) to the coolant when reassembling... vacuum out ALL the old coolant from the motor and coolers.


Thanks Mountainhorse. I have had the motor out end of last year and did all the grade 8 bolts and checked all the mounts. Clutch was cleaned and balanced mid last season by Indy Dan and also had it set up for the 321115 belt and my riding style.

I also plan on changing all the jackshaft bearings also, Might be a good time for me to read up on gearing and change that also.

I was going to try working on the sled today but after two days in the shop at 50* there is still a bunch of snow packed under the hood. Also looks like all be doing all this my self so going to find a cherry picker to hold the motor for me so it's eisier to work on.
 
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06 RMK 900

Well-known member
Oct 20, 2008
1,621
343
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35
Mandan, North Dakota
Ok Track driver everything is out motor is hanging but I can't get the injectors disonnected. I can see there is a little metle clip on there but not sure how it comes off. Anyone have a trick to get the injectors off, or just the wire disconnected from them???
 
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ghostwhite

Well-known member
Feb 12, 2009
523
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Baghdad, Iraq
Ok Track driver everything is out motor is hanging but I can't get the injectors disonnected. I can see there is a little metle clip on there but not sure how it comes off. Anyone have a trick to get the injectors off, or just the wire disconnected from them???

you have to disconnect the wire towards the ECU, the injectors don't need to come out. The wire cannot be taken off the injector easily
 
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