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08 M1000 bog and clutching question

H
Jan 15, 2016
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Good evening guys, I have a 2008 m1000 162 that is totally stock except for a Jaws cans.

I have two questions.

First, I am experiencing a deep snow bog, seems like when the snow is a couple feet deep the sled hiccups for a second, if I get off the throttle and back on she clears up. Is this due to the stock air box not flowing enough or the exhaust becoming blocked off for a second? I've done lots of reading and it seems to be a common problem. Runs great otherwise.

My sled has the stock non-updated 2008 ecu, I mostly ride around 1200ft elevation should I get it updated to the 2009 ecu? Does this solve that bog for anyone?


Secondly, I'm planning a trip in two weeks to Golden, British Columbia to do some mountain riding. Right now I have the stock clutching setup, yellow spring in the primary and 85 gram weights. I just had my primary rebuilt and new 85 gram weights put in it so I don't really want to change my weights.

Will I be able to ride at 5000-7500 feet with 85 gram weights or will the sled be a dog and not be able to rev high enough? I am not looking for a hill climb monster but I don't want to feel like I'm dragging a boat anchor also. I heard m1000 like heavy clutch weights since they are torquey.

I typically use the 060 belt so I was planning to run the 046 belt in the mountains to get that extra 200 rpms I might loose from running heavier 85 gram weights.

What do you think? Will I be okay with 85 gram weights? Or will my trip be ruined and my sled won't perform at all.

Thanks guys!
 
W
Jan 21, 2016
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South Sasky
Spend the $100 for the right weights and bring your stock can along, my brother has an 08 m1000 and his sled never ran right with jaws can, spent a lot of time trouble shooting assuming it couldn't be the can! Runs fine with stock or slp can!
 
T
Jan 24, 2015
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Sask
^^ what he said. It could very well be the can the 1000's are fussy. I had the same sled a few yrs ago with a y-pipe and d&d can. I ran 83g weights and worked fine, i tried 85g and was too heavy in BC. But I think you'll want to put in 81g. I always ran 046 belt.
 
S
Dec 7, 2007
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160
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Elkhorn NE
X2 on the right weights, also if you gain 200 rpm between belts it is probably do to slippage that is not going to give you any performance increase. Running without the proper weights the sled will take a while to get to the power band, kind of like eeeeeeeeeeeeerrrrrrrrring, The exhaust plugging bog is cured by a properly tuned motor, It is possible that the can is changing the return pulse enough so the motor is getting more fuel similar to running too large of jets if you had a carb instead of fuel injection.
 
J

jim

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2007
1,014
635
113
Boise
That sled is a bit rich on the bottom end and it can bog/load up. Put stock can back on and run either an after market Y pipe or RKT heads...but only one. Running both requires adding fuel to the top end. Running ethanol fuel also helps clean it up. Lastly, if you are going to run a stock motor, don't put 91 octane in it...that makes the bottom end and bog suffer that much more. Run around 88 octane ethanol for stock stuff.
FYI that I ran a RKT head, Y pipe, SLP airbox mod and Jaws can with fuel controller. It ripped and never bogged or missed beat...even on deep powder right hand sidehills.
 
H
Jan 15, 2016
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clutching

So you guys figure the 81 gram weights would be the correct ones to run?


Seems like a 4 gram difference is so little! But I guess it makes a big difference?


I'll take my stock can with me and switch it out after the first day of riding if I am having bogging issues out there!
 
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