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Exhaust leak-Nytro

Tuesday

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Nov 26, 2007
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Pulled the suspension out to day to get ready for the new skid and noticed a leak where the 3 go into one pipe. It cracked on the bottom side my guess is from the extreme heat and lots of cooling from the snow weakens the weld. IRC this is a fairly common problem?

Can this be welded while still in the tunnel? If I have to take it off it looks easy to unbolt from the turbo but the other 3 pipes did not look very easy to disconnect? Or is there a trick to easily disconnect them?

I definitely find these yamis a time sink every time you want to make even the smallest change. Good thing they are relatively low maintenance because they take forever to work on.

I will see if I can take a picture next time I am out.

I never did notice this while running just thought I would take a close look while the track/suspension was out. Sure enough I found a crack!

Tues
 

ruffryder

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If I have to take it off it looks easy to unbolt from the turbo but the other 3 pipes did not look very easy to disconnect? Or is there a trick to easily disconnect them?

Pull off the plastics and then the tank. Once the tank is gone, there is a plate that covers the header, should be 4 bolts. Pull these off and you will see the header. There are two mounting bolts that hold it to the top of the tunnel, and then there are the clamps for the flex tubes. It should be fairly straight forward. You might have to remove the flex tubes from the head as getting clearance to remove the header might be a problem.

When I was modifying my header, that is what I had to do. Though I was installing and uninstalling it a lot at the time.

I hope this helps.
 
W

woodies

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don't know if this is common or not but my sleds exhaust is heat wrapped, then a shield covers it. seems to work well over 2500 miles total. and chance of pictures of your tunnel dump thisledoo?
100_1274.jpg
 

Mountain Bound

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Thistledoo, do you have the tunnel dump on a stock tunnel? If so, did you make it yourself or by who. My header absolutely shattered at 2000 km's. Need new, waiting on Alpine boys, sounds like they are coming up with a stainless ceramic coated for us MCX that will last. Anybody heard anything??
 

Tuesday

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Once I am done with the skid project I will pull the tank and seat and pull the exhaust out. Sounds pretty straight forward and should be easier to weld up.
 

Tuesday

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So I am attempting at pulling the header. Pulled the seat/tank/covers loosened the 4 bolts at the turbo. Was able to loosen the 3 connectors at the flex area. Plan on dropping the skid tonight so that I can get the header out.

My question, is there enough play to let the header slide out or do I have to unbolt right at the manifold. Looking from the top it did not look like that would be an easy job. I wouldnt imagine that I have to pull the turbo?

Lastly anyone have pictures of a mountd 02 sensor on this kit. I have been thinking about adding the mcx display.

Tues
 

Tuesday

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Wrestled with the header for about 1.5 hours tonight couldnt get it to come out. Got all the bolts off but didnt seem to have much play. Spoke with a SWer tonight he said after getting everything unbolted then crack the turbo from the header and pull it down a bit. After that move the flex headers to the side and push the 3-1 header towards the engine to get it come off that gay bracket then should be able to pull the rear part of the header down and slide it out.

I will try round 2 tomorrow. I was really begining to think I may just have to weld it in the tunnel and hope for the best.

Everything on the Yammi is packed so tight......grrrrrrrrr.
 

Thistledoo

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Just take the 3 pipes off the head....replace all gaskets while your in there...the one on the head, the 3 doughnuts and fix your header. I welded mine last season and it held fine all year long. Use a mig and weld along the 3 pipes to strengthen it up some. I think with the tunnel dump it can move more causing less pressure on the header. When the muffler is out the back it cant move causing the cracks....thats my take anyhow. I even tried to flip that support bracket around so you could just slip the header out but its off set to one side abit....so no go. Just take your time and it will be fine.
 

Tuesday

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Just take the 3 pipes off the head....replace all gaskets while your in there...the one on the head, the 3 doughnuts and fix your header. I welded mine last season and it held fine all year long. Use a mig and weld along the 3 pipes to strengthen it up some. I think with the tunnel dump it can move more causing less pressure on the header. When the muffler is out the back it cant move causing the cracks....thats my take anyhow. I even tried to flip that support bracket around so you could just slip the header out but its off set to one side abit....so no go. Just take your time and it will be fine.

I looked at pulling it off the block but the bottom 3 bolts look almost impossible to get at. The top 3 are a piece of cake. So I was hoping just to get out between the header and flex pipes. I will see what happens after I get the header to come loose off the turbo. Part of the problem was that I didnt understand how that gay bracket mid tunnel was holding the header. I still have my front end of my rear skid bolted in just to make things more challenging.

TD do you have pics of your welded header?

Thanks
Tues.
 

Tuesday

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Oh ya get the skid outta there and flip the track out front....your making it alot tougher on yourself for nothing:D

Roger that! I just hate screwing with the skid if I dont have too. In the end I have made it more work probably.

Should get a chance tonight to pull the header.
 

Tuesday

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Well I beat on it for another 1 hr ish and to great disappointment I could still not get it out.

I loosened the flex hoses off the engine I could get 5 of the bolts off. The one on the lower clutch side was impossible to get loose/access. Even with those bolts out I could not free the flex pipes because everything is too tight.

I beat on the header just trying to get it loose from the turbo and it would not budge.......not even a 1 mm. I tried rethreading the top bolt and driving the 2 pieces apart, no luck. I tried hitting the pipes forward with a rubber mallet, no luck. I tried a small chissel to knock the 2 sides free, no luck. Yes all 4 bolts where out, the one turbo bolt that screws out towards the oil line was just hanging on the oil, you cant pull that bolt completely out but it was not threaded.

I think the header is semi heat siezed on the turbo therefore I could not get any wiggle room. I put most stuff back together and I may try to convience a friend to try welding it inside the tunnel. I will drop the skid and track and hopefully they can seal it up.

My guess is that if I ever need it off I am going to have to pull the turbo off so that I can break the header turbo joint then pull everything out the back.

Man I am ticked at how much time I wasted and gained nothing grrrrrrrrrrr.
 

Tuesday

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Well update on the saga. Gave it the all in try and spent 4+ hours wrestling with that beast.

Pulled the turbo, muffler brackets, charge tube and every nut and bolt I could get my hands on. Even after everything was loose and turbo was basically hanging off the header that b!tch would not crack loose for anything. I tried mallets, chisel, airchisel even, wood blocks, leverage, the bugger would not break free.

Finally after getting pissed off I was wrestling the turbo inside the tunnel and I could that my hairline crack at the 3-1 was actually much worse. So after pushing in side to side the header finally just broke off at the 3-1. Victory? Not yet as I still needed to break the header from the turbo. Again tried all the tricks and goop I had in the shop. After throwing a hissy fit I closely re-examined the junction and noticed that on one edge I could see a small gap that was no bigger then .25mm. So I got out the small screwdrivers (the ones you fix glasses with) sharpened the tip razor sharp and tapped it into the groove. To end this long story 1.5 hours later and eventually moving to bigger tips the bastard broke free.

Absolutely 100% impossible to get that off in the tunnel. If I would have had my air zip cutter I was going to have to cut the pipe but semi-luckily it broke.

The junction looked rusty/heat fit together. The muffler basically fell off when I pulled the last bolt the header was another story.

Looks like its been leaking for awhile as there where exhaust marks on the top of the tunnel.

Now to weld and put it back together. Man do I have a pile of parts laying around. Hopefully they all go back in :face-icon-small-hap


After starting this thread I guess I am the only one to ever have this problem, hope it helps someone in the future.

Time for a beer. :beer;

I will post a pic later
 
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